McCulloch Chain Saws

[RandyMac]

Chris, I just sent you every 7-10 IPL I had+

 

[rwoods]

Kart Saw Troubles

It rained this evening which made the time spend dismantling the 101B a little less frustrating. When laid on its side the engine is binding up on something I cannot see. Not the stuffer nor the flywheel - I have removed the head and nothing is visible top side except two full stroke faint lines on the intake side about a ½” apart. I can’t feel any depth to the lines. I’m guessing that the rings are hanging in the ports. Anyway here is where I need some advice: someone had replaced all but two of the crankcase cover bolts with some cheapo hex head cap screws. You guess it – I can’t get one out even with a six point socket. Before I take a chisel to it I thought I should seek suggestions.

Thanks, Ron

PS With the right height socket you can break loose the flywheel nut and remove the flywheel at the same time by inserting a 3/8 extension through the center of a puller frame. Hold the puller to break the nut free and then as the nut backs out it hits the puller frame and brings the flywheel with it. I wouldn’t recommend this method for a stuck flywheel as the crank threads might not be up to the stress but it worked fine in removing my freshly installed flywheel.

PSS Just because you’re supposed to drain a saw of all fluids before shipping USPS, don’t count on it. In my hurry, I didn’t check the oil tank for oil – what a mess.

 

[Rounder]

That's no fun....my 1-76 was full of used motor oil when I pulled the tank. ####, what a mess.

 

[promac850]

It rained this evening which made the time spend dismantling the 101B a little less frustrating. When laid on its side the engine is binding up on something I cannot see. Not the stuffer nor the flywheel - I have removed the head and nothing is visible top side except two full stroke faint lines on the intake side about a ½” apart. I can’t feel any depth to the lines. I’m guessing that the rings are hanging in the ports. Anyway here is where I need some advice: someone had replaced all but two of the crankcase cover bolts with some cheapo hex head cap screws. You guess it – I can’t get one out even with a six point socket. Before I take a chisel to it I thought I should seek suggestions.

Thanks, Ron

PS With the right height socket you can break loose the flywheel nut and remove the flywheel at the same time by inserting a 3/8 extension through the center of a puller frame. Hold the puller to break the nut free and then as the nut backs out it hits the puller frame and brings the flywheel with it. I wouldn’t recommend this method for a stuck flywheel as the crank threads might not be up to the stress but it worked fine in removing my freshly installed flywheel.

PSS Just because you’re supposed to drain a saw of all fluids before shipping USPS, don’t count on it. In my hurry, I didn’t check the oil tank for oil – what a mess.

You mean those allen screws?

If you know a welder or have a welder, tack some actual nuts on top of those bolts... make a good heavy tack. The heat also should make it a bit easier to remove the bolt, given you act on it fairly soon after welding that nut on.

I did this to remove a thread insert that had a broken bolt in it on a certain orange saw that I later traded for an old 89cc top handle saw. It worked fantastically. Note that red thread lock was on the thread insert too... so the heat made that loosen up too.

 

[cpr]

It rained this evening which made the time spend dismantling the 101B a little less frustrating. When laid on its side the engine is binding up on something I cannot see. Not the stuffer nor the flywheel - I have removed the head and nothing is visible top side except two full stroke faint lines on the intake side about a ½” apart. I can’t feel any depth to the lines. I’m guessing that the rings are hanging in the ports. Anyway here is where I need some advice: someone had replaced all but two of the crankcase cover bolts with some cheapo hex head cap screws. You guess it – I can’t get one out even with a six point socket. Before I take a chisel to it I thought I should seek suggestions.

Thanks, Ron

PS With the right height socket you can break loose the flywheel nut and remove the flywheel at the same time by inserting a 3/8 extension through the center of a puller frame. Hold the puller to break the nut free and then as the nut backs out it hits the puller frame and brings the flywheel with it. I wouldn’t recommend this method for a stuck flywheel as the crank threads might not be up to the stress but it worked fine in removing my freshly installed flywheel.

PSS Just because you’re supposed to drain a saw of all fluids before shipping USPS, don’t count on it. In my hurry, I didn’t check the oil tank for oil – what a mess.

By crankcase bolts I assume you mean the flywheel side bearing support, yes? I would drill them out. Start small and work up. Left hand bits would be the ticket if you have them.

