McCulloch Chain Saws

[Ambull]

Hmmmm, maybe I'll JB it, and if it fails I will replace the part. It's a hairline crack, but just enough.

I was looking at some 10-10 IPLs and saw how the case needed split. It looked a little hairy to me, but I reckon I'll give it a shot.

Is there a gasket between the two halves?
.

No gasket on mine, just some RTV. I repeated the RTV, and it seemed to seal just fine.

When repairing the crack, I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a groove along the crack. That gives the JB weld a bit more to adhere to. I think it would have worked.

I believe the oil tank cracks when the saw is run with the bar nuts too loose.

 

[promac850]

No gasket on mine, just some RTV. I repeated the RTV, and it seemed to seal just fine.

When repairing the crack, I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a groove along the crack. That gives the JB weld a bit more to adhere to. I think it would have worked.

I believe the oil tank cracks when the saw is run with the bar nuts too loose.

One more reason to 'farmer tighten' them bar nutz...

No, I don't crank on them that hard, but I don't leave no slack either... I make them work a little to keep that bar on...

 

[heimannm]

Ron, the hammer operated impact wrench is probably the best bet. If you don't have one already, even the cheaper version would likely serve you very well as you continue working on saws.

Since that is a 10-24 screw, the hex head is normally 5/16" across the flats, but some of the older saws had a couple of special 1/4" head "sealing screws" in two holes that go through the the crank case.

If it is (was) 5/16" then a 7 mm socket if you have one would be nearly 0.040" smaller and would be a very tight fit indeed if you could even succeed in hammering the socket in place.

I would be very leary about trying any welding in that area, probably better to carefully drill or grind the head off and see what you can do with the remaining "stud".

Mark

 

[rwoods]

you might be able to get away with some JB weld and a POS socket you have laying around (or at the pawn shop) glob the JB on, hammer on the socket and wait a while.

You don't happen to have an impact screwdriver, do you? They are a good thing to have around - basically you hit it with a hammer which causes the bit to turn a little, applying SIGNIFICANT downward pressure as it turns.
A Klein
A cheaper one - $7

Thanks. I had one years ago but no more. Read on:

Ron, the hammer operated impact wrench is probably the best bet. If you don't have one already, even the cheaper version would likely serve you very well as you continue working on saws.

Since that is a 10-24 screw, the hex head is normally 5/16" across the flats, but some of the older saws had a couple of special 1/4" head "sealing screws" in two holes that go through the the crank case.

If it is (was) 5/16" then a 7 mm socket if you have one would be nearly 0.040" smaller and would be a very tight fit indeed if you could even succeed in hammering the socket in place.

I would be very leary about trying any welding in that area, probably better to carefully drill or grind the head off and see what you can do with the remaining "stud".

Mark

It is going to the machine shop in the morning. I can't get a 7mm on it. I can hammer a 8mm on as well as a 5/16" after boogering the sides up with a homemade chisel but it won't hold.

But I did discover the source of the binding: the rod is binding on the crank. It slides to the side when the saw is turned on its side. It is really bad flywheel down - you can almost completely stick the piston but with your thumb you can snap the rod over to the center of the crank journal and it frees up. What does this mean: new rod bearings or something more?

Any trick to removing harden pitch besides a hammer and screwdriver? I don't know what kept this saw from burning up as the fins are full and everything is covered in harden pitch that won't scrape off. You have to chisel it and it will breaks off in chunks.

I discovered that the cylinder has a broken fin; one corner is gone from the fin immediately below the head. It's a pretty big piece but I don't know what I can do about it since it is missing. I guess I'll just get it going again and hope it doesn't overheat.

Thanks again for the good advice, Ron

 

[promac850]

Thanks. I had one years ago but no more. Read on:



It is going to the machine shop in the morning. I can't get a 7mm on it. I can hammer a 8mm on as well as a 5/16" after boogering the sides up with a homemade chisel but it won't hold.

But I did discover the source of the binding: the rod is binding on the crank. It slides to the side when the saw is turned on its side. It is really bad flywheel down - you can almost completely stick the piston but with your thumb you can snap the rod over to the center of the crank journal and it frees up. What does this mean: new rod bearings or something more?

