McCulloch Chain Saws

[flatsfisher]

Thanks for the help!

I removed the welch plugs, snap ring, and two screens. There was no rubber disc. The Brass part in the new kit looks different. Mine has a hole in the middle. Should the brass part be removed? It seems like it is seated pretty well.

Edit: Does the brass part in the kit already have the screen and snap ring installed?

hey Bruce. yes, the brass piece in the kit has the screen and ring installed. when you install the new one, make sure you tap it down just below the hole that the carb adjust needle goes through. if you're too high the needle will hit the brass when you install it.

this is the tool I used to get the old brass ring out of mine. it's just an old awl type tool I bent the tip on years ago for a purpose I can no longer remember. I just put the tip under the brass and used leverage to gently rock it loose. I think I lifted it a little and moved it to the other side and rocked it. it came out pretty easily. I was also told you can turn an easy-out into them and pull them out.

on my SDC there was nothing to install under the other, larger welch plug.

I'm not an expert but just did the same thing you're doing, and my saw is running great.

 

[flatsfisher]

here's my old one before I removed it.

 

[flatsfisher]

 

[flatsfisher]

my theory is that the old rubber flap in mine was dissolved by the previous owner(s) using fuel with ethanol. either that or they wear out from flapping up and down a million times.

 

[flatsfisher]

Thanks for the help!

I removed the welch plugs, snap ring, and two screens. There was no rubber disc. The Brass part in the new kit looks different. Mine has a hole in the middle. Should the brass part be removed? It seems like it is seated pretty well.

Edit: Does the brass part in the kit already have the screen and snap ring installed?

to my knowledge there should only be 1 screen.

 

[vinnywv]

Those adjustment needles look just fine. Thats how they are.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thanks for the help!

I removed the welch plugs, snap ring, and two screens. There was no rubber disc. The Brass part in the new kit looks different. Mine has a hole in the middle. Should the brass part be removed? It seems like it is seated pretty well.

Edit: Does the brass part in the kit already have the screen and snap ring installed?

I use a blunted drywall screw to pry it out ,but I also strip the carburetor down and bake it at 250 for an hour in the oven on a peice of tin foil. The insert and aluminum have different heat ranges ,so it helps me anyway.

 

[Syncop8r]

Maybe I should just fly the core of the forum in here to help finish it for me!

I'm keen...

 

[Poodle_Bruce]

This forum is awesome!

Thank you for helping a guy out!

Time to order more parts. Hopefully my last bits. I used a bit more force and got the old part out, and now I can wait for the new check valve...

 

[Syncop8r]

I use a bit of greese to hold the rod needle bearings in place while I assemble. Some two stroke oil on the rings. Mark H has turned me on to Dirko HT to seal the blocks. I have to agree its good stuff.

I've put together a couple saws with Yamabond 4 , no failures as of yet. That being said plenty of McCulloch saws are put together with regular old clear sealer from the old days.

I'm just going to use this... because it was the cheapest on the shelf, and why shouldn't it work?

 

[edju1958]

I've got bad news & good news.First the bad news - whoever owned the last PM55 I acquired should be horsewhipped & then shot.I tried putting a plug in it only to find out that the moron made the plug hole so oversized that a plug won't fit.I ended up stripping the saw down for parts.They oversized just about anything they could,the handle where it mounts on the bottom of the saw was redrilled & oversized bolts put in.On the muffler they drilled holes through the cylinder shield & put longer screws through the muffler & cylinder shield & then double nutted it.Talk about a PITA to get them loose,especially when they're lock nuts.The coil is pretty much toast,the bozo put tape around the coil to hold the plug wire in instead of just replacing the lead.Probably explains why it had intermittent spark.I had to use a small pipe wrench to break the fuel cap loose.They must've been in the oil tank too because the allen screw was in the place of the regular screw that holds the auto oil pump in & the regual screw was in place of the allen screw that holds the tank handle onto the engine/oil tank.

Now the good news - I pulled the tank handle off the 2nd PM 55 to see why the oiler rod was binding.Apparently the oiler rod was not sitting in the groove under the tank handle,from what I could discern.Usually I twist the rod sideways a bit so I can lift the tank higher & have better visuals on it.Normally it seats back to the original position,but not this time.It still wanted to bind a hair,but as I worked the button it works fine now.All I need to do now is put the carb back on.Oh yeah,after I got it all back together I checked for spark & didn't have any.I tried another plug & had great spark.I looked at the 1st plug & saw it had a bunch of crud in between the electrode.I cleaned it out & had spark again.

 

[Syncop8r]

The four internal bolts are missing the (aluminium?) washers.

 

[knightmax]

The four internal bolts are missing the (aluminium?) washers.
View attachment 1030084

They are rubber O rings. Some dont replace them. I do if they are missing and put a small dab of sealant on them.

 

[vinnywv]

Yes originally they used very thin aluminum washers that would crush when torqued. Then they went to rubber orings or washers. Ive had good success with both o-rings and ive made small rubber washers. They squish out when tightening the bolts down. Usually a pair of needle nose pliers takes care of the excess.
111025- washer sealing aluminum (4)

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I use Holley fuel bowl gaskets on the bolts.

 

[Syncop8r]

See, these are the little hiccups I need help with.
Thanks guys!

 

[knightmax]

See, these are the little hiccups I need help with.
Thanks guys!

No worries! Its how we all learn.

 

[edju1958]

Something I forgot to mention earlier about the PM55 (#3).I have a good short block,only thing is 2 out of 3 of the muffler bosses need helicoils.Instead of using helicoils,could I just put JB Weld in the bosses & then put the muffler on with the bolts in?One boss is walowed out so badly that I doubt a helicoil would work.What size helicoils do I need?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Something I forgot to mention earlier about the PM55 (#3).I have a good short block,only thing is 2 out of 3 of the muffler bosses need helicoils.Instead of using helicoils,could I just put JB Weld in the bosses & then put the muffler on with the bolts in?One boss is walowed out so badly that I doubt a helicoil would work.What size helicoils do I need?

Jb weld will absolutely not hold Ed, I even tried the extreme heat one with extra metal in it. I think the heat+ vibration makes it fail pretty quickly.

 

[edju1958]

Thanks Ira.Now I need to know the thread size & pitch of the one bolt that I can helicoil.I guess the other boss that's wallowed out badly I'll have to see if I can put a larger size bolt in it.