 

[HeRoze]

So... the roller/pin on the brake handle won't go into the hole on the spring metal brake. I went as far as putting a gentle lead-in (chamfer) on the brake hole, and then tried to force it a bit using a c-clamp. no luck. (I had taken it all apart so all was safely on the bench, not on the saw...)

I pulled all the parts off and put them in a bag for later. It came without the handle and tension spring, but all the other parts were still on there, managing not to fall off somehow.

Any ideas? do these things come with different pins or brakes that would explain the no-fit? ietc? 10-10A.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

OOOO oOOOOH I know the answer to that one......

Mine had the exact same problem. Go figure.... lol. Be very careful, because the different oil tanks have subtle differences, and the first replacement I got did not match up with the mount for the wrap around handle. I JB welded the first oil tank, and it seems good, but I bought another anyway. PM me and I will gladly send you my repaired one if you want it.

It is pretty crazy replacing these, as you have to crack the case right along the crank to replace. My surgery went without a hitch, so it's not too bad.

Best of luck,

Hmmmm, maybe I'll JB it, and if it fails I will replace the part. It's a hairline crack, but just enough.

I was looking at some 10-10 IPLs and saw how the case needed split. It looked a little hairy to me, but I reckon I'll give it a shot.

Is there a gasket between the two halves?

Chris, I just sent you every 7-10 IPL I had+

Thank you Emperor.

 

[mactodd]

10 Series manual oil pumps

Like I figgered, there ain't much difference between an old as dirt 10-10, and a 10-10S from the 80's.... except the newer one is made of plastic. They both will interchange. Here's the pics.

 

[Brian13]

Hmmmm, maybe I'll JB it, and if it fails I will replace the part. It's a hairline crack, but just enough.

I was looking at some 10-10 IPLs and saw how the case needed split. It looked a little hairy to me, but I reckon I'll give it a shot.

Is there a gasket between the two halves?



Thank you Emperor.

There is no gasket, its set up like a modern clam shell. There are 4 bolts on the outside going from the cylinder into the oil tank, and another 4 going from inside the oil tank into the cylinder. Its not hard, just have to take most of the saw apart LOL. I have an extra tank off an 10-10, if it will work for you I can send it to you.

 

[rwoods]

You mean those allen screws?

If you know a welder or have a welder, tack some actual nuts on top of those bolts... make a good heavy tack. The heat also should make it a bit easier to remove the bolt, given you act on it fairly soon after welding that nut on.

I did this to remove a thread insert that had a broken bolt in it on a certain orange saw that I later traded for an old 89cc top handle saw. It worked fantastically. Note that red thread lock was on the thread insert too... so the heat made that loosen up too.

It is a hex head (as in external hex) not an allen head (as in internal hex). I don't have a welder. I have a few hand tools. I gave all my mechanic tools away many years ago when spending time with my then little girls was more important than time in the garage.

By crankcase bolts I assume you mean the flywheel side bearing support, yes? I would drill them out. Start small and work up. Left hand bits would be the ticket if you have them.

Yes, I am referring to the magnesium crankcase cover that is just behind the flywheel. Promac610 can attest to my lack of skill in drilling out a small bolt - I couldn't turn it out with an extractor and I got off center drilling it. I think I'll try a small chisel and see if I can knock it loose. If I can't chisel it loose then I can either try to drill it or grind the head off and hope there is enough shaft left to get a pair of vice grips on it once the cover is out of the way. This will have to wait as I'll have to buy a small chisel. I may just take it to a machine shop in the morning and let them fool with it. I hate to do this as it probably just needs a slight jolt but I don't want to break anything either.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Brian13]

It rained this evening which made the time spend dismantling the 101B a little less frustrating. When laid on its side the engine is binding up on something I cannot see. Not the stuffer nor the flywheel - I have removed the head and nothing is visible top side except two full stroke faint lines on the intake side about a ½” apart. I can’t feel any depth to the lines. I’m guessing that the rings are hanging in the ports. Anyway here is where I need some advice: someone had replaced all but two of the crankcase cover bolts with some cheapo hex head cap screws. You guess it – I can’t get one out even with a six point socket. Before I take a chisel to it I thought I should seek suggestions.

Thanks, Ron

PS With the right height socket you can break loose the flywheel nut and remove the flywheel at the same time by inserting a 3/8 extension through the center of a puller frame. Hold the puller to break the nut free and then as the nut backs out it hits the puller frame and brings the flywheel with it. I wouldn’t recommend this method for a stuck flywheel as the crank threads might not be up to the stress but it worked fine in removing my freshly installed flywheel.

