McCulloch Chain Saws

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Small update. So, I have a pair of bar plates on the way that should arrive in a week or so, but until then I decided to follow another suggestion given here and took the bar and chain off to make sure that the contact surfaces between the saw and bar were as clean as could be. Sure enough, there was a small chunk of gunk near the oiler which I suppose could have prevented the bar from laying perfectly flat.
Cleaned it up real good, put everything back on and took it out for a test. As far as I could tell it was cutting straight and true along with no more chattering mid cut. Felt great.

This time I got my camera out for this quick test. The camera didn't end up handling the loudness of the saw very well, but hopefully you guys with experienced eyes and ears can tell how the saw is running from this video.


The only negative I have with the saw now is that it's a bit difficult to restart once it heats up, like after running through a tank of gas. Need to either set it in the shade for a bit or give it a lot of pulls to get going again.
 
Have you tried tuning the saw McCullochkid? Doesn't sound too bad, but I think it's got a little more in it. Set the idle so chain just barely wants to creep, then set the Low screw by leaning it for maximum chain speed, then open it in the rich direction an 1/8 turn. A correctly set Low screw should help with the hot starting. Then set high to 4 stroke slightly out of the cut.
 
McCullochKid said:
Small update. So, I have a pair of bar plates on the way that should arrive in a week or so, but until then I decided to follow another suggestion given here and took the bar and chain off to make sure that the contact surfaces between the saw and bar were as clean as could be. Sure enough, there was a small chunk of gunk near the oiler which I suppose could have prevented the bar from laying perfectly flat.
Cleaned it up real good, put everything back on and took it out for a test. As far as I could tell it was cutting straight and true along with no more chattering mid cut. Felt great.

This time I got my camera out for this quick test. The camera didn't end up handling the loudness of the saw very well, but hopefully you guys with experienced eyes and ears can tell how the saw is running from this video.


The only negative I have with the saw now is that it's a bit difficult to restart once it heats up, like after running through a tank of gas. Need to either set it in the shade for a bit or give it a lot of pulls to get going again.
Click to expand...


Feels good running grandpa's saw doesn't it? The first saw I ever touched when I was a kid was my grandfathers 110. I still have it, and it still starts and runs every time! He had a bigger mac (not sure what model 1-xx I believe) that I will always regret not taking, but it always makes me happy to run that 110.
 
McCullochKid said:
Small update. So, I have a pair of bar plates on the way that should arrive in a week or so, but until then I decided to follow another suggestion given here and took the bar and chain off to make sure that the contact surfaces between the saw and bar were as clean as could be. Sure enough, there was a small chunk of gunk near the oiler which I suppose could have prevented the bar from laying perfectly flat.
Cleaned it up real good, put everything back on and took it out for a test. As far as I could tell it was cutting straight and true along with no more chattering mid cut. Felt great.

This time I got my camera out for this quick test. The camera didn't end up handling the loudness of the saw very well, but hopefully you guys with experienced eyes and ears can tell how the saw is running from this video.


The only negative I have with the saw now is that it's a bit difficult to restart once it heats up, like after running through a tank of gas. Need to either set it in the shade for a bit or give it a lot of pulls to get going again.
Click to expand...


I'd say that's running pretty well it perhaps needs a little tweak but the hi side is pretty good. The low you can turn in till its all thin and yucky sounding before it dies. Stop there remember its position now go back out till its all fat and burbbling and dieing again. Remember its position now put the needle halfway between those points.

Set it there for a we bit idling 10 secs or so now give it a squirt of wot if it burbles n stumbles before reving its a touch rich. Try again and again until its nice and snappy but not thin and weird sounding.

Give it a minute or so and see if it loads up if its still rich it will pool a bit of gas and need clearing each time you pick it up or may even slowly die while sitting there even.

Hope this helps and not too much waffle
 
I picked up a real good and clean 82cc PM 800 today. High Compression and runs real strong. Honesty may be as strong as my one SP81, which is my go to saw. This one is almost too pretty to put in wood. Haven't even cleaned it yet in these pics, this is the way she looked when I first saw her.
FullSizeRender-1.jpgFullSizeRender.jpgFullSizeRender-2.jpgFullSizeRender-3.jpg
 
