McCulloch Chain Saws

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You would think after 40 years of starting MACs I would know when I have flooded one or whether it just needs more fuel. But I haven’t learned yet.

I replaced the flywheel on the kart saw today. Thanks to all the posts on how contrary big MACs can be, I brought an $8 harmonic balancer puller. The 10 series have always given up their flywheels to me with just a tap on the shaft. But not this big boy, it took 4 hours of tension before he gave up the fight and decided to let go.

Anyway, I put him back together, poured in about a 1/3 tank of mix, splashed the air filter, pulled out the choke and he popped on the first pull. He popped again on the second pull. But alas that was it. I wore myself out trying to crank him. Choke, no choke, aired out, more mix, full throttle, no throttle, partial throttle- it never popped again. :bang: It didn’t help that the DSP had to be reset every pull. I forgot several times; whacked my knee and busted a knuckle*. I finally gave up when it began to rain, but not before confirming I had a good spark. I felt like I had entered a time warp that send me back twenty-five years to when my dad gave up his MACs for H-----s because they started so easily. :msp_scared:

After reading Mark’s method I beginning to wonder if I haven’t given it enough mix. A teaspoon is more than I have been pouring on the air filter, but then again I see a wet exhaust from time to time.

:help: So short of having the shop boy come down and crank for me, does anyone have any helpful hints on how to start this baby? I will be replacing the DSP next so I hopefully can do a rapid succession of pulls. The saw doesn’t have a throttle latch so I figure I’ll have to work on pulling with my left hand until I replace it or find it doesn’t need one.

Thanks, Ron

*It is a good thing my wife is out of town. I dismissed the knuckle forgetting all about being on blood thinners. I left a pretty good trail through the kitchen before I noticed.

Ron,

I would follow Mark's original directions to a T, just because that's exactly how I do it. Instead of splashing the air filter go right for the carb throat. I have little squirt bottle full of mix and ready to go at any given time. I usually squirt a good bit down there so it will run for a few seconds. Just enough to be able to throw the choke on so it can draw it's own fuel.


Leave the air filter and cover off throughout this process, just make sure you aren't in an area where you can suck anything major up.

Try this 2-3 times and if she won't run well I'd get into that fuel system the right way. I'd reccomend that anyways.


Take the plug out and blow it out with air, maybe let it dry for a little whole and start out dry. You'll know for sure you're not flooded. I've had em pop just fine before on probably 2 tablespoons of gas.

Chris
 
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I have had a lot of recent experience Ron, and can sympathize as to what you are going through. I will say, that I can smell when the saw is getting fuel. A second check is to pull the plug and see if it is wet. The Tilly carbs are so easy to deal with, that you shouldn't have much of a problem fixing a fuel issue. To me it sounds as if it is starving.

Another observation I have made is that you need a throttle lock to start these saws. If you don't have one, crank up the idle screw just about all the way. Once the saw is warmed up you can bring the idle back to normal.
 
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Another observation I have made is that you need a throttle lock to start these saws. If you don't have one, crank up the idle screw just about all the way. Once the saw is warmed up you can bring the idle back to normal.

I've done that a time or 2!


McCulloch engineers figured your finger could be the throttle lock. Starting a Mac can be like playing a game of Twister sometimes, especially when you first get one running and it's not tuned in yet.

I about croaked when I saw the 380 I just got in had a throttle lock!


Chris
 
what what what? a throttle lock? Ive got a 380. now ive got to go look. Never much consistancy with the old Macs.

2c554088.jpg


You can see it right in the middle of the handle in this pic.


Chris
 
Yea, Blue does not look right on it.

BUT... it is rare, therefore should be worth buku bucks if you find someone that loves the name 'Farmcrest'... :)

Yeah, it may not look as good as Mac yellow, but keep in mind, stuff like that saw sure ain't seen very often... some like to see an interesting variation in colors on the same damn saw... I'm one of them... :D

Kinda like some of the other Macs, like the Pro (Power) Mac 1000... it's a Partner P100 in Mac yellow clothes instead of Partner yellow clothes. Not a bad saw at all...
 
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BUT... it is rare, therefore should be worth buku bucks if you find someone that loves the name 'Farmcrest'... :)

Yeah, it may not look as good as Mac yellow, but keep in mind, stuff like that saw sure ain't seen very often... some like to see an interesting variation in colors on the same damn saw... I'm one of them... :D

Kinda like some of the other Macs, like the Pro (Power) Mac 1000... it's a Partner P100 in yellow clothes. Not a bad saw at all...

Partner P100s wore yellow also. Unlike that girl in your avatar!

:laugh:


Chris
 
Chris, thanks for the pic, I went out in the shop and checked my 380, 300 and S250, and no such luck. No lock on any of them. So is it factory or owner installed?
 
Ron, those big saws are THIRSTY! I Have started quite a few that have sat a while, they respond well to about a half a shot of fuel. Something tells me you aren't a drink'n man, so figure about 3/4 Fl oz. of fuel, to get the fire started. Sometimes it takes a couple of primes befor the fuel pump take over, I hope this helps. Ill try to post a pic of Daddy's little helper, a Go-kart starter with a deep socket up against the clutch nut. Works magic and saves your arm.
 
