McCulloch Chain Saws

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Since you mentioned it, I have a couple of old 10-10 chainsaws that have ugly looking wires as well. I was wondering if the wires are replaceable on them, or would I have to replace the whole works?

It's been years since I had to replace a plug wire but arn't they retained by a skinny treaded stud at the center of hole where the plug wire goes. I remember digging crumbleing insulation out and just screwing a new wire onto/into the coil. Used solid core wire if i remember right.
 
It's been years since I had to replace a plug wire but arn't they retained by a skinny treaded stud at the center of hole where the plug wire goes. I remember digging crumbleing insulation out and just screwing a new wire onto/into the coil. Used solid core wire if i remember right.

I replaced one on a Stihl 011 like that last summer but didn't remember if the Macs of mine were made that way or not. If they are, it would be great!

Got any pics of the '67?
 
I replaced one on a Stihl 011 like that last summer but didn't remember if the Macs of mine were made that way or not. If they are, it would be great!

Got any pics of the '67?

I'll be doing the same thing on an 011AV tomorrow. Looking at some of my Mac IPL's (PM1010, 33/35/39, 250), the McCulloch plug wires are replaceable just like with the Stihl and many other saws (with the 'wood screw' stud in the coil body). In practice (as Mark has mentioned) it can be a bit trying....:cheers:
 
Got any pics of the '67?

View attachment 171989


He He He. Not what you expected I bet.

On a side note; I had solid core plug wires on my '53 Ford PU w/'57 Desoto hemi. You could hear my ignition on everyone's radio if it was playing at stop lights. Pull in my friend's driveway and his TV would near blow a gasket.
 
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View attachment 171989


He He He. Not what you expected I bet.

On a side note; I had solid core plug wires on my '53 Ford PU w/'57 Desoto hemi. You could hear my ignition on everyone's radio if it was playing at stop lights. Pull in my friend's driveway and his TV would near blow a gasket.

You're correct, it wasn't what I expected but I'll bet it cleans up well. (the car I mean). I don't run my '85 much any more, it just takes up space in the garage along with a bunch of other stuff.
 
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You're correct, it wasn't what I expected but I'll bet it cleans up well. (the car I mean). I don't run my '85 much any more, it just takes up space in the garage along with a bunch of other stuff.

What are you thinking?!?! Start driving it, and no granny shifting and slow acceleration either! In my 1985 VW, (yes, 5 speed) I drive it so hard my older brother is scared of riding in the car with me. :D Slip the clutch a little until I feel the car starting to roll, slip it a little more, and then drop it, launch well, and no squealing, so no reason for a cop to pull me over. :) After I'm hauling the mail and shift into second, I'm long gone. People that think they drive fast are in my rearview mirror. :) Of course, you're Vette would own my Cabriolet. That is, until I dropped a 350 HP 1.8 in it. :) (got a parts car with a rebuildable engine, so that is a keeper) I'll build it myself, I don't trust anyone else to smear their fingerprints all over the crank bearings. :) Drive your beautiful car and drive it like a car is supposed to be driven. Trust me, it's much more fun driving around hauling the mail instead of puttering around in some boringly quiet family sedan.
 
What are you thinking?!?! Start driving it, and no granny shifting and slow acceleration either! In my 1985 VW, (yes, 5 speed) I drive it so hard my older brother is scared of riding in the car with me. :D Slip the clutch a little until I feel the car starting to roll, slip it a little more, and then drop it, launch well, and no squealing, so no reason for a cop to pull me over. :) After I'm hauling the mail and shift into second, I'm long gone. People that think they drive fast are in my rearview mirror. :) Of course, you're Vette would own my Cabriolet. That is, until I dropped a 350 HP 1.8 in it. :) (got a parts car with a rebuildable engine, so that is a keeper) I'll build it myself, I don't trust anyone else to smear their fingerprints all over the crank bearings. :) Drive your beautiful car and drive it like a car is supposed to be driven. Trust me, it's much more fun driving around hauling the mail instead of puttering around in some boringly quiet family sedan.

Actually, I usually drive around in a boringly quiet family S-10. But I'll take your advice some this summer.
 