PSS Just because you’re supposed to drain a saw of all fluids before shipping USPS, don’t count on it. In my hurry, I didn’t check the oil tank for oil – what a mess.

Some times I can break them free by using the next size smaller of the opposite measurement. I.E. if its SAE the next size down in metric, and pressing down as hard as I can while slowly trying to turn it. Doesnt always work but I have had pretty good success doing it like that.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

There is no gasket, its set up like a modern clam shell. There are 4 bolts on the outside going from the cylinder into the oil tank, and another 4 going from inside the oil tank into the cylinder. Its not hard, just have to take most of the saw apart LOL. I have an extra tank off an 10-10, if it will work for you I can send it to you.

Sooo, what do you think my chances of getting it fixed with JB are?


Chris

 

[Brian13]

Sooo, what do you think my chances of getting it fixed with JB are?


Chris

Stopping it from any oil leaking out......great, have had success there. Keeping the bar studs in place........I dont know, only one way to find out though. I dont see why not though.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Stopping it from any oil leaking out......great, have had success there. Keeping the bar studs in place........I dont know, only one way to find out though. I dont see why not though.

I'll give it the old college try, I don't have much to loose if it doesn't work. I may have a trick or two up my sleeve.


Chris

 

[cpr]

Some times I can break them free by using the next size smaller of the opposite measurement. I.E. if its SAE the next size down in metric, and pressing down as hard as I can while slowly trying to turn it. Doesnt always work but I have had pretty good success doing it like that.

Yup, done that, too. The key is pushing down wouldn't you say Brian?

 

[54stude]

If you can get a allen wrench in the hole, then use a vice grips set on kill to squeeze the screw onto the wrench. then you can twist with both pieces. A pipe fits on the adjusting screw of a vice grips pretty well if you need leverage.

Or, I weld a washer to the inside of the cap screw, filling the center with weld, and then weld a larger nut onto the top. As soon as the orange color goes away, remove the screw. The washer allows you to see better, and allows a larger nut to be used compared with putting the nut directly onto the screw.

Or, pound a triple square, or torx into the screw, and hope it is enough to remove the screw.
Good luck!

Anyway here is where I need some advice: someone had replaced all but two of the crankcase cover bolts with some cheapo hex head cap screws. You guess it – I can’t get one out even with a six point socket. Before I take a chisel to it I thought I should seek suggestions.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Brian13]

Yup, done that, too. The key is pushing down wouldn't you say Brian?

That seems to play a big part in it. Most of the time when it works it seems that I am pushing down harder than I am turning. I have been pretty lucky with that so far.

 

[rwoods]

Some times I can break them free by using the next size smaller of the opposite measurement. I.E. if its SAE the next size down in metric, and pressing down as hard as I can while slowly trying to turn it. Doesnt always work but I have had pretty good success doing it like that.

Thanks. I tried that with a twelve point but just rounded the corners more. Part of the problem is the heads are so shallow and the sockets are flared. I'm not above grinding a socket down a little but I'm not to that point yet.

What about a little heat, assuming I can avoid melting something I shouldn't? It looks like someone use silicone to seal the threads.

Ron

 

[Brian13]

Thanks. I tried that with a twelve point but just rounded the corners more. Part of the problem is the heads are so shallow and the sockets are flared. I'm not above grinding a socket down a little but I'm not to that point yet.

What about a little heat, assuming I can avoid melting something I shouldn't? It looks like someone use silicone to seal the threads.

Ron

I think a 6 point works a little better and slips a little less. If you use heat I would be careful, I try not to get it to hot. I would especially be careful if you still have the fuel tank on with fuel in it, and any that may still be in the cylinder.

 

[HeRoze]

Thanks. I tried that with a twelve point but just rounded the corners more. Part of the problem is the heads are so shallow and the sockets are flared. I'm not above grinding a socket down a little but I'm not to that point yet.

What about a little heat, assuming I can avoid melting something I shouldn't? It looks like someone use silicone to seal the threads.

Ron

you might be able to get away with some JB weld and a POS socket you have laying around (or at the pawn shop) glob the JB on, hammer on the socket and wait a while.

You don't happen to have an impact screwdriver, do you? They are a good thing to have around - basically you hit it with a hammer which causes the bit to turn a little, applying SIGNIFICANT downward pressure as it turns.
A Klein
A cheaper one - $7