I often use a piston oiler filled with mix fuel, you know the kind of pump oiler you get at a farm fleet store, etc. I often give them 10-12 pumps with that one. Many times it will pop once then flooded for a pull or two, then fires and runs on the next 1 or 2 pulls for several seconds before consuming the prime charge.

I have only flooded two saws ever to the point they would not start in a few pulls by over priming them. On one I removed the spark plug to check it out and started a fire (spark + excess fuel in the cylinder), I managed to put it out before it got out of control.

The other time I poured fuel from the can right down the throat of the carburetor and got more than a little carried away. Since we were in the field I didn't mess with removing the spark plug, just crank and crank and crank and finally gave up. Perhaps an hour later I tried again and it started right up and just kept on running.

If it pops once then not again, I expect you don't have enough fuel to make it go...

Mark
 
McCulloch 99

Picked up a McCulloch 99 today at an auction Seems to be in good shape are there any IPL'S floating around. I will try to get pic.s tomorrow. It also has an attachment that apears to be for a post hole auger. Turns over seems to have good compression not sure on spark yet.
 
I've done that a time or 2!


McCulloch engineers figured your finger could be the throttle lock. Starting a Mac can be like playing a game of Twister sometimes, especially when you first get one running and it's not tuned in yet.

I about croaked when I saw the 380 I just got in had a throttle lock!


You can see it right in the middle of the handle in this pic.


Chris

Chris, thanks for the pic, I went out in the shop and checked my 380, 300 and S250, and no such luck. No lock on any of them. So is it factory or owner installed?

I'm with Dieselsmoke. I've NEVER seen a throttle lock on these large-frame McCullochs. Don't think I've ever seen it in any IPL's either. PLEASE look closer at it to figure out if it's a homebrew setup or factory. If it's homebrew (and works well) then I'd LOVE to see how it was done. Those saws could SURE use a throttle lock. I've resorted to the zip-tie trick before, but I don't like it. Same with the 'twister' antics. I've thought about drilling a small hole through the handle and trigger (with the trigger at the right "high idle" possition), and using a fire extinguisher pin in the hole for cold starting. I was going to tether the pin to the saw handle or AF cover. Not pretty, but it'd work...
 
I often use a piston oiler filled with mix fuel, you know the kind of pump oiler you get at a farm fleet store, etc. I often give them 10-12 pumps with that one. Many times it will pop once then flooded for a pull or two, then fires and runs on the next 1 or 2 pulls for several seconds before consuming the prime charge.

I have only flooded two saws ever to the point they would not start in a few pulls by over priming them. On one I removed the spark plug to check it out and started a fire (spark + excess fuel in the cylinder), I managed to put it out before it got out of control.

The other time I poured fuel from the can right down the throat of the carburetor and got more than a little carried away. Since we were in the field I didn't mess with removing the spark plug, just crank and crank and crank and finally gave up. Perhaps an hour later I tried again and it started right up and just kept on running.

If it pops once then not again, I expect you don't have enough fuel to make it go...

Mark

I would agree 100% with that. I never was successful just wetting the filter. I am always dumping gas right down the throat of the carb, and I have never flooded a Mac to the point that it wouldn't start either.
 
I'm with Dieselsmoke. I've NEVER seen a throttle lock on these large-frame McCullochs. Don't think I've ever seen it in any IPL's either. PLEASE look closer at it to figure out if it's a homebrew setup or factory. If it's homebrew (and works well) then I'd LOVE to see how it was done. Those saws could SURE use a throttle lock. I've resorted to the zip-tie trick before, but I don't like it. Same with the 'twister' antics. I've thought about drilling a small hole through the handle and trigger (with the trigger at the right "high idle" possition), and using a fire extinguisher pin in the hole for cold starting. I was going to tether the pin to the saw handle or AF cover. Not pretty, but it'd work...

I might have a look today just to see. It works excellent man. Like I said I almost keeled over when I saw it. As far as zip ties are concerned I'd rather play twister.

The RH start Macs are easier than these LH ones. Sometimes I'll jus prime them anyways, once you get them warmed up they'll run all day on 1-2 pulls.

Chris
 
Kart Saw Update

I failed to get the kart saw started tonight but I did get a good workout. I couldn’t get it to do more than a single pop at a time. The fuel line to the carb is okay and I filled the tank to the top. I don’t know about the impulse line or the carb but the Seller represented that the saw ran well and he seemed to be a straight up guy. I tried both the mix down the carb and the mix in the cylinder approaches many times. The saw would only pop when choked although I thought I had plenty of mix in it. I taped the throttle wide open and about 50%; didn’t make any difference.
I took the muffler off. The piston looked good as did the cylinder. I did notice that the last 1/4” of down stroke was very difficult (would stretch the S---l Elastro-start to it limits) and the rebound would send the piston way up into the cylinder. Since I only know enough to be dangerous, would some of you chime in on whether or not this is normal or if possible, is a reed stuck or a port obstructed? I know there is some compression of the mix that takes place in the crank (hence the stuffer) but that is all I know.

Thanks, Ron
 
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