McCulloch Chain Saws

[vizette]

It's even harder off the saw, I guess because there is not the weight and leverage of the rest of the chainsaw to assist.
Perhaps the latch doesn't unlatch as it should. I think I got the latch and spring set up right.

Weird, it should want to jump out and lock. It's almost scary to have one "loaded" off the saw when they're operating correctly haha. I'm not personally familiar with that model, but it looks like it's pretty much the same design as any other 10 series... Should be assembled something like this:


If you loosen that bottom bolt like 1 turn (or maybe even 1/2 a turn), does it free up any?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

There are two different types of brake assemblies. Mostly similar with interchangeable parts, but with differences..., the spring evidently being one according to the part numbers. Some #'s obviously changed to the six digit format between the two illustrations. Another aspect to consider may be the placement (or absence) of your washers.

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[2broke2ride]

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Nice Kevin! I've always wanted to try a super 250....I hear they are one of the best of the 80/87cc saws.

Those clutches are no fun, I had to put one back together and oh man it was a struggle, no where near as easy as those instructions imply. Think what I did was start it in the groove and kept clamping it down with multiple vice grips as I worked my way around. It was a bugger!

Good info!!! Any chance of hooking the ends of this spring together and reusing it?

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[mogulmasher]

Not sure I understand question. I hooked the spring together and reinstalled that end first. If I didn't put it in the channel first it would constantly unhook and blow everything apart.

 

[2broke2ride]

Not sure I understand question. I hooked the spring together and reinstalled that end first. If I didn't put it in the channel first it would constantly unhook and blow everything apart.

The spring is broken, the hook broke off the end, I was wondering if anyone thought I could hook it back into itself and have it work ok.

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[mogulmasher]

If you could figure out how to rehook it don't see it being a problem.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If going to the trouble to replace the spring, I'd use a new one myself. Cobbling it together would likely have you back at it again sooner than later..., if it didn't just break again anyway trying to fit it. Why even chance it?

 

[2broke2ride]

If going to the trouble to replace the spring, I'd use a new one myself. Cobbling it together would likely have you back at it again sooner than later..., if it didn't just break again anyway trying to fit it. Why even chance it?

Ya, makes sense lol, sometimes being cheap is my worst enemy lol.

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[2broke2ride]

I swapped the spring with a good used from another carcass here, I didn't really find it that hard. It was harder to take the spring out of the good clutch. I would have just used the whole thing but it was a thread on one not keyed. I don't have any spare keyed clutches here.

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[2broke2ride]

It runs really good, but the chain is at the end. I sharpened it the best I could but there are at least 6 broken off cutters all on one side.
Does 74 drive links .404 sound right for this bar? That's what I count.

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[heimannm]

Syncop8r - I am guessing your latch is worn and doesn't allow the roller to move ahead at the brake is applied. You may have to grind or file on the latch to allow the brake mechanism to operate more freely. The challenge it you have to take it all apart to address the latch, put it together to test it, and more likely than not, repeat.

Kevin - you spring is broken and will have to be replaced. Frank Bierce passed along a tool that we believe was put together to assist in putting the spring on a clutch but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.





Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Syncop8r - I am guessing your latch is worn and doesn't allow the roller to move ahead at the brake is applied. You may have to grind or file on the latch to allow the brake mechanism to operate more freely. The challenge it you have to take it all apart to address the latch, put it together to test it, and more likely than not, repeat.

Kevin - you spring is broken and will have to be replaced. Frank Bierce passed along a tool that we believe was put together to assist in putting the spring on a clutch but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

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Mark

That thing is very clever yet soo simple

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

It runs really good, but the chain is at the end. I sharpened it the best I could but there are at least 6 broken off cutters all on one side.
Does 74 drive links .404 sound right for this bar? That's what I count.

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I made some .404 loops for some McCulloch 24" Oregon bars and 75 dl was good but I could squeeze 74 on. That being said they are modern sprocket nose bars.

 

[heimannm]

The old hard nose bars I have all used 77 DL.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

I am realtively certain I counted 74, so I suppose that is what I will go with. This is a narrower profile bar than the old school hardnose beaver tail bars on my other front tank saws.

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[2broke2ride]

It runs really good, but the chain is at the end. I sharpened it the best I could but there are at least 6 broken off cutters all on one side.
Does 74 drive links .404 sound right for this bar? That's what I count.

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Now I'm wondering if my money would be better spent swapping to a 3/8 sprocket. It would cost a little less than the .404 chain but I have an unused 28 inch Mac bar that's been modified to fit a large frame as well as a couple 24 inch Homelite bars that should fit with little if any modification.

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[edju1958]

Now I'm wondering if my money would be better spent swapping to a 3/8 sprocket. It would cost a little less than the .404 chain but I have an unused 28 inch Mac bar that's been modified to fit a large frame as well as a couple 24 inch Homelite bars that should fit with little if any modification.

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You might have a problem finding a 3/8 sprocket to fit,but if anyone would have one it'd be Bob J.or Mark H.

 

[2broke2ride]

You might have a problem finding a 3/8 sprocket to fit,but if anyone would have one it'd be Bob J.or Mark H.

I already have that covered. My 380 and 440 are both setup with 3/8 already.
Lil red barn sells a rim drive setup plus NOS Oregon is always around.

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[Maintenance supervisor]

Now I'm wondering if my money would be better spent swapping to a 3/8 sprocket. It would cost a little less than the .404 chain but I have an unused 28 inch Mac bar that's been modified to fit a large frame as well as a couple 24 inch Homelite bars that should fit with little if any modification.

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Wait a minute your talking about cost savings and old chainsaws??!!
Seriously though if you don't have a good variety of bars to dedicate to one saw or another it might be better to have one chain size.
I have chain sizes all over the place but thats what makes it fun for me , using some of the old saws with the original chain is part of the hobby side of it for me.( except lp 3/8ths)
I'm not sure if 3/8ths is cheaper then
. 404 though?, the loops I've made for stump cutting are noticeably tougher than the 3/8s . The one on my 36" bar for the 1050 Homie has seen rocks,dirt,and nails and I'm not even half way through the tooth. Application might want to be your deciding factor.

 

[MacAttack]

The spring is broken, the hook broke off the end, I was wondering if anyone thought I could hook it back into itself and have it work ok.

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You might need to heat and soften a small section of the spring with a torch where it broke in order to fashion a new hook. I've found this to be the case when putting a new hook on a broken recoil spring. The "inside" part is hardened and will break when putting a sharp bend in it, the hooked ends are softer. Maybe a coil clutch spring you wouldn't have to do that?