McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Oh. I wasn't going to do that. I don't have the gasket.
If I can get this saw going I would like to repaint it one day so would leave such things until then.

I was going to put the piston, crank and block together first. Just trying to get some bits of old carb gasket off first. The small bearing comes off easily, perhaps I should put some grease on the inside? Then a little oil on the piston/rings as it goes in then RTV the block halves and bolts.
Did you buy my gasket set ?
I'm gonna be putting up a special set for the 10-10
The best sealer from tests is Hondabond
From youtube guy
Oh. I wasn't going to do that. I don't have the gasket.
If I can get this saw going I would like to repaint it one day so would leave such things until then.

I was going to put the piston, crank and block together first. Just trying to get some bits of old carb gasket off first. The small bearing comes off easily, perhaps I should put some grease on the inside? Then a little oil on the piston/rings as it goes in then RTV the block halves and bolts.
PM me mate! I'll send you some goodies
 
Oh. I wasn't going to do that. I don't have the gasket.
If I can get this saw going I would like to repaint it one day so would leave such things until then.

I was going to put the piston, crank and block together first. Just trying to get some bits of old carb gasket off first. The small bearing comes off easily, perhaps I should put some grease on the inside? Then a little oil on the piston/rings as it goes in then RTV the block halves and bolts.
I use a bit of greese to hold the rod needle bearings in place while I assemble. Some two stroke oil on the rings. Mark H has turned me on to Dirko HT to seal the blocks. I have to agree its good stuff.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2022-11-05 at 6.58.50 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2022-11-05 at 6.58.50 AM.png
    1.2 MB
I've put together a couple saws with Yamabond 4 , no failures as of yet. That being said plenty of McCulloch saws are put together with regular old clear sealer from the old days.
This is what uncle has used for decades. I got saws here with it on them for 30 years he built. Still going. I just researched the Dirko after Mark mentioned it. Its being used OEM for Stihl, I just wanted better, best, bestest lol. Sometimes I forget the if it ain't broke don't fix it saying.

On a side note...If you post about using Dirko HT on Facebook a couple guys will scream at you that the saw will blow up. apparently if its red is terrible stuff. Non red good, red bad. thats all I could get from the two guys after explaining about Dirko. I added this note because they reminded me of a saying James and I started a few years back. "Some people are to stupid to own chainsaws". Why I love the forum above all other places. None of the kinda BS here. Just knowledge, advice, collaboration , and a desire to help and learn. All good stuff.

Uncles Sealer.JPG
 
isn't there something about baking coils that can bring them back to functioning?

Baking a coil is:
Not good for a permanent reliable repair.

The coil (magneto) has moisture inside and this creates a path for arc over internally and the arc over will usually leave a carbon trail.
You are just doing a temporary fix. (Rube Goldberg category)

Kinda in same category as peeing into the wind.
 
Howdy!

I got my 10-10 carburetor taken apart and somebody has been in here before me. There were flip flopped gaskets and I found some damage to an adjustment pin.

I first cleaned the carb without full disassembly. The saw will run but bogs really badly. I have to adjust the low speed two rotations for it to run rich and then I can't get it to idle. Clearly something is wrong.

Here is picture of the two adjustment screws. I am assuming the high speed pin should have a nice clean end and not a partial hole and unevenly ground end?
IMG_20221105_095436523_HDR (1).jpg
Is this a part i can find?

Should there be a mesh screen in the larger welch plug hole?
IMG_20221105_100044043_HDR (1).jpg
I do have one in the kit, but the carb was missing this part.

I also found that under the tiny snap ring, the old screen and replacement were still in the carb.

Thanks for the help!
 
both of those holes should have welch plugs. the one with the brass part should have a rubber disc at the bottom that looks missing. it is the check valve. it is def missing the screen and circlip. a carb kit will have new welch plugs but for the check valve you need this kit.
PXL_20221021_185326777.jpg
 
both of those holes should have welch plugs. the one with the brass part should have a rubber disc at the bottom that looks missing. it is the check valve. it is def missing the screen and circlip. a carb kit will have new welch plugs but for the check valve you need this kit.
Thanks for the help!

I removed the welch plugs, snap ring, and two screens. There was no rubber disc. The Brass part in the new kit looks different. Mine has a hole in the middle. Should the brass part be removed? It seems like it is seated pretty well.

Edit: Does the brass part in the kit already have the screen and snap ring installed?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top