McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

If the saw runs good in the cut, not lean, and then dies after making the cut, it's probably too rich on the low side. This could also make the saw hard to start after the engine is hot, but easy to start at first when the engine is cold. It could be vapor locking, but I doubt it because most of the 10 series gas caps are old and leak anyway.

Hmm, both start easy when cold. Standard routine: trigger set, choke full, couple pulls, first pop, choke off, one pull and it fires up.

700 is not vapor locking then, it is like Old Faithful - shoots a stream of gas several inches high - a real fire hazard. As I previously have said I'm pretty ignorant and but for this site I would have no MACs because they wouldn't run and there is no longer anyone around here that will work on them. Thanks, Ron

 

[rwoods]

Why would it be just a show off toy? Are you comparing it to a regular SP125 or a modern saw? If you are comparing it to a modern saw, I understand, but it should be able to do everything a regular 125 can do, but with more power.

There were quite a few Kart powered 125s in the woods, they ate trees on a daily basis. I didn't need one, had a souped up 797.

The only "big" stuff around here that I would cut with any regularity is hardwood in the 3 to 4 foot range. I would like to use the kart saw where it will stand apart from the 125 and from my reading that wouldn't be with long bars. From my limited experience my PM800s will outcut my 125 until around 24". I don't know the breaking point between a 125 and a 101. I would certainly like to use the 101since it has an iron sleeve and should be rebuildable more times than a chrome lined cylinder - and it should be a blast to run.

My further thought of the 28" bar had to do with bucking the 24" to 32" stuff. As you know contrary to all the "it weighs too much" discussions among firewood cutters on other threads, bucking with a heavy saw on clear flat gound is easier than with a light saw. It was a good 10 hours Thursday before I even picked up the 125. It was almost like taking a break as I bucked the largest tree of the day. Of course if I had lugged a 125 up and down the road banks all day and through the brush, I wouldn't have still been standing.

I'm open to all suggestions and will try to adapt the same to my cutting environment.

Ron

PS to Randy. Don't shoot me over the Mini Mac comment. I would never send you one. I just thought the thought would be a better way to get your attention.

 

[RandyMac]

"Ron

PS to Randy. Don't shoot me over the Mini Mac comment. I would never send you one. I just thought the thought would be a better way to get your attention."

Go forth and fear no evil.


Thierry wanted advice, he got irrelevancies instead.

There is frost today, clear as a bell, not a hint of a breeze, even the Pacific is quiet. A rare day for us.

 

[1375619cm3]

sproket size vs bar size on a 250

i have a nice running Mac 250 (thanks to the guys on this site that have answered every question i have ever had) it has a 7 pin sproket same as my 1-51 and i was wondering what size chain that it should be running on a 31" bar? the acres site says that the 1-51 will handle that size bar and so will the 250 is this correct? i have recently purchased a 31" new mac bar off bbay and should be arriving soon. i have quite a few trees that need to be dropped and the 31" bar will be perfect for them due to their size. do i need to change sprokets for this size bar or will the 7 pin work? what size chain? style? (design) i do not know much about differant chain styles/designs as i have always just ran skip tooth on my 20 husky 61 rancher for firewood and been real happy with it. most wood around my area that i have acces to any bigger than 20" in diameter is usally maple or cherry normally never oak or harder stuff than that as people just hire loggers in to to buy the timber than i get the tops. sorry for the run away thought.... ok back to my original question... what size sproket and chain should i be running on that 31" bar on my 250 or 1-51?
thanks in advance

I do a lot of reading on here and normally do not post many thoughts back due to my novice state of mind once i read others question because i do not want to lead anyone astray, i am here reading constantly and the wife to be says i have yellow fever, i just laugh because she is probably right thanks to all of you that gave it to me, i think that this is the one time that i can enjoy being sick. lol

 

[Ambull]

The only "big" stuff around here that I would cut with any regularity is hardwood in the 3 to 4 foot range. I would like to use the kart saw where it will stand apart from the 125 and from my reading that wouldn't be with long bars. From my limited experience my PM800s will outcut my 125 until around 24". I don't know the breaking point between a 125 and a 101. I would certainly like to use the 101since it has an iron sleeve and should be rebuildable more times than a chrome lined cylinder - and it should be a blast to run.

