I disagree with that statement wholeheartedly.There's a guy in Oregon who uses only a rattle can on his saws & those he does for others as well & he does a fantastic job & the paint holds up extremely well.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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decades of rebuilding and refurbishing machinery and motorcycles tells me otherwise.
I see your point, however more professional finishes are beyond my capabilities, especially with regard to cost.
So it's a choice between a spray job or nothing.
Hopefully you'll get some answers from those with experience using that paint type. It would be nice to know if it's a decent option that is affordable and within reach of the avg person. One thing about restoring something really old like these saws are is that it's bad enough if NLA parts poop the bed so to speak but if you put on some expensive paint,time, and effort then you add up the loss.
I did some paintwork on a Remington using Rustoleum Automotive paint and primer then baking the small parts in an old toaster oven. I did it because the paint was mostly nonexistent on the saw. Looks garage shelf worthy....probably not living room shelf worthy.
Anyway, maybe you'll get some feedback on the question and another option becomes available.
I hear ya. been there. but, if you paint more than a few things over years it will pay to get a good used spray gun if you have access to a compressor. don't need a big compressor for painting. the paint is actually less expensive by the pint or quart and is better quality. the cost per ounce for rattle can paint is stupid over time. I've used cans of paint to do multiple projects, sometimes months to years apart. plus, it's fun to learn a new skill.
I don't have a compressor or access to one, it's on the list to buy one day when I'm rich and have a workshop. 
At this stage it's really just the one saw that could do with some paint, there's not a lot left on it.
At this stage it's really just the one saw that could do with some paint, there's not a lot left on it.
Why not go out & buy a can of spray paint & practice on an old piece of metal?You'l;l only be out a few bucks for the paint & who knows,you may be happy with the results.Obviously everyone here has their own opinion & that's great.I sure as heck don't want to get into a pissin' match over a paint job,life's too short.I don't have a compressor or access to one, it's on the list to buy one day when I'm rich and have a workshop.
At this stage it's really just the one saw that could do with some paint, there's not a lot left on it.
I got my Mac 650 in the mail today & was quite satisfied at the condition it's in.It doesn't look like it's had a lot of use.The seller said that it'd probably need to have the carb gone through.I've found that most folks don't know how to start an old Mac by using the primer.First thing I did was pull the fuel line out only to find that there was no filter on the end of it.I put a filter on & some fuel in the tank & tried starting it.It'd run on a prime,but then quit.I then checked the needles to find they were way out of whack (I should've done that to begin with).I put more fuel in the tank & primed the carb twice,the primer doesn't work.After the 2nd prime it was running beautifully.It ran so dang good that when I went to shut it off it just kept running.I tried to choke it out by covering the air intake on the carb,but there must've been just enough air getting by to keep it running.I thought about pulling the fuel line out of the tank,but don't like it when the saw leans out.Finally I turned the idle screw out so that it couldn't idle anymore.I pulled the recoil off to find there was no wire going from the switch to the coil.I had an old point to coil wire from the 450 on hand & it fit the bill.
This saw is a beast at 87cc & gear drive.I'm not sure what pitch the sprocket is.Maybe someone can tell by the pic? I hope it's not a 7/16 or 1/2.
Edit:I just looked at the IPL & it looks like the 650 & 660 came with 1/2 in.sprockets.I hope Mac made a .404 sprocket for these saws.
This saw is a beast at 87cc & gear drive.I'm not sure what pitch the sprocket is.Maybe someone can tell by the pic? I hope it's not a 7/16 or 1/2.
Edit:I just looked at the IPL & it looks like the 650 & 660 came with 1/2 in.sprockets.I hope Mac made a .404 sprocket for these saws.
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Ed - PM sent.
I put the SP105 back together and found a nice 32" hardnose bar that someone (Brian Gilman?) had cleaned up and repainted. I failed to take any photos while it was on the bench but here are a few in the display.
I'm not sure why but the wrap handles on the 105's were normally painted black. This one still has the frame protectors (cushions) at the bottom of the handle.
As you can probably tell even in photos, someone had done some repainting and the colors didn't match exactly. Upon close examination you may also notice some "non standard" fasteners on the starter and flywheel housings. I debated installing some inserts and using OEM type hardware but decided to keep it as I received it. I did replace the broken perforated steel sawdust guard with one of my 3D printed ones.
