McCulloch Chain Saws

[leeha]

Ron, That saw or engine should rotate easily
through the down stroke. If it is as hard as you
say then that's probably why your having difficulty
starting the ole girl. Check the flywheel to coil
gap and make sure there not hitting.
It is also possible that they have the wrong stuffer
in it and the crank or rod bolts are hitting it.



Lee

 

[rwoods]

Ron, That saw or engine should rotate easily
through the down stroke. If it is as hard as you
say then that's probably why your having difficulty
starting the ole girl. Check the flywheel to coil
gap and make sure there not hitting.
It is also possible that they have the wrong stuffer
in it and the crank or rod bolts are hitting it.



Lee

I'll start with the coil. I set it with a business card which measured within MAC specs. I didn't bother to gauge the actual gap afterwards. Wouldn't I hear something if the stuffer was being hit? I'll report back. Thanks, Ron

 

[rwoods]

Okay, I'm braced -hit me with the bad news as the coil is okay. If the saw is held with the crankshaft horizonal, it will rotate smoothly once you get past a one time catch. If the saw is held clutch side down it catches on the down stroke. If it is held flywheel side down it catches in both directions. Thanks, Ron

 

[leeha]

Ron, Grab the flywheel and pull it in and out
and see if it moves,. There usually isn't any
end play as the bearings are a snug fit into
the case and the bearings are a press fit.
But it sounds like it is moving.



Lee

 

[rwoods]

Ron, Grab the flywheel and pull it in and out
and see if it moves,. There usually isn't any
end play as the bearings are a snug fit into
the case and the bearings are a press fit.
But it sounds like it is moving.



Lee

I can't feel it or see it but I can hear it as I push and pull on it. Maybe it is a good thing I couldn't start it. But I don't see a connection between the two. Ron

 

[promac850]

I can't feel it or see it but I can hear it as I push and pull on it. Maybe it is a good thing I couldn't start it. But I don't see a connection between the two. Ron

I don't get how bad bearings would have anything to do with making a saw hard to pull over... anyone able to explain how that can be a problem? I'm a bit confused at to how that's possible.

 

[heimannm]

There is very little clearance in the bottom end of a kart engine to insure a high pressure charge in the bottom end of the crank case.

If the crank shaft can move laterally it certainly could allow the counter weights on the crank shaft to contact the projections on the stuffer.

I remember one old kart engine I had (actually on a kart!) with .020 or .030 movement of the crank shaft. When it lost spark I wasn't clever enough to figure out how to fix it in those days. Seems to me it was a Mac 6 so the stuffer was more like the one you'd find on a saw.

Mark

 

[promac850]

There is very little clearance in the bottom end of a kart engine to insure a high pressure charge in the bottom end of the crank case.

If the crank shaft can move laterally it certainly could allow the counter weights on the crank shaft to contact the projections on the stuffer.

I remember one old kart engine I had (actually on a kart!) with .020 or .030 movement of the crank shaft. When it lost spark I wasn't clever enough to figure out how to fix it in those days. Seems to me it was a Mac 6 so the stuffer was more like the one you'd find on a saw.

Mark

I see... that makes sense that since it is a kart engine, with a crankcase filling stuffer, and said enigne would hate having a loose crank. Thanks for explaining.

 

[rwoods]

There is very little clearance in the bottom end of a kart engine to insure a high pressure charge in the bottom end of the crank case.

If the crank shaft can move laterally it certainly could allow the counter weights on the crank shaft to contact the projections on the stuffer.

I remember one old kart engine I had (actually on a kart!) with .020 or .030 movement of the crank shaft. When it lost spark I wasn't clever enough to figure out how to fix it in those days. Seems to me it was a Mac 6 so the stuffer was more like the one you'd find on a saw.

Mark

Mark, does this translate into a bearing job or bearings and a crank? I bet if it started it would make a lot of racket when turned on its side. Thanks, Ron

 

[heimannm]

Ron, you may want to try to check the end play of the crank shaft to make sure that it where the trouble is originating, sure sounds like it is. I'm not sure the best course of action, but it might be easiest to start by removing the oil tank and stuffer to see if you can detect signs of contact.

While it is off, try cranking it over carefully and see it you can detect any other possible contact or obstructions.

Mark

 

[cpr]

Pull the oil tank and stuffer. Check the stuffer for scuff marks, then check that, when laid on it's side, the rod isn't moving and contacting beyond the blockwall rod clearance relief grind. If it's hitting there, you'd notice the resistance during the early part of the compression stroke.