My further thought of the 28" bar had to do with bucking the 24" to 32" stuff. As you know contrary to all the "it weighs too much" discussions among firewood cutters on other threads, bucking with a heavy saw on clear flat gound is easier than with a light saw. It was a good 10 hours Thursday before I even picked up the 125. It was almost like taking a break as I bucked the largest tree of the day. Of course if I had lugged a 125 up and down the road banks all day and through the brush, I wouldn't have still been standing.

I'm open to all suggestions and will try to adapt the same to my cutting environment.

Ron

PS to Randy. Don't shoot me over the Mini Mac comment. I would never send you one. I just thought the thought would be a better way to get your attention.

The 101 should beat the 125 with any bar. It has more torque, more horsepower, and it generates more chain speed. On the long bars these saws seem to really take to the 404 semi-skip chain, and the 101 definitely has more grunt than the 125.

 

[dieselsmoke]

i have a nice running Mac 250 (thanks to the guys on this site that have answered every question i have ever had) it has a 7 pin sproket same as my 1-51 and i was wondering what size chain that it should be running on a 31" bar? the acres site says that the 1-51 will handle that size bar and so will the 250 is this correct? i have recently purchased a 31" new mac bar off bbay and should be arriving soon. i have quite a few trees that need to be dropped and the 31" bar will be perfect for them due to their size. do i need to change sprokets for this size bar or will the 7 pin work? what size chain? style? (design) i do not know much about differant chain styles/designs as i have always just ran skip tooth on my 20 husky 61 rancher for firewood and been real happy with it. most wood around my area that i have acces to any bigger than 20" in diameter is usally maple or cherry normally never oak or harder stuff than that as people just hire loggers in to to buy the timber than i get the tops. sorry for the run away thought.... ok back to my original question... what size sproket and chain should i be running on that 31" bar on my 250 or 1-51?
thanks in advance

I do a lot of reading on here and normally do not post many thoughts back due to my novice state of mind once i read others question because i do not want to lead anyone astray, i am here reading constantly and the wife to be says i have yellow fever, i just laugh because she is probably right thanks to all of you that gave it to me, i think that this is the one time that i can enjoy being sick. lol

You better get the bar first and measure the width of the slot, Old school Mac bars were generally .058" wide. New bars come in .050", .058", and .063". You have to match the chain to the bar. Your 250 runs .404 pitch chain, and a 7 pin sproket, a good combo for firewood slaying, after all your not gonna win any speed races with the old mac. They pull good, with alot of torque, but are not super fast. Keep the chain sharp and out of the dirt, use that saw in the big stuff and your lighter modern saw for limbing and the hard to reach stuff. Oh yeah you never said if your new bar is a sproket tip or not? Again you gotta match the chain to the spec. of the bar.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

"Ron

PS to Randy. Don't shoot me over the Mini Mac comment. I would never send you one. I just thought the thought would be a better way to get your attention."

Go forth and fear no evil.


Thierry wanted advice, he got irrelevancies instead.

There is frost today, clear as a bell, not a hint of a breeze, even the Pacific is quiet. A rare day for us.

Emperor,

You still did offer some advice, which I appreciate. I also got a quick lesson in the depth and breadth of the RandyMac school of thought and vocabulary grab bag.

'twas one of the finer moments of my morning.

There is much to learn from you, chainsaws notwithstanding.

Chris

 

[RandyMac]

I get wordy in the dead of night.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

I get wordy in the dead of night.

I had just woken up. The dead of night must be prime time for you.



Chris

 

[RandyMac]

I spend a lot of time there.