This past week I was able to teach another chainsaw safety class at work ,(3 day course) .
These students may have or not ever touched a chainsaw so the class starts very basic.
The student's parks provide the chainsaws but I always bring some spares.
This class had newer off brand orange and white saws in the 3 and 4 series. I was pretty impressed with the ease of starting for the new students but cutting seems difficult for the beginners when the saw is either bogging or slamming up against the rev limit? The sweet spot is pretty narrow?
Now I love me some "0" series saws but the looks on students faces when I cut the same log using the ProMac 700 is priceless, the effort involved in cutting is "let the saw eat" , even in 24" pine with 24" bars the 700 just walks through the log were as the new saw constantly needs pulled back from the cut or pushed . I'm not sure if it had to do with the chaims but I was running full comp and the other was running skip on their 70cc saw, so I made a few cuts with and it still was difficult for me to get it to "work/eat"
Anyway everyone swears that my yellow saw is bigger than their saw but it just works without the fuss. (Caveat, 372 hooskie users think their saw is the biggest baddest saw on eath).
 
rwoods said:
Nice early PM800. Looks like you have the significant 82cc model changes covered. Get you an early SP80 and you will have all the major differences covered other than the two piece electronic ignition. Most every other change is almost cosmetic.

Ron
Click to expand...
Tnx Ron,

I grew up around these saws. My Dad and my uncles were huge fans of the 10 series 82cc saws.I thought I knew a lot about these particular saws, the past couple years though I have come to realize there were some small differences in some models like the DC lever on the PM800. This one is a bugger to start with no DC lever but that cool. In the nutshell this one was a saw my uncle bought and went through. He called me last Sunday and said you want to buy another saw, I said maybe. Then he told me it was one of his and I said yes lol. I feel like I am stepping back in time each time I crank one of these. I have access to a couple SP81s and an 80 one of the81s is the E and I pulled the flywheel cover and she has to two piece electronic Ignition. the 80 looks to have an 850 block in it and has electronic ignition. All three have 110-120ish compression. gonna strip them and send the blocks to Bob when I have time.Sorry for the bit of rambling. I appreciate this site and folks here like you .
 
heimannm said:
View attachment 852262
Mark
Click to expand...
Is that a JD 35 or something bigger like a 50? Anyways, I got my 1-62 buttoned up but one of the ears on the block is busted so I'm leaving it alone until I don't have 15 other saws requiring attention and I know how to weld aluminum. I've got a piston for my Super 250 sitting on my desk but I have a few off-brands already torn apart that I need to finish before I open a new can of worms.
 
heimannm said:
Daniel, it is a 35. Very handy with the right man at the controls.

Today's action. Another ash tree the succumbed to the emerald ash borer.

View attachment 853226

Mark
Click to expand...
I thought it was a 35!

P.S. You can just call me Dan, Daniel usually means I’m in trouble.
 
The chain brake of my PM610 takes A LOT of force to engage so I took it apart to see if I could find anything obvious.
IMG_20200902_115400.jpg
(Oops I just noticed the clutch cover was upside down in that photo )

I cleaned everything and my "helper" managed to break the lever trying to engage it whilst it was in a vice.
IMG_20200907_091633 cropped.jpg

Luckily I had a spare lever but upon reassembling it all there isn't much improvement.
Any ideas?
IMG_20200907_091751.jpg
 
Just got this saw today, Super 250. New fuel line in the tank and a new filter and she's a runner. The clutch spring is broken. I can probably steal one off a carcass here but how does one go about getting the shoes and the spring reinstalled?
70255d04d15e30c20ff7bc616922d539.jpg


Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
Nice Kevin! I've always wanted to try a super 250....I hear they are one of the best of the 80/87cc saws.

Those clutches are no fun, I had to put one back together and oh man it was a struggle, no where near as easy as those instructions imply. Think what I did was start it in the groove and kept clamping it down with multiple vice grips as I worked my way around. It was a bugger!
 
Syncop8r said:
The chain brake of my PM610 takes A LOT of force to engage so I took it apart to see if I could find anything obvious.
(Oops I just noticed the clutch cover was upside down in that photo )

I cleaned everything and my "helper" managed to break the lever trying to engage it whilst it was in a vice.

Luckily I had a spare lever but upon reassembling it all there isn't much improvement.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Does it work freely off the saw? Does it seem like the arm itself doesn't want to move freely? Wondering if it's not pivoting correctly on that bottom screw. Or maybe the band is dragging/binding? I have a 7-10 that had worn through it's band when I got it, and when I put the new one on, went through all kinds of grief getting the band positioned where it wouldn't drag on the drum or rub on the case.
 
vizette said:
Does it work freely off the saw? Does it seem like the arm itself doesn't want to move freely? Wondering if it's not pivoting correctly on that bottom screw. Or maybe the band is dragging/binding? I have a 7-10 that had worn through it's band when I got it, and when I put the new one on, went through all kinds of grief getting the band positioned where it wouldn't drag on the drum or rub on the case.
Click to expand...
It's even harder off the saw, I guess because there is not the weight and leverage of the rest of the chainsaw to assist.
Perhaps the latch doesn't unlatch as it should. I think I got the latch and spring set up right.
 

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