I had used this saw a few times for actual firewood harvesting and it starts, runs, and oils very well. That said, I do have another SP105 that is not quite as nice that I can use as needed so it was time to put one into the display. This one has some interesting history (sold in Belgium).
Mark
I put the SP105 back together and found a nice 32" hardnose bar that someone (Brian Gilman?) had cleaned up and repainted. I failed to take any photos while it was on the bench but here are a few in the display.
I'm not sure why but the wrap handles on the 105's were normally painted black. This one still has the frame protectors (cushions) at the bottom of the handle.
As you can probably tell even in photos, someone had done some repainting and the colors didn't match exactly. Upon close examination you may also notice some "non standard" fasteners on the starter and flywheel housings. I debated installing some inserts and using OEM type hardware but decided to keep it as I received it. I did replace the broken perforated steel sawdust guard with one of my 3D printed ones.
I had used this saw a few times for actual firewood harvesting and it starts, runs, and oils very well. That said, I do have another SP105 that is not quite as nice that I can use as needed so it was time to put one into the display. This one has some interesting history (sold in Belgium).
Mark
IIRC,Bob J.told me that an F014 mount bar would work on the big frame saws.I have a 30 in.Carlton F014 that I got from Bob last summer.Anyone know how many DL it will need?
Mac report from down south
Had taken some shorter ugly ones out before the big girl. Limbs hanging them up so had to pick carefully.
81 going well although not auto oiling much all of a sudden. Needs a carb kit too it starts to go a little lean nose down
Sp70 also went well but also needs a carb kit. It goes rich at idle after about 10 seconds but otherwise yeah very happy.
More next Saturday. Get half the wood and 500 bucks. Pretty cheap but I enjoy it. Getting paid to play with my saws. How good
Had taken some shorter ugly ones out before the big girl. Limbs hanging them up so had to pick carefully.
81 going well although not auto oiling much all of a sudden. Needs a carb kit too it starts to go a little lean nose down
Sp70 also went well but also needs a carb kit. It goes rich at idle after about 10 seconds but otherwise yeah very happy.
More next Saturday. Get half the wood and 500 bucks. Pretty cheap but I enjoy it. Getting paid to play with my saws. How good
As far as using a spray can goes I've used automotive paint for engine blocks and farm and fleet paint. They seam to hold up the best.
Degreasing and prep work is going to lead to the best results though, if you part isn't perfectly clean the paint is not going to hold.
Ace hardware has a very good farm paint .
Ed- nice going on the gear drive. Runs pretty good in the video you sent. Looks like mark has ya covered on the sprocket.
Paintwise-ive used rattlebomb before with good results. It does nothold up great with fuel. Otherwise its fine. Preparation is key. Send us picrures when its done.
Paintwise-ive used rattlebomb before with good results. It does nothold up great with fuel. Otherwise its fine. Preparation is key. Send us picrures when its done.
Jethro,I hate to tell ya this my friend,but it sounds to me like your 81 & CP70 are in need of crank seals.The saws are having classic symptoms of bad seals.To verify,you can do the "tip test",which is not entirely scientific,but generally holds true.When your saw is running at idle,tip the saw from side to side & front down & then rear handle down.If the saw changes speed as in a lean or rich condition it's a dead giveaway that it needs seals.Chances are you don't need carb work.
Jethro,I hate to tell you this,but it sounds to me more like your saws are in need of crank seals more than a carb kit.You can do a "tip test" which isn't 100% scientific,but it'll give you a good idea as to what's going on.When your saw is running at idle,tip it on it's side,then the other side.Also tip it bar down & bar up.If it changes idle speeds like a lean out or a bog down,or just dies,it usually a dead giveaway that they need seals.
I took the cover off the 650 muffler & as I suspected there was no baffle.Looking at the IPL becomes a bit confusing,Mac gives 3 different part #s for the baffle - # 51968,or # 61545A,or # 69326.From what I can figure,whoever had the saw had option #2 for the muffler,lost or eliminated the top cover,& then used the baffle as a cover/spark arrestor.Maybe someone here can shed some light on this?
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Funny thing is a heap of times similar thing is been cured with a carb rebuild.
Certainly could do with crank seals too but yeah they are saws I've not done the carbs on yet and probably should
Well,a carb rebuild can't hurt anything.Seems to me that I read it somewhere,or saw it on a video that it was suggested that we pull our carbs off every year to clean them & put fresh diaphragms in.Seems kinda overkill IMO.
Yeah bugger that.
Sounds baffling.
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