McCulloch Chain Saws

[struggle]

I have a skip chain on the Super 797 with 32" that was at the GTG, I don't really like it on a bar that size. May be O.K. for a longer bar and/or cutting soft wood but it is way to grabby and rough for my use. I will be putting a full comp chain on that one if I ever get home again.

Mark

Will I be able to pull a full comp then with the 37" Also what it the needle valve setting Mark. I know you know this off the top of your head.

 

[heimannm]

Your SP125 will pull the 37" bar with full comp chain, no problem.

Which carburetor on yours?

Mark

 

[struggle]

Your SP125 will pull the 37" bar with full comp chain, no problem.

Which carburetor on yours?

Mark

The fixed H jet version. WHen I ran it yestreday it ran like you ajustable version you made which made me think I might be running lean as it does not four stroke.

Carb is Tillotson HS124A The carb has been double stamped so it is hard to read. I think the last thing is an A

 

[heimannm]

I looked at both the Tillotson HS, and the Walbro SDC (by the way, all of the information is available on line at their respective web sites) and both recommend the lever be set flush with the bottom of the metering bowl/chamber floor.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Will I be able to pull a full comp then with the 37"

Shane, with the compression your saw has it should have no problem with full comp. I can bury my fixed jet with a 36/37" MAC bar (TL 40.5"; CL from spike is a little over 34") in hardwood and you have at least a 15 psi advantage.

I'm with Mark on the skip tooth. I have a 32/33 MAC bar on a PM800 with square chisel skip tooth and a 48+ bar on another fixed jet SP125C also with square chisel - both seemed slow to me in 28" hardwood and the saws had plenty of power left. Ride wasn't too rough but the wood was clean and the chains were sharp.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Gentlemen: I haven't run the kart saw yet as I'm still waiting on a new flywheel to arrive. I have two questions in the mean time:

1) I discovered that the saw has multiple signatures etched on it as well as at least one date. I can't read some of them. How can I raise the writing. Tracing paper didn't work. After stepping on chalk for years, the girls are now grown and there isn't a stick in the house. I don't have any machinist ink and wouldn't know how to use it if I did. So give me your best advice.

2) I kept being outbid on flywheels with starter pawls so I bought one without any. I've only located one pair and the price is more than I'm willing to pay at the moment. Any helpful hints on removing the old ones without busting up the flywheel?

As always thanks for your kind help.

Ron

 

[1375619cm3]

Thinking about getting a Low Priced Mac limbing saw... something fast, light and durable nothing special just a work horse for firewood and brush what do suggest and why?

A 10-10, the last of the breed had all the bells and whistles.

The 10-10 was good enough for Ronald Reagan.

I am also going to recommend a 10-10. I put a 16" bar on it at use it quite a bit for yard work and some light firewood. It is almost as handy as my Homelite Super EZ Auto, which is what I would recommend if this was the Homelite thread.:msp_biggrin:

10 10 eh guys... Ive seen quite a few on the bay and and tons a parts... i had thought about one but didn'tknow that they are respected as much, ill have to look in to one i do need another project saw at the moment as my 250 is only needing a chain at the moment and that is being taken care of this week. what size rim and sprocket would you run?? i was thinking an 8 for the speed but still had enough power to pull a small 16" skip tooth bar... could you go with a nine or is that not a good idea?:msp_unsure:

 

[1375619cm3]

which 10 10 would you go with?? i was just on acres site and there are quite a few model's, and how do you know the differance when looking at them?

 

[paccity]

heres one for you yellow fever suffers , was at camp 18 yesterday. asked him if he would part with it . well you know the answer.:biggrin:View attachment 184218

 

[a. palmer jr.]

10 10 eh guys... Ive seen quite a few on the bay and and tons a parts... i had thought about one but didn'tknow that they are respected as much, ill have to look in to one i do need another project saw at the moment as my 250 is only needing a chain at the moment and that is being taken care of this week. what size rim and sprocket would you run?? i was thinking an 8 for the speed but still had enough power to pull a small 16" skip tooth bar... could you go with a nine or is that not a good idea?:msp_unsure:

10-10 Macs are a pretty solid saw, easy to work on and seem to hold together pretty well. I have two of them, a right hand start and a left. I have two others that look like 10-10s but are not, a 700 and a PM55.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

which 10 10 would you go with?? i was just on acres site and there are quite a few model's, and how do you know the differance when looking at them?

The 10-10s is the model most people prefer. In my mind, pick up any of them that are in good condition. None of mine have a chain brake on them, I guess they're older models.