Any trick to removing harden pitch besides a hammer and screwdriver? I don't know what kept this saw from burning up as the fins are full and everything is covered in harden pitch that won't scrape off. You have to chisel it and it will breaks off in chunks.

I discovered that the cylinder has a broken fin; one corner is gone from the fin immediately below the head. It's a pretty big piece but I don't know what I can do about it since it is missing. I guess I'll just get it going again and hope it doesn't overheat.

Thanks again for the good advice, Ron

Let some paint thinner sit on that pitch for a while... brush it on with an old paintbrush. It'll work a bit faster than just scraping it off.

If you happen to have a little parts washer, well, you're in luck... if you don't consider buying some little cheapo 3.5 gallon parts washer from HF or the like... cheap, for less than 60 bucks, I had my whole parts washer whirlygig going. Makes cleaning the parts a little more fun, as you may have to dodge random droplets of paint thinner that are redirected to your face thanks to the part you're cleaning...

It makes dispensing and reuse of the paint thinner easier and much more efficient.

I've left parts brushed down with paint thinner in the parts washer over night with the pump off, just letting it sit and absorb the fumes and let the paint thinner work its way through all of the crud.

Next morning, most of the stuff came right off with some brushing.

Ah, I could go on all day (night...) about parts washers.

 

[heimannm]

I have no experience with the 101, but have to wonder if it was supposed to have thrust washers on the top end of the connecting rod to keep it properly centered?

Looking at my list of spec's I don't any mention of 101's with thrust washers but who knows?

Mark

 

[rwoods]

I have no experience with the 101, but have to wonder if it was supposed to have thrust washers on the top end of the connecting rod to keep it properly centered?

Looking at my list of spec's I don't any mention of 101's with thrust washers but who knows?

Mark

Mark, the IPL doesn't show any washers. Just has bearings in piston and bearings at crank end. I assume the wrist pin is pressed into the rod. Maybe there is just too much combined slop that results in the rod "leaning". I'll post this over in the kart thrread and see what they say. Ron

 

[Horsepower]

10 Series Manual Oil Pump

mactodd - Yesss, we have a winner! Mine is identical to the one on the left ( the older than dirt 10-10). Lets make a deal. Send me a PM with the info.
This site amazes me with the infinite resources and help that is available.
Thanks,
Horsepower

 

[cpr]

I just went out and looked at the one I have open Ron. No thrust washers up there, but then this one has an aftermarket rod in it. I can manually move the rod to either side of the crank journal, but in just rotating it over by hand, it doesn't go there. With this H beam rod, there's not much clearance between the counter weights and the rod anyway, if it did go sideways, she's going bang quite spectacularly. My guess is the wrist pin/rod is worn out. Since you'd have to pull the crank to fix it, new crank bearings couldn't hurt.

That sucks, I feel for you, but I also know that if you feel about these the way I do, it'll be worth the wait to have the satisfaction of knowing it is right.

 

[HeRoze]

===
Any trick to removing harden pitch besides a hammer and screwdriver?===

Let some paint thinner sit on that pitch for a while... brush it on with an old paintbrush. It'll work a bit faster than just scraping it off.

If you happen to have a little parts washer, well, you're in luck...===

Instant parts washer: Chem Dip

It ain't what it used to be now that it is "California compliant" but it works, and the can re-seals nicely so it lasts forever, although big hunks of pitch may make it a one-time show. One word of caution - after you rinse the parts off from soaking in the dip overnight, hit them with some WD-40 or dunk them in some diesel. Any iron parts will flash rust if you don't.

Easy-off oven cleaner works quite well too. Someone here turned me on to that... It does work nicely, but the spray/respray gets old.

Another cheap alternative is to get some diesel fuel (less BOOM than gasoline) and let it soak for a while in a plastic bucket.

Diesel is my default cleaner for everything... I'm hooked on the stuff. But in this case, I think the Chem Dip is the ticket, but no guarantees. Pine pitch is