McCulloch Chain Saws

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The SP70 sounds like the needle might not be sealing properly in the carb. Hard to make a bet for the 81.
Yeah you could of nailed it. Runs well idles spot on for 5 or 10 seconds then loads up n dies. If I tune it to idle its then boggy n lean the rest of the time.

Could indeed be crank seals on 81 but will try carb first. Really is due for a rebuild but I can't afford it at the moment. Mrs due in 2 weeks

My mate has a mint 850 sitting there with my name on it and considering bolting the 81 around it. I prefer the weight of the 81 over the 850 but be sad to dismember a perfectly good 850 even if more financially viable
 
Ed - Back a few posts...I have two McCulloch branded 30" bars, one black w/yellow and one silver w/black. The black one requires 94 DL of .404, the silver one 93 DL of .404. Go figure...

What you have in the 650 is the spark arrester screen that would have been installed inside the muffler to permit the saw to be operated on federal lands.

Mark
 
...My mate has a mint 850 sitting there with my name on it and considering bolting the 81 around it. I prefer the weight of the 81 over the 850 but be sad to dismember a perfectly good 850 even if more financially viable
Get the 850 and put the 81 on a shelf to be rebuilt later (if required). I couldn't pull down a running 850 for the sake if a conversion.
 
A few questions for the Rust-oleum club:

Is 2X the product you use?
If so, does this cope with the heat that chainsaws generate?
Is it suitable for the block as well as the outer parts?
Since it is a paint + primer, do you not bother with a separate primer first?
Do you apply a clear coat on top?
Is anyone able to give me some answers?
 
Is anyone able to give me some answers?
I have used the 2X rattle cans. They will work ok. The yellows will not match either McCulloch yellow exactly. After waiting applying a Professional two sage clear coat (you can get them in rattle cans at an auto body paint supply they have an activator which once introduced needs used in 24 hours) is necessary. If you don't uses a profession two stage clear coat the Rust 2X will not hold up to fuel spillage. DO NOT paint the block/cylinder with it. It will not hold up to the heat and will flake off.

As as been said before Preprep. is crucial. If you don't get the surface degreased and clean the paint will never adhere and in time bubble and flakes.

All that said, here are a few images of a PM55 I restored last summer using rattle cans made for me by a auto paint and supply company with professional grade automotive paint, with the pre-mentioned professional clear coat. I had close to 80 hours in that saw. And why I don't work on saws for others lol.

Mac PM 55 Repaint 1.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 2.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 3.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 4.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 5.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 6.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 7.jpgMac PM 55 Repaint 8.jpg
 
I know this has been covered recentl;y,& Jeff & Brian are the main contributors of the flat back carb kits,but I'm in need of a few COMPLETE carb kits that include the pump diaphragms.I noticed that the kits that are made by Joe DiSilva at Sugar Creek don't have the pump diaphragms either.What's a guy supposed to do when the pump diaphragms are as hard as plywood?
 
I have the pump diaphragm laid out and cut but material is $200 a square yard including shipping.
I made some but the material was questionable so I pulled them off eBay.
I need to sell a lot of diaphragm's to make that up.

Buttttt ! I have some new parts coming out once testing is done and I may remake them with new material different source as the other pump (3-25) uses the same material.
soooo stay tuned :surprised3::surprised3::surprised3::surprised3::surprised3::surprised3:

Metering diaphragm kit for 3-25 diaphragm with rivets you repair yourself (new rivet design)
check valves and pumps also
 

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I know this has been covered recentl;y,& Jeff & Brian are the main contributors of the flat back carb kits,but I'm in need of a few COMPLETE carb kits that include the pump diaphragms.I noticed that the kits that are made by Joe DiSilva at Sugar Creek don't have the pump diaphragms either.What's a guy supposed to do when the pump diaphragms are as hard as plywood?
see above 👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👆
ps I have to clean and realign the laser as holes are a little out of round. Don't hammer me to hard !!! 🔨🔨🔨🔨
 
Finally got the 10-10S back together. Between saws and parts I thought retirement was slower paced !!🤣
Retirement isn't quite what people think it is.I've been "retired" for almost 30 yrs.& the only time I'm sitting around on my keister is when I'm recovering after surgery.Even then I try to find something light to do.
 
Mark,it wasn't quite clear to me as to how to pull the case off the 450.I pulled all the bolts out & it doesn't move at all.I'm afraid of doing something wrong & breaking it.
 
The case fits in snug in the block, supports the crank bearing and has a gasket face, so it will be too tight to pull off by hand, but they come off easy with a puller as Mark posted previously. Have you had a puller on it?

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How it fits into the block:

s-l1600.jpg
 
The case fits in snug in the block, supports the crank bearing and has a gasket face, so it will be too tight to pull off by hand, but they come off easy with a puller as Mark posted previously. Have you had a puller on it?

776422-fcaba603d4f8dacbcea32731c3edc110.data
No Matt,I don't have that style of a puller.I have a gear puller & a bearing puller,but not like that one.I think that style puller is called a steering wheel puller.
 
That's a bummer. I have seen people tap them off, but I don't recommend it (puller supports the crank and bearings). I have only ever pulled them off with a puller. The set I use is a steering wheel puller set.
 

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