 

[RandyMac]

which 10 10 would you go with?? i was just on acres site and there are quite a few model's, and how do you know the differance when looking at them?

Look for a really nice example of the last couple years. Guido's would be perfect. Another good one would be a CP55, a 10-10 with AV.

 

[struggle]

I looked at both the Tillotson HS, and the Walbro SDC (by the way, all of the information is available on line at their respective web sites) and both recommend the lever be set flush with the bottom of the metering bowl/chamber floor.

Mark

It is set below the bowl. With a metal ruler accross the carb body it is a .10" or more lower.


I will raise it thanks for the info and link.

 

[rwoods]

Also I found a NOS 37" bar.

If you have it and are willing to part with the $, this sprocket nose bar will work with a little filing of the slot. Vintage McCulloch 38" Bar & Chain For 850 | eBay Don't be fooled by the part number (which is for the 125 & 105), all the bars he has left have the narrower slot. The bar is actually 40.5" total length - with factory spikes this yeids just a tad over 34" of cutting length on a 125. Ron

 

[struggle]

If you have it and are willing to part with the $, this sprocket nose bar will work with a little filing of the slot. Vintage McCulloch 38" Bar & Chain For 850 | eBay Don't be fooled by the part number (which is for the 125 & 105), all the bars he has left have the narrower slot. The bar is actually 40.5" total length - with factory spikes this yeids just a tad over 34" of cutting length on a 125. Ron

That is who I got the 37" bar from today. It is a hard nose though. I am fine with it being hard nose as I will use the saw lightly and use it for cutting off stumps and play days. Thanks for the find though..you have been repped

 

[rwoods]

MACs are no strangers to hard nose bars. I doubt a 125 cares much either way on a 3 foot bar. Ron

 

[a. palmer jr.]

It is set below the bowl. With a metal ruler accross the carb body it is a .10" or more lower.


I will raise it thanks for the info and link.

Low makes it run lean, high makes it not idle too well and makes it too rich.

 

[stinkbait]

heres one for you yellow fever suffers , was at camp 18 yesterday. asked him if he would part with it . well you know the answer.:biggrin

I like that bar. I wish I had one that long for my 125. I have a 36" on there now. Do you know how long it was?

 

[Eccentric]

10 10 eh guys... Ive seen quite a few on the bay and and tons a parts... i had thought about one but didn'tknow that they are respected as much, ill have to look in to one i do need another project saw at the moment as my 250 is only needing a chain at the moment and that is being taken care of this week. what size rim and sprocket would you run?? i was thinking an 8 for the speed but still had enough power to pull a small 16" skip tooth bar... could you go with a nine or is that not a good idea?:msp_unsure:

Why would you run skip-tooth on a 16" bar? Are you talking about your 250 or a future 10-10? On the 250, I'd run full comp .404 with an 8 pin rim. With 3/8" (again full comp) on that saw with a 16" bar I'd be inclined to try a 9 pin rim, and just swap on a 8 if it is having trouble. On a 10-10 with a 16" bar I'd go 3/8" full comp with a 7 pin rim. You may be able to run an 8 pin rim, depending on the wood you're cutting.

which 10 10 would you go with?? i was just on acres site and there are quite a few model's, and how do you know the differance when looking at them?

Whatever 10-10 variant you can find with a good P/C and at a price you can live with. There aren't really any 'bad' ones. P/C condition is the important factor. Same thing with a Homelite E-Z/Super E-Z or XL12/SXL-AO by the way...

heres one for you yellow fever suffers , was at camp 18 yesterday. asked him if he would part with it . well you know the answer.:biggrin:View attachment 184218

Nice. Is that a McCulloch 73 in the background (to the right, behind the tip of the big bar)?

 

[HeRoze]

Well, the local CL had a listing for a Poulan and a Craftsman. They looked fairly big in the pic so I called the guy and asked him what model they were. He didn’t know, but was going over to the house at 5:30. I told him I would meet him there along with the other guy looking at the saws. They were 3.3 and 3.6, so I passed.

He mentioned a ‘huge’ saw in the garage.

I raised one eyebrow and told him THAT was the one I had come to look at.

Up in a corner was this yellow thing. I looked at it briefly, determined it wasn’t seized and was mostly there and bought it. It looks complete except for the carb filter cover.
Once again, I have no idea what I just bought other than it is older than my other models, so any help will be appreciated. I’ve got the IPL library, so a model # would certainly help!