 

[1375619cm3]

You better get the bar first and measure the width of the slot, Old school Mac bars were generally .058" wide. New bars come in .050", .058", and .063". You have to match the chain to the bar. Your 250 runs .404 pitch chain, and a 7 pin sproket, a good combo for firewood slaying, after all your not gonna win any speed races with the old mac. They pull good, with alot of torque, but are not super fast. Keep the chain sharp and out of the dirt, use that saw in the big stuff and your lighter modern saw for limbing and the hard to reach stuff. Oh yeah you never said if your new bar is a sproket tip or not? Again you gotta match the chain to the spec. of the bar.

Ok thanks for the advice will wait and see it should be here this week sometime and it is a solid nose would have rather had a sproket nose but for the price i didnt think it was bad and i am only planning on using it when i got to drop a larger tree... thanks for the advice.

so if the 7 pin rim is good for firewood cutting and what not, what advantages and disadvantages do you have by going up or down to 6,8,9,10 sproket rims?

 

[RandyMac]

An 8 pin is not out of line for a 20" bar. I have a 5 cube Homelite with that set-up, full comp 3/8" chain works well.

 

[promac850]

Ok thanks for the advice will wait and see it should be here this week sometime and it is a solid nose would have rather had a sproket nose but for the price i didnt think it was bad and i am only planning on using it when i got to drop a larger tree... thanks for the advice.

so if the 7 pin rim is good for firewood cutting and what not, what advantages and disadvantages do you have by going up or down to 6,8,9,10 sproket rims?

Think of it as the gearing of a kart... if you have the 6 pin, the chain will not be loading down the engine that much, but also, the chain speed will be lower than if you ran a bigger size, like the 7 pin. A ten pin, as CPR said, needs a saw with a lotta nuts to pull a larger bar.

Your 250 should be 80cc, my 850 is 82cc, I'm running a 28" bar full comp chisel chain and it cuts well with the 7 pin. Wanted to try the 8 pin, but the chain wouldn't fit over the rim.

I, from my limited experience, think your 250 should do okay with the 7 pin rim with your new 31" bar and full comp chain. If you notice the saw struggling in the cut, go down to the 6 pin.

You could do 'firewood' cutting with a 9 pin on that saw, but you'd be running a 10" bar at max. The bigger the rim, the more chain speed you have, but you lose torque as a tradeoff.

Hope I helped.

 

[1375619cm3]

Think of it as the gearing of a kart... if you have the 6 pin, the chain will not be loading down the engine that much, but also, the chain speed will be lower than if you ran a bigger size, like the 7 pin. A ten pin, as CPR said, needs a saw with a lotta nuts to pull a larger bar.

Your 250 should be 80cc, my 850 is 82cc, I'm running a 28" bar full comp chisel chain and it cuts well with the 7 pin. Wanted to try the 8 pin, but the chain wouldn't fit over the rim.

I, from my limited experience, think your 250 should do okay with the 7 pin rim with your new 31" bar and full comp chain. If you notice the saw struggling in the cut, go down to the 6 pin.

You could do 'firewood' cutting with a 9 pin on that saw, but you'd be running a 10" bar at max. The bigger the rim, the more chain speed you have, but you lose torque as a tradeoff.

Hope I helped.

well that makes a heck of a lot more sense to me now i understand gearing in trucks n tractors and stuff and to put pin sizes into that train of thought works good for me thanks for the explanation.

 

[1375619cm3]

there is a mac 3216 w/ a 16" bar that runs good in my dads area for $50 does anybody know if it is a worthy mac or is it a bad plastic saw after the real mac era? i am looking at acres site now but do not see any info and was wondering if anyone knows anything about them mi was thinking it might be a good light limbing saw.

 

[cpr]

If it comes down to it, on the 101 motor, I know a guy, who knows a guy who...................

Should this arrangement ultimately collapse, the well I pulled my other one from is far from dry...

 

[promac850]

well that makes a heck of a lot more sense to me now i understand gearing in trucks n tractors and stuff and to put pin sizes into that train of thought works good for me thanks for the explanation.

No problem.


