McCulloch Chain Saws

[vizette]

I already have that covered. My 380 and 440 are both setup with 3/8 already.
Lil red barn sells a rim drive setup plus NOS Oregon is always around.

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Yep, I used the one for LRB on my super 250 when I was going through the same debate. Guess it depends on what your plans are, which is usually the case, right? 404 would be tougher, as MS said, but that's also a lot more chain to pull around and sprocket nose 404 isn't all that common, so you're either using a hardnose or a roller, etc. etc. I usually don't get into anything too nasty, so it made more sense (to me) to switch to 3/8. Plus... I really wanted to see that 28" Tsumura bar on that monster.

You've got a 28" bar ready, and the homelite bars should mount up without issue too, so go for it! I had a 24" Homelite on while waiting for the Tsumura and it worked well enough with no mods. Easy enough to switch back later if you change your mind.

You might need to heat and soften a small section of the spring with a torch where it broke in order to fashion a new hook. I've found this to be the case when putting a new hook on a broken recoil spring. The "inside" part is hardened and will break when putting a sharp bend in it, the hooked ends are softer. Maybe a coil clutch spring you wouldn't have to do that?

I was thinking the same thing - spring steel doesn't like to bend (somewhat ironically) unless you heat it up. Could probably salvage that spring if you had a hankerin' to.

 

[2broke2ride]

Yep, I used the one for LRB on my super 250 when I was going through the same debate. Guess it depends on what your plans are, which is usually the case, right? 404 would be tougher, as MS said, but that's also a lot more chain to pull around and sprocket nose 404 isn't all that common, so you're either using a hardnose or a roller, etc. etc. I usually don't get into anything too nasty, so it made more sense (to me) to switch to 3/8. Plus... I really wanted to see that 28" Tsumura bar on that monster.

You've got a 28" bar ready, and the homelite bars should mount up without issue too, so go for it! I had a 24" Homelite on while waiting for the Tsumura and it worked well enough with no mods. Easy enough to switch back later if you change your mind.



I was thinking the same thing - spring steel doesn't like to bend (somewhat ironically) unless you heat it up. Could probably salvage that spring if you had a hankerin' to.

Ya, I think I'm going to go the 3/8 route. I mostly just buck firewood and I keep 3/8 .050 full chisel in stock because that is what 90% of my saws are set up for.

As far as the clutch spring goes, i.already have that sorted, I just stole a good used one of one of the many carcasses laying around here.

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[JonCT]

Hello, I’m tearing into my 3-10 DSP and I took the clutch off to clean it and noticed that there is a small amount of play in the crankshaft bearing. Is this “normal” with these needle bearings or should there be no discernible play? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[sawfun]

Yep, I used the one for LRB on my super 250 when I was going through the same debate. Guess it depends on what your plans are, which is usually the case, right? 404 would be tougher, as MS said, but that's also a lot more chain to pull around and sprocket nose 404 isn't all that common, so you're either using a hardnose or a roller, etc. etc. I usually don't get into anything too nasty, so it made more sense (to me) to switch to 3/8. Plus... I really wanted to see that 28" Tsumura bar on that monster.

You've got a 28" bar ready, and the homelite bars should mount up without issue too, so go for it! I had a 24" Homelite on while waiting for the Tsumura and it worked well enough with no mods. Easy enough to switch back later if you change your mind.



I was thinking the same thing - spring steel doesn't like to bend (somewhat ironically) unless you heat it up. Could probably salvage that spring if you had a hankerin' to.

I ran a 28" rollernose .404 on my old super 250 with good results. I'm sure a 36" would have been fine but the 28" had better balance and was less of a trip over hazard. You really need to load a super 250 or 660 down hard to make the reeds really open and it "come on". A 20" bar is not enough to loax that saw and let it show you what it REALLY is all about.

 

[edju1958]

I'm just curious,the Super 250 is 87cc & the plain or regular 250 is 82cc.Does that extra 5cc make that much of a difference?Also,the 380 is 87cc,how does that compare to the Super 250?

 

[sawfun]

I'm just curious,the Super 250 is 87cc & the plain or regular 250 is 82cc.Does that extra 5cc make that much of a difference?Also,the 380 is 87cc,how does that compare to the Super 250?

The super 250 and its geardrive counterpart the 660, have superior porting over the regular 87cc saws. Consequently, they behave more like a ported saw. I believe they are the best of the frontank Mac series by a good measure. Its not the cubes as the 550 and super 550 are much larger, but while they have only a bit greater torque, they don't have that rpm scream effect of the better ported saws.

 

[Syncop8r]

Weird, it should want to jump out and lock. It's almost scary to have one "loaded" off the saw when they're operating correctly haha. I'm not personally familiar with that model, but it looks like it's pretty much the same design as any other 10 series... Should be assembled something like this:


If you loosen that bottom bolt like 1 turn (or maybe even 1/2 a turn), does it free up any?

Yep that video shows the same parts and confirms I reassembled it correctly.

I undid the pivot screw a couple of turns and it made no difference.

 

[Syncop8r]

There are two different types of brake assemblies. Mostly similar with interchangeable parts, but with differences..., the spring evidently being one according to the part numbers. Some #'s obviously changed to the six digit format between the two illustrations. Another aspect to consider may be the placement (or absence) of your washers.

