McCulloch Chain Saws

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Back to Macs.....Last night I was scrolling through Feebay looking at Mac saws & found this little gem,an Eager Beaver 2.1 less the bar & chain.The seller was asking $21.95 or MO.I offered $18 & he accepted.It's supposed to have good compression & spark.
I have a 2.1 here that I bought about 5 yrs.ago.It runs like a champ,but has had oiler issues from day one.I replaced the oil line & the auto-oiler pump,all to no avail.
Hopefully this new 2.1 will be a good little runner.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374334216810
 
Your forgiven but what about that poor saw?
Agreed some are good as an an anchor
Could never get it to run right even after several rebuilds. Lot to do with living at 7000 ft, but even lower had issues. Great when it ran right. Think it was the 360? Not sure as that was a second ago and alot of brain cells from living that 80s life style, lol.
 
I should start putting this back together to see if it will run... but I'm going to need help and encouragement. 😬
Yes you should. Plenty of knowledge and help here that will assist.
Nothing like that feeling of accomplishment after successfully putting your first saw back together from a box of parts.

Recommended first step. Sperate the fuel tank, replace gasket, fuel line, and fuel filter. Seal the gasket, and line where it goes through the tank with Seal All. Be a shame to put it back together and the tank leak.

Max
 
Recommended first step. Separate the fuel tank, replace gasket, fuel line, and fuel filter. Seal the gasket, and line where it goes through the tank with Seal All. Be a shame to put it back together and the tank leak.
Oh. I wasn't going to do that. I don't have the gasket.
If I can get this saw going I would like to repaint it one day so would leave such things until then.

I was going to put the piston, crank and block together first. Just trying to get some bits of old carb gasket off first. The small bearing comes off easily, perhaps I should put some grease on the inside? Then a little oil on the piston/rings as it goes in then RTV the block halves and bolts.
 
Little grease wont hurt. A lot could be a future issue. Oil the cylinder and piston. I use light oil. Smear with my fingers. The rtv...a pretty thin coat is all thats needed. I do both halves thin. Bearing areas too. Then put the 4 larger bolts in. Tighten them up. Then i put the 4 little bolts in. Snug them up gently. Theres not much surface area there. Then i add parts accordingly. Typically ill put the points and flywheel on and check for spark. Then once i have spark i add the rest
 
Not yet. I got my tank seals.from traverse creek today and it finally stopped seeping gas. It runs and oils and i will try it tomorrow. So what jethro referrs to....a few moons ago i got a pm700 engine off ebay. Had a scratch on the piston. The seller accepted my 75 dollar offer and i put a new piston in it. Ive had a 2-10 for several years now that ran well but i have a 70cc engine sitting and boy do they run better than the 54cc engines.....get where im going??
I took it apart and put all the peices onto the pm700 engine. So ive got a right hand start pm700. Weighs in at 17lbs with a 20" bar and chain on it. For comparison my pm700 weighs 19.5 lbs with a 16" bar and chain. Its a points saw from the 2-10 and flywheel, clutch, tank, etc. Pm700 rear shroud for the decomp. Oil pump from a parts oil tank, both manual and auto pumps, carb is an sdc37, but i used the adjustment needles and extensions from the sdc 2 on the 2-10. The air filter cover is just yellow, no stickers. It also has a dual key way crankshaft that actually was on a 7-10 i think. So it worked very well going together. Snappy and not heavy. My 6-10 for instance weighs 16.5 lbs. Its very light and nimble. But has an 18 inch bar and .325 chain. So it was a fun project that is complete. On to the next project..

Might just be a homelite for another fella. I didnt forget you ed.
 
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