-----------------------------------------------

Something I forgot to mention in my above post is that I found the problem of the 850's weird running style... the fuel line split, letting the fuel filter drop off into the bottom of the tank.

Obviously, the fuel line floats... there's the lean/perfect/lean problem... it seems that fuel sloshing around allowed the carb to get the fuel it needed for a good mixture, but as soon as the fuel stopped sloshing around the tank, it would go lean.

I am going to take a picture of it and send it to the guy that I bought it from on feebay. We'll see how it goes from there. I suspect the guy will send a new fuel line, as it was only about three months old before splitting. wtf? Maybe there was a defect, like a bubble or something that made a weak spot for the split to start.

I don't think the carb got a bunch of crud in it, as the fuel line was floating on the top, but I've been wrong before.

 

[heimannm]

137 - In addition to number of teeth, you also have to think about pitch. A 7 tooth .404 sprocket is as or bigger than an 8 tooth 3/8" sprocket, and the .404 chain cuts a wider kerf so it takes more HP to pull.

Since your bar is hardnose you can run whatever pitch chain you prefer, but you will have to find (or have already) a rim type clutch drum as all of the spur drums you are likely to locate will be 7 tooth .404.

You might be able to find an Easy Mac or Auto Mac, I don't recall their handle right now, that had a rim type sprocket welded to the clutch drum. It has the benefit of supporting the tie straps like a replaceable rim sprocket but when the sprocket it done, the drum is done as well. I have only seen those in .404 for the bigger McCulloch saws as well.

The old McCulloch catalog does lists .354 fixed rim sprocket for the larger saws but I have never seen one.

Mark

 

[8433jeff]

No problem.


-----------------------------------------------

Something I forgot to mention in my above post is that I found the problem of the 850's weird running style... the fuel line split, letting the fuel filter drop off into the bottom of the tank.

Obviously, the fuel line floats... there's the lean/perfect/lean problem... it seems that fuel sloshing around allowed the carb to get the fuel it needed for a good mixture, but as soon as the fuel stopped sloshing around the tank, it would go lean.

I am going to take a picture of it and send it to the guy that I bought it from on feebay. We'll see how it goes from there. I suspect the guy will send a new fuel line, as it was only about three months old before splitting. wtf? Maybe there was a defect, like a bubble or something that made a weak spot for the split to start.

I don't think the carb got a bunch of crud in it, as the fuel line was floating on the top, but I've been wrong before.

Whilst the fuel was sloshing around, you figure the stuff that sinks out when its sits had the seat belt on and sat still on the bottom of the tank?
If it did, just epoxy a washer to the end of the line so it sinks but doesn't touch bottom, so it doesn't disturb the movie the crud is watching.
While what you picked up may or may not be relevant to how it runs, you can thank whomever for the screen in the carb. Replace the line and filter, and try it. IIRC, you had another brand of filter in it, and thats fine, but to expect warranty may be a stretch. Not saying, just saying.

 

[promac850]

Whilst the fuel was sloshing around, you figure the stuff that sinks out when its sits had the seat belt on and sat still on the bottom of the tank?
If it did, just epoxy a washer to the end of the line so it sinks but doesn't touch bottom, so it doesn't disturb the movie the crud is watching.
While what you picked up may or may not be relevant to how it runs, you can thank whomever for the screen in the carb. Replace the line and filter, and try it. IIRC, you had another brand of filter in it, and thats fine, but to expect warranty may be a stretch. Not saying, just saying.

Yep, the stupid creamsickle brand filter may have had too big of a nipple for the fuel line to handle without support from a clamp or something. Since I do basically have to pull the carb to put the line in, I will clean out that little screen. I bet it saved the carb. Yeah, you're likely right about crud getting sucked into the carb. I will go through it, again.

Warranty? The warranty for any of these relics expired years ago...

Oh, you must be referring to the fuel line... yeah, it's possible the guy will not just send a new one my way. But it's worth a shot. You don't know until you try. I guess a little duct tape and a tiny hose clamp will fix it just fine...

Stupid creamsickles. Everything's their fault... :msp_mad: