McCulloch Chain Saws

[cpr]

What has truly amazed me is the amount that people are willing to pay for a junk saw, but they won't shell out a little more money for a nice saw. There was a SP105 that I pointed out on here about a week ago, not running, no bar/chain, and missing all sorts of parts. It ended up going for about $360. At the same time, my buddy Axeman has a nice complete running SP125 with an opening bid of $600. Well, he didn't get any bids, so he relisted it for $575. I really don't want any more SP125's but I am really starting to get tempted.

I've had a bead on it a while, but my trigger finger's gettin' itchy too.

 

[leeha]

What has truly amazed me is the amount that people are willing to pay for a junk saw, but they won't shell out a little more money for a nice saw. There was a SP105 that I pointed out on here about a week ago, not running, no bar/chain, and missing all sorts of parts. It ended up going for about $360. At the same time, my buddy Axeman has a nice complete running SP125 with an opening bid of $600. Well, he didn't get any bids, so he relisted it for $575. I really don't want any more SP125's but I am really starting to get tempted.

I believe axemans saw was listed with an opening bid
of 800.00, No bids, then relist at 700.00, And no bids,
Now relist at 575.00 it will probably sell at this price.



Lee

 

[cpr]

I believe axemans saw was listed with an opening bid
of 800.00, No bids, then relist at 700.00, And no bids,
Now relist at 575.00 it will probably sell at this price.



Lee

I think it's a different saw, Lee. The $800 then $700 had a 50" or so bar with it...

 

[leeha]

I think it's a different saw, Lee. The $800 then $700 had a 50" or so bar with it...

It's the same saw but now without the 52 inch bar.
Check completed listings, I just read them.
The first time listed was at 850.00



Lee

 

[a. palmer jr.]

What has truly amazed me is the amount that people are willing to pay for a junk saw, but they won't shell out a little more money for a nice saw. There was a SP105 that I pointed out on here about a week ago, not running, no bar/chain, and missing all sorts of parts. It ended up going for about $360. At the same time, my buddy Axeman has a nice complete running SP125 with an opening bid of $600. Well, he didn't get any bids, so he relisted it for $575. I really don't want any more SP125's but I am really starting to get tempted.

It's something that can't be explained, except it depends on who's looking at the saw at the time. I've had several saws for sale and it doesn't matter what kind they are, what shape they're in or anything else. I've sold plastic Macs and Homelites that brought an amazing price, some non-runners also. But, some saws that ran and really should have brought good money didn't.

 

[heimannm]

Struggle - I have been kept pretty busy while here in Brasil, it is a big country and can be a long way from one customer to the next...

I looked through all of the information I have and can't find anything on how the HS 123 and 124 compare. I suggest you start at the Tillotson web site to see if they list the venturi and throttle bore diameter anywhere. Assuming they are the same (but don't count on it unless you check it out for yourself) you could then look into which H jet it actually as in it now. If it is already the .029 or larger, no need to change it out if you have the adjustment screw.

The problem with the stock caburetor saw I have is that it is too rich (big jet) so the only way to really make it work is to lean on it. Not sure what the venturi diameter is, I will have to check it out when I get home again.

The adjustable jet SDC on the other one is the same venturi diameter and throttle bore as used on a bunch of saws (.750 venturi, .812 throttle bore) but the adjustable feature lets you lean it out a bit more than the stock set up.

The Tillotson HS 70A (stock for the CP125 and adjustable H and L) has a .687 venturi diameter, and .812 throttle bore so the Walbro (SDC) may breathe a little better.

Mark

edit - I just punched in the numbers and the .750" venturi has roughly 19% greater area than the .687" venturi in case you were interested

A while back I questioned whether or not there would be enough velocity in the carburetor to make the larger venturi stil work effectively, glad I did because I have seen the results for myself and yes, there certainly is...

 

[Brian13]

While we all may gripe from time to time about the price that a particular MAC saw brings, this ought to help us keep a perspective that certain items are in high demand.

vtg mcculloch chainsaw ad advertsing aluminum hard hat | eBay

$202.50 plus shipping. I lost interest at $50 but I planned on using it. Ron

Ron

I was watching that closely as well. I really want a Mac hard hat, but I will use it as well. And even still I dont think I could swallow 200$ for a display piece. It was too pretty anyways, maybe a well used one will pop up one day.

 

[heimannm]

I have watched a number of used ones go from $40 to $70, now someone has set the bar a bit high...let's see if it brings out some more old hats and remember boys and girls, they only can bring what people are willing to pay.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

I was watching that closely as well. I really want a Mac hard hat, but I will use it as well. And even still I dont think I could swallow 200$ for a display piece. It was too pretty anyways, maybe a well used one will pop up one day.

I wasn't convinced that it was authentic but I didn't care. It had a 6 point suspension and a new 4 point will cost more than $50. There was another one from the same seller with the flying goose but no suspension and it had a small hole in the rim at both ends maybe to hang it by. I don't know what is brought as it got away while I was looking for a suspension for it. Ron

 

[heimannm]

My daughter knew I was looking for one, so a year (maybe two) ago she bought me a new aluminum one for my birthday.

Guess I need to paint it yellow, apply the goose decal, then wear it for a season or two...maybe I can sell it for $200?

Mark

 

[rwoods]

I have watched a number of used ones go from $40 to $70, now someone has set the bar a bit high...let's see if it brings out some more old hats and remember boys and girls, they only can bring what people are willing to pay.

Mark

Very True. I almost edited my post yesterday to reflect that they are highly valued by some instead of they are in high demand which implies that a lot of people want one and are willing to pay. Most auctions I watch really only have 2 or 3 serious bidders. Ron

 

[heimannm]

While I am thinking about it, I did recently get a McCulloch watch (10 Series), a lighter (rather small in size), and most recently a "fob".

Mark

 

[promac850]

Where the heck do you find that stuff?

I've been looking for a McCulloch scrench, as the creamsickle screnches I found in a toolbox I got from my neighbor don't fit the yellow and black saws.

I end up bringing a ratchet and two screwdrivers out with me to adjust or remove the bar and chain or tune the carb, in case either happens to be necessary.

------------------------------------------

On the 790 project: Still waiting on those stupid gauges. :msp_angry:

They better come in soon after I get this certain little green weedeater fixed and running... 20cc's of raw heaping power!!! Yeah, like half a horsepower...

On a serious note, has McCulloch ever made a trimmer attachment for the saws?

 

[heimannm]

You have to scour e-bay daily and snap up the good looking things before others have a chance.

I actually have two of the forged McCulloch "scrench's" and one stamped one that it pretty chinsey. I recently added a 3-10 DSP that came with a McCulloch scrench with the 1/2" box end so I have a nearly complete set now.

Someone was selling off a buch of the good ones recently, I think they even say "Made in Germany" on them.

These logo decals are available from e-bay as well, not perfect but not expensive at all if you are just looking for something close.

Mark

 

[dieselsmoke]

jeesh 610, I thought you were in a welding class. Go get a throw away scrench that fits the plug you are using ( prob 5/8") and weld a tiwanese socket on the other side that fits the bar nuts. you will need two, one with a 1/2" socket and a 9/16" socket then PAINT THEM YELLOW. 1/2" for the 10- series, and the other for the large frame (AKA 790, that you haven't worked on lately) saws. Now get to work.
Oh, and you will still need the itty bitty screw driver to adjust the carby.:msp_wink:

 

[heimannm]

On a serious note, has McCulloch ever made a trimmer attachment for the saws?

Seriously, yes. They produced attachments for both the 33/35 model saws (54 cc) and for the 200/250 saws (80 cc).

While I would love to add them to my collection, I don't think I'd ever have the never or the back and shoulders for that matter to strap one on and try to use it.

I know I have the IPL for the 200 Series unit at home, I think I have the IPL for the Earth Auger as well. I do have an example of the 35 powered "dynamite drill" for boring stumps to insert dynamite to blow them out of the ground. Non runner at this time though.

Mark

 

[HeRoze]

I am looking to put an adjustable H/L carb on teh SP125. A guy gave me a HS123A today that has adjustabel H/L screws but is not impulse line driven.


Questions are can I rejet it as I see the 123A was on 65 and 77cc engines.

My SP125 has the HS124 fixed H jet.

Is it not even an option to use the HS123 or to modify it to work?

I know Mark H has done this with his Sp125 and I Pm'd him but he is on a walk about currently.

HS-124, huh. Tillotson doesn't even list it, for whatever reason.
http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HSPartsList.pdf

 

[promac850]

jeesh 610, I thought you were in a welding class. Go get a throw away scrench that fits the plug you are using ( prob 5/8") and weld a tiwanese socket on the other side that fits the bar nuts. you will need two, one with a 7/16" socket and a 9/16" socket then PAINT THEM YELLOW. 7/16" for the 10- series, and the other for the large frame (AKA 790, that you haven't worked on lately) saws. Now get to work.
Oh, and you will still need the itty bitty screw driver to adjust the carby.:msp_wink:

Welding class ended a while ago, in April.

I do have some of them little tai sockets around... I will see about making a Mac Scrench tomorrow.

I did get a few more 790 parts cleaned off yesterday.

I plan on getting new crank seals when I run out tomorrow, since Napa is a bearing center around here. I am not sure if I need new crank bearings or not... they roll smoothly and don't feel or look to have pitting. One of them, (the larger PTO bearing IIRC) seems to have a tiny bit of play in it. I thought about bringing the crank and having them press the bearings off and find some new ones.

Should I do that, or is one of the guys there gonna drop the crank on the floor and crack it?

 

[rwoods]

Where the heck do you find that stuff?

I've been looking for a McCulloch scrench, as the creamsickle screnches I found in a toolbox I got from my neighbor don't fit the yellow and black saws.

I end up bringing a ratchet and two screwdrivers out with me to adjust or remove the bar and chain or tune the carb, in case either happens to be necessary.

promac610, IMHO a ratchet, extension and sockets and a long screwdriver is better than any scrench; especially on your PM850 with full wrap handle bars. There are MAC screnchs on eBay as well as the non-sparkplug versions of days past. You can still get the forged 9/16" version that Mark referred to but the only 1/2" versions I have found are the cheapo stamped type. FWIIW personally, I am weighing the merits of racheting wrenches vs. a dedicated ratchet and socket so I can return my other tools to the tool box. Right now it looks like a ratchet and socket is better for the PM800s with a full wrap and a swivel ratcheting wrench is better for the 125s. I was hoping to narrow it to one setup for both. Other than conversion to side adjustment, I have not come up with a better alternative than a long screwdriver for bar adjustment on a 10 series (no big deal on a 125). The longer length allows you to get a straighter approach on the screw head. Ron

 

[promac850]

promac610, IMHO a ratchet, extension and sockets and a long screwdriver is better than any scrench; especially on your PM850 with full wrap handle bars. There are MAC screnchs on eBay as well as the non-sparkplug versions of days past. You can still get the forged 9/16" version that Mark referred to but the only 1/2" versions I have found are the cheapo stamped type. FWIIW personally, I am weighing the merits of racheting wrenches vs. a dedicated ratchet and socket so I can return my other tools to the tool box. Right now it looks like a ratchet and socket is better for the PM800s with a full wrap and a swivel ratcheting wrench is better for the 125s. I was hoping to narrow it to one setup for both. Other than conversion to side adjustment, I have not come up with a better alternative than a long screwdriver for bar adjustment on a 10 series (no big deal on a 125). The longer length allows you to get a straighter approach on the screw head. Ron

Now that I think about it, it is quite convenient with a ratchet. Spins the bar nuts off a bit quicker.

I was going to take the extension problem into consideration when making the scrench... now that I think of it, it'd be a PITA to turn the adjustment screw with a scrench, as the sockets would be hitting the bar all the time.

I'll have a little kit of the sockets I need, and the extension, as well as the screwdrivers.

Thanks for the insight... I would've been kinda frustrated after welding up something as useful as a paperweight...