 

[heimannm]

Ron, go to CPR's McCulloch Algebra thread for some photo's of what to expect inside, and for the other area of possible contact between the rod/bolts and the crank case.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Guys, thanks for all the help. This is beginning to sound like a project instead of a "tune-up". I'm a little disappointed because I thought it would be a good runner in keeping with the compression it shows. I know this isn't rocket science nor beyond my ability with your good advice to fix but we are all wired differently - it bothers me that I already have two saws completely a part in boxes - the thought of adding a third (especially this one) troubles me given my limited free time and interest. So I've been searching the vintage kart threads tonight without success for a engine builder. I figured every experienced MAC guy on AS has more than enough of their own stuff to do without taking on outside work. Any suggestions/recommendations for a engine builder? Thanks, Ron

 

[Horsepower]

Super 10-10 parts source needed

Been hunting all over the net looking for a source for some parts for my Super 10-10. Not having much luck looking in the right places. Need the manual oil pump. Bore of the pump has a groove worn in it by the thumb push rod being off-center because of a broken end cap. Anyone know of a source for the pump or of a parts saw I could get one from?

They sure don't make it easy to get to that pump-darn near had to take every bolt on that saw apart to get at it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[mactodd]

How many do ya need? The manual pump is probably the MOST durable piece on a 10 series saw. I got plenty of carcasses.:msp_biggrin:

Been hunting all over the net looking for a source for some parts for my Super 10-10. Not having much luck looking in the right places. Need the manual oil pump. Bore of the pump has a groove worn in it by the thumb push rod being off-center because of a broken end cap. Anyone know of a source for the pump or of a parts saw I could get one from?

They sure don't make it easy to get to that pump-darn near had to take every bolt on that saw apart to get at it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[rwoods]

Ron, you may want to try to check the end play of the crank shaft to make sure that it where the trouble is originating, sure sounds like it is. I'm not sure the best course of action, but it might be easiest to start by removing the oil tank and stuffer to see if you can detect signs of contact.

While it is off, try cranking it over carefully and see it you can detect any other possible contact or obstructions.

Mark

Pull the oil tank and stuffer. Check the stuffer for scuff marks, then check that, when laid on it's side, the rod isn't moving and contacting beyond the blockwall rod clearance relief grind. If it's hitting there, you'd notice the resistance during the early part of the compression stroke.

Ron, go to CPR's McCulloch Algebra thread for some photo's of what to expect inside, and for the other area of possible contact between the rod/bolts and the crank case.

Mark

I've calmed down a little since my last post; I would just rather be cutting than wrenching. I'll pull the oil tank and take a peek later this week. Thanks for your patience and good advice. If you haven't, check out McBob's contributions to CPR's thread. Ron

 

[Horsepower]

How many do ya need? The manual pump is probably the MOST durable piece on a 10 series saw. I got plenty of carcasses.:msp_biggrin:

The previous one has lasted forty years. If the next lasts half that long it will probably out do me. One useable pump will get the saw running again. Are the manual pumps all the same on these Super 10-10's? I think there are two different main automatic pumps. Mine has the older style that is not adjustable. Would it be possible for you to post a picture of the manual pump and end cap to see if it is the same as my old one? Or are they all the same?
Thanks for all the help mactodd.
Horsepower

 

[mactodd]

I'm pretty sure the manual pumps are all the same, but I'll try to get a pic up tonite. I've never seen a non adjustable auto oiler on a 10 series, but I know there are a couple different styles as far as mounting in the tank goes.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Hey guys, just wondering what your opinions are on this matter...


I recently got in a 7-10A, which is a good runner and is a saw I have sincere interest into getting into good reliable condition.

Since I don't have the specific IPLs handy I may need a little guidance on this matter.


It's a shame this happened, but nonetheless it is the way it is, I went to mount a bar on it yesterday morning so I could make my first cuts with it and the bar stud fell down into the oil tank! Upon further inspection the oil tank was cracked across both bar studs.


Will an oil tank from a 1-10 mount right up? How involved is the actual task of switching the two pieces around? Any tips or tricks to this?


Thank you,


Chris

 

[Ambull]

OOOO oOOOOH I know the answer to that one......

Mine had the exact same problem. Go figure.... lol. Be very careful, because the different oil tanks have subtle differences, and the first replacement I got did not match up with the mount for the wrap around handle. I JB welded the first oil tank, and it seems good, but I bought another anyway. PM me and I will gladly send you my repaired one if you want it.

It is pretty crazy replacing these, as you have to crack the case right along the crank to replace. My surgery went without a hitch, so it's not too bad.

Best of luck,