View attachment 853780

View attachment 853781​

Thanks, I have those diagrams. One of my spares has the second type of chain brake shown and the other has the first type, as does my running saw.

 

[Syncop8r]

Syncop8r - I am guessing your latch is worn and doesn't allow the roller to move ahead at the brake is applied. You may have to grind or file on the latch to allow the brake mechanism to operate more freely. The challenge it you have to take it all apart to address the latch, put it together to test it, and more likely than not, repeat.

Thanks, I may try that or I might swap the latch for one off one of my parts saws.

 

[vinnywv]

Hello, I’m tearing into my 3-10 DSP and I took the clutch off to clean it and noticed that there is a small amount of play in the crankshaft bearing. Is this “normal” with these needle bearings or should there be no discernible play? Any help would be appreciated.

The crankshaft bearing is not needle bearings. There shoukd not be a noticeable play in the crankshaft. The caged needle bearing for the sprocket may have play, thats normal but not the crankshaft. If youre talking about the small caged bearing for the sprocket then a little play is normal.

 

[JonCT]

The crankshaft bearing is not needle bearings. There shoukd not be a noticeable play in the crankshaft. The needle bearing on the sprocket may have play, thats normal but not the crankshaft.

Ok thank you. Looking at the IPL the clutch side bearing appears to be a needle style bearing rather than a ball bearing. I’m probably going to tear it all the way down and rebuild it. Anyone know the best place for parts?

 

[2broke2ride]

Ok thank you. Looking at the IPL the clutch side bearing appears to be a needle style bearing rather than a ball bearing. I’m probably going to tear it all the way down and rebuild it. Anyone know the best place for parts?

Every 10 series I've ever had apart uses a needle bearing on the clutch side.
I cannot speak to whether or not a little play is normal. I've never found any amount of perceivable excessive play in any of mine.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

Looking at the IPL the clutch side bearing appears to be a needle style bearing rather than a ball bearing.

It is..., as will be the wrist pin bearings and the big end connecting rod arrangement, the latter being free floating needles that will need to be accounted for on disassembly/assembly. The clutch bearing will be pretty obvious. The only ball bearing on the saw will be the flywheel side crank bearing.

Shouldn't be any axial slop.

(Vinny must be thinking "off-brand" in his response. LOL)

 

[vinnywv]

Ha ha, i was stuck on clutch sprocket bearing. Im also at work so im "busy" and not always focused on everything properly. So yes, i was wrong...the needle bearings inside the sleeve are in question. Not the flywheel ball or sprocket caged bearing. My apologies to everyone. Still should not be much play in them. Just not thinking. Im allowed one mistake per hr,,,ask my wife..

 

[vinnywv]

It is..., as will be the wrist pin bearings and the big end connecting rod arrangement, the latter being free floating needles that will need to be accounted for on disassembly/assembly. The clutch bearing will be pretty obvious. The only ball bearing on the saw will be the flywheel side crank bearing.

Shouldn't be any axial slop.

(Vinny must be thinking "off-brand" in his response. LOL)

Off brand???

 

[vinnywv]

I just added a sp60 to the fleet. Good runner. Fixed high jet carb has been replaced with a sdc 37. Much better. Very clean. So heres the story...bought this awhile ago and it was a little beat up. Rear shroud was crap. Had spark and would pop a bit. So after searching for a rear shroud to no avail i decided that i could make one. Took the rear shroud from a 10-10 and the top cover from a sp80/81 and made my covers. All i needed to do was cut the 10-10 shroud a bit to fit to the sp81 top cover, drill one hole for the screw and bingo. Perfect fit!! So for anyone who doesnt have one the sp60 and sp70 both have a unique top cover/rear shroud all in one. With that they only utilize 2 starter cover screws(long ones) instead of three. The one by the pull handle is not used. Well on this saw it is now due to my sp80 cover. I also had to find an entire muffler. Original was rotted out bad. This saw does run well and has a great piston and cylinder.....i DID KEEP the point condenser ignition. Surprisingly enough. It worked so why mess with it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Off brand???

Was simply providing you with a disclaimer for your annual mistake.

 

[vinnywv]

Was simply providing you with a disclaimer for your annual mistake.

Lol, thats one per hour not year.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I just added a sp60 to the fleet. Good runner. Fixed high jet carb has been replaced with a sdc 37. Much better. Very clean. So heres the story...bought this awhile ago and it was a little beat up. Rear shroud was crap. Had spark and would pop a bit. So after searching for a rear shroud to no avail i decided that i could make one. Took the rear shroud from a 10-10 and the top cover from a sp80/81 and made my covers. All i needed to do was cut the 10-10 shroud a bit to fit to the sp81 top cover, drill one hole for the screw and bingo. Perfect fit!! So for anyone who doesnt have one the sp60 and sp70 both have a unique top cover/rear shroud all in one. With that they only utilize 2 starter cover screws(long ones) instead of three. The one by the pull handle is not used. Well on this saw it is now due to my sp80 cover. I also had to find an entire muffler. Original was rotted out bad. This saw does run well and has a great piston and cylinder.....i DID KEEP the point condenser ignition. Surprisingly enough. It worked so why mess with it. View attachment 854122View attachment 854123View attachment 854121

Looks great, Mark could hook you up with a chip cover.

 

[vinnywv]

Looks great, Mark could hook you up with a chip cover.

Im gonna hit him up for a few actually when i get a chance.