Actually, I usually drive around in a boringly quiet family S-10. But I'll take your advice some this summer.

Oh, I stand corrected. S-10's are okay, but does it go somewhat fast and is it somewhat loud? :) I bet your Vette is raring for some fluid changes and being driven. :cheers:
 
Oh, I stand corrected. S-10's are okay, but does it go somewhat fast and is it somewhat loud? :) I bet your Vette is raring for some fluid changes and being driven. :cheers:

My truck is neither. It is a 4cyl. auto. I also have a '04 Cavalier which gets me around when it's snowing, which is pretty often. I don't have insurance on the Vette right now because I don't drive it in winter. I heard they don't do too well in snow and ice. I had to make some concessions to the economic downturn so I sold my ZRX1100 bike last fall. That was something that was itching to run!
 
My truck is neither. It is a 4cyl. auto. I also have a '04 Cavalier which gets me around when it's snowing, which is pretty often. I don't have insurance on the Vette right now because I don't drive it in winter. I heard they don't do too well in snow and ice. I had to make some concessions to the economic downturn so I sold my ZRX1100 bike last fall. That was something that was itching to run!

Yeah, most RWD cars do not do well in the winter. My 84 Maxima is excellent though, as the power is there, but it isn't too much. Skinny tires help too, I can drive this car up the driveway when it's drifted over with 1.5 feet of snow. No running start, either. :)

My VW is also an excellent winter car, but since it's only seen one winter and is 99.8% rust free (South Carolina car) I don't drive it during winters.

The parts Cabby I picked up was driven in the winter, it had a really well done undecoating done on it though, poor car was in mint condition until a lady made a left turn in front of it. Well, if that didn't happen, I wouldn't have a bunch of good interior and other parts for mine. $350 bought that parts car.

Engine, trans and even the windsheild were all in good usable shape after a 35 mph collision. BTW, the kid driving the Cabby only got a couple of bruises, and the lady driving the Mercury Sable went to the hospital. She was wearing her seatbelt at the time of the accident. Both of the airbags went off in her car. What does that tell you? I still think these electronic nannies are why there are so many accidents now. People don't know how to drive.

Sucks you had to sell that bike, I still miss my TT-R 125L, even though I was getting a little big for it, lol. I went 65 mph on several times. It really liked the Royal Purple oil too. :)
 
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View attachment 171989


He He He. Not what you expected I bet.

On a side note; I had solid core plug wires on my '53 Ford PU w/'57 Desoto hemi. You could hear my ignition on everyone's radio if it was playing at stop lights. Pull in my friend's driveway and his TV would near blow a gasket.


I hauled my first buck home in the back of my 89 ex-CHP 5.0LX Mustang. Took up ALL of the room back there. Had 'em gutted and drained/cooled/wiped out as best I could. Still had the head/rack, legs/feet, hide, and ticks on 'em. Covered the interior with a tarp. Folded and bent the sucker around a bit just so I could get the doors closed. Only had to drive about 10 miles from my buddy's ranch. Managed to only get one drop of blood on the interior (back of a cloth seat). Stain stayed there until I sold the car more than five years later!

Can a Mac 250 be converted to auto oiler if it's manual only? I know the super 250s were auto oiler but where any of the regular 250s?

Looking at the IPL's for the Super 250 (1970) and standard 250, I saw that the fuel/oil tank is the same part #'s between the Super and the non AO 250. My august 1965 dated McCulloch 250 IPL (non-AO) shows a gasket and blockoff plate (called a "pulse pump plate") covering the pad and ports for the non-installed auto oiler pump assembly on the fuel tank. The "pulse pump plate" could be replaced with an auto oiler pump assembly. The gaskets for the blockoff plate and the pump are the same # between IPL's.

Interestingly, the crankcase bottoms (stuffers) and the fuel tank/stuffer gaskets are different part numbers between the two IPL's. I don't know if the non-AO standard 250 stuffer has the impulse pasage in it. If not, you'd have to either swap in a stuffer and gasket for/from an AO equipped front tank Mac (such as a Super 250 or a 300) or modify your parts with an impulse passage to power the pump. The oil tanks are also different part numbers between the two IPL's, but the oil tank gaskets are the same. I'll bet the non-AO oil tank probably would need a hole drilled somewhere.

