McCulloch Chain Saws

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De 80

Mark. thanks for your comments. I found a real nice DE80 on CL - now sold. It got me thinking whether or not I should keep mine for my "go to" saw instead of the PM800. I have a PM8200 which is outwardly similar to the PM800 but the piston, crank and rod are different (PM8200 has a three piece crank) - seems odd to me that the internals are shared between the DE80 and PM800 but not the tank, carb and the intake while the tanks and intakes of the PM800 and PM8200 appear to be shared although there must be some external cylinder difference as the intake shroud is different - I would have thought the DE80 would have had the internal changes too. Ron
 
Macs

I have a few Macs that I bought at flea markets to sell on ebay...problem is I love to run them and really don't want to sell them. Someone told me a long time ago to not try to make money selling merchandise that you like.... Buy and sell merchandise that you don't have an attachment to.
 
Pro Mac 55 question

I just picked up a PM55 and some various 10-10 models all in pretty good condition.According to Mike Acre's site, the PM55 has a chrome plated cylinder,is that right?I'm thinking about restoring it to use as a back-up firewood saw and that would be a plus.Thanks, D.Brown:clap:
 
I just picked up a PM55 and some various 10-10 models all in pretty good condition.According to Mike Acre's site, the PM55 has a chrome plated cylinder,is that right?I'm thinking about restoring it to use as a back-up firewood saw and that would be a plus.Thanks, D.Brown:clap:

I think all the Macs do, if I'm not mistaken..I have a 55 also, picked up this summer, has a 24" bar. I think I gave $20 for it, and it runs! It's another one I bought to re-sell but probably end up keeping it for the collection.
 
http://austin.craigslist.org/grd/2115150622.html

Figure i would post up this ad. Is that a good deal for a 250?

It might need some work, but those saws ae built like a tank.

Where else are you going to get an 80cc+ saw that has gobs of torque for 35 bucks.

I have a 1-43, which is basically the same saw. I like to cut with it, but it weighs 25-30 lbs. If I'm cutting wood thats already down I don't mind, the extra weight helps the saw thru the wood. I bucked a whole load of red oak with it last week. It was a hell of a lot of fun.

The saw is capable of running every day, nearly bulletproof.

CT
 
I think all the Macs do, if I'm not mistaken..I have a 55 also, picked up this summer, has a 24" bar. I think I gave $20 for it, and it runs! It's another one I bought to re-sell but probably end up keeping it for the collection.

Most of the older McCullochs (including most of the X-10 series) have a boreable iron cylinder liner. My ProMac 10-10 (a later model 10-10 with a chainbrake) still has an iron liner. The PM55 is for the most part a ProMac 10-10 with a chrome plated bore and electronic ignition.

It is... I paid $40 bucks for a 250 that was a "parts saw". I cleaned the tank out... dumped fresh fuel in, and it fired up on about the 6th pull.

I'd buy that one... :)

Gary

I agree. I'd buy that 250 for $35 (or less if I could talk him down) and pass on the mini-mac. I was extremely lucky with both of my 250 Macs. Cliff just about gave my Super to me, and the 'standard' 250 came with my ProMac 10-10 and a crusty-but-complete McCulloch 35.................all three for $20 from a guy that answered my local CL ad. I also spent a few minutes getting his Homelite SXL-Auto to run while I was there. The Super needs rings, seals, and bearings at the least. Piston looks good through the port, but the ring gap is HUGE, compression is low, and there's some "clunking" from within when I pull it through fast. Nothing broken or missing (other than the starter screen).

The 'standard' 250 (in the $20 three saw set) fired up and ran on its own with a flush out and prime. Needs a carb kit and a new AF cover (broken but useable). It has a funky 15" cut-length Remington roller nose on it at the moment...:D

The PM 10-10 just needed a good cleaning, a flush out, and a prime for it to be running fine. Still needs a CB handle and spring. Probably will replace the CC (for now) with a non-CB cover from an older X-10. The 35 will be a parts donor for my 35A...:cheers:
 
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Got a question! I bought a rim sprocket off of ebay, Oregon 10624, same as the one on my 797. When I got it did not have a bearing in it, and didnt think it would be a problem. Seems that the hub has a smaller inside diameter than the others so the bearings that I have with the rest are to large to go in. Can I replace the inside hub with the right one? It looks brand new and may have already been replaced. Or is there another bearing that will work? If so anybody know what kind I would be looking for? Got a growing collection of saws that I am slowly trying to convert to rim sprocket.

Trying to drill it out to fit the bearing would probably just end up in destroying it, wouldnt it? As it is now I cant use it, and I dont know what it will fit.
 
Crankshaft endplay in E.B. 2014 & 3516

I got another 2014 and a 3516 in the pile of saws last month. Noticed right away they have a lot of crank endplay like the 2014 I raised from the dead.

Like a 1/16"!!! good grief gertie.

Is this just they way it is for cranks running in roller or needle bearings? I wouldn't expect any measurable endplay in radail ball bearing cranks.

Poulan tophandles have lots of crank endplay also I noticed.
 
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I'm working on a Power Mac 6 and made a list of the parts I need.
Randy Duncan would probably have everything I but he's pretty hard to get a hold of.

Anyone know of another good one-stop-shop?

Thanks
 
Listen up MC-10 based Mac lovers. Super 44A/55A, 1-70/80 through 1-72/82. Here's an IPL for the stroker kit.

http://rearenginekarts.com/MC10POWERIPL.PDF

This actually sparks a question I have about this particular engine, but I may save it for a new thread concerning the kart engines where the McCulloch, Power Products, West Bend, and Homelite kart engines can be discussed.
 
Did some searching for info on that a little while ago. All I could come up with is Mac Bobs sight. Have you seen them for sale anywhere?
 
Not yet. Been looking though. I'd like to find 1 or 2. All I can find so far is spacer plates for the stuffer/oil tank to clear the bigger crank.
 
I think I may have found a piston for mine on ebay. Just need to make sure I dont have to bore it. Gonna try cleaning up the cylinder tomorrow and see if a standard size will work. I would like to get a hold of the stroker kit though. Gonna have to do some more searching.
 
Got a question! I bought a rim sprocket off of ebay, Oregon 10624, same as the one on my 797. When I got it did not have a bearing in it, and didnt think it would be a problem. Seems that the hub has a smaller inside diameter than the others so the bearings that I have with the rest are to large to go in. Can I replace the inside hub with the right on? It looks brand new and may have already been replaced. Or is there another bearing that will work? If so anybody know what kind I would be looking for? Got a growing collection of saws that I am slowly trying to convert to rim sprocket.

What are going to put it on? Is there something in there you need to drive
out, like a spacer or race. If your putting it on a 250 it show a different part
number in the Oregon book #10608
 
What are going to put it on? Is there something in there you need to drive
out, like a spacer or race. If your putting it on a 250 it show a different part
number in the Oregon book #10608

It does almost look like there is still a race in there, but i was not able to drive anything out. And I am afraid to dry using a dremel, if it is not a race. I was working under the assumption that all the large frame Macs, use the same clutch. That being said, this one the inside dia., is still smaller then the one on my 797. If I can get a chance to take some photos I will get some up of both side by side. It would be nice if there is a race in there that just needs to be pushed out.
 

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