I imagine the best way to make a manual-only 'regular' 250 auto/manual would be to just swap over a whole stuffer and oil/fuel tank assembly from an AO front tank saw. If you want to compare the IPL's yourself, PM me your email addy and I'll send 'em to you Rick. Hey wait a minute.............................what are you doin' over here in the Yellow Fever section???:popcorn:
 
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Can a Mac 250 be converted to auto oiler if it's manual only? I know the super 250s where auto oiler but where any of the regular 250s?

You would need to swap the stuffer, and fuel tank. The auto oiler pump sits in the fuel tank and a 250 tank doesnt have the passeges for the pump. The stuffer could be drilled if you know where to put the hole.
 
Well just got home with the saw in it's case with matching bar guard. I opened the case and it was almost new looking with just a few scratches and all stickers in great condition. He stated it has not been started in 10 years or so I like new projects like this in the winter and this old saw looks . Model of saw states Pro 10-10. Thanks for all the great info on the spec's for this saw Mr H. Not the great photo person on this site but I seem to do fine on a email if anyone would like a photo.

Check your PM box for my email. You can send me the pics and I will post them for you.

Well here is a photo of the saw. Looks good to me.

1-3.jpg
 
100_4146.JPG


Unlike that beauty of a 10-10, this 640 has a bit more 'character.' I'm not sure what they cut with this thing but it created a sticky mess: pine? Anyhow, they left gas in it for who-knows-how-long so I pulled the upper half of the tank.

Any suggestions on removing the ruined tarry sticky mess that used to be a gasket without scarring up the face??
 
100_4146.JPG


Unlike that beauty of a 10-10, this 640 has a bit more 'character.' I'm not sure what they cut with this thing but it created a sticky mess: pine? Anyhow, they left gas in it for who-knows-how-long so I pulled the upper half of the tank.

Any suggestions on removing the ruined tarry sticky mess that used to be a gasket without scarring up the face??

I used this... worked well for the valve cover gasket stuck on the valve cover. (84 Maxima) original gasket with 170,000 miles likes to stay put, lol. Took some time, but still less than scraping and trying to do so without scratching anything, which you will scratch something, lol.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_removers/auto_Permatex_Low_VOC_Gasket_Remover.htm

However, do not listen to the part where it says the gasket will come off in 20 minutes, that's only for the Permatex products listed. It will take a bit longer with any other gaskets. I'd imagine it is safe to use on magnesium cases, but I hope someone else has more ideas of what to use or whether the stuff I put a link up to is okay to use.
 
Gasket and varnish removal

One of the easiest, and least expensive methods I've used to do this type of clean-up is spray-on oven cleaner. It softens the gaskets so that with a Plastic scraper (orange ones from Harbor Freight work great) they come right off. May require a second application to soak in but try it and you'll like it. The oven cleaner is a lot cheaper than the commercial gasket remover sprays, and as an added bonus you can get the oven cleaner in "lemon scent" so the wife will even aprove! LOL!:hmm3grin2orange:
 
What are you thinking?! Trust me, it's much more fun driving around hauling the mail instead of puttering around in some boringly quiet family sedan.

Promac - Hey, I resemble that remark! However that "family sedan" in my case is a late 60's, large displacement "beer burner & ricer" eater! The old addage, "there's no replacement for displacement" comes to mind.
Lots of the younger "hot rodders" have never rebuilt a carburetor, let alone gapped a set of points, so they also have no clue what ignition timing relative to piston speed is all about and have therefore never truly earned their wings!
It's one of the great things about these old Macs: simplicity, durability, and displacement!
Don't get me wrong, electronics has worked wonders for us, but displacement rules when it comes to making torque, which is what gets the work done.
And, when you know the old stuff, and how it works, the new stuff is easy.

Oh btw, the "family sedan" is a '69 Galaxie XLGT - 429cid 4bbl, C6, 9"
Arrr, Arrr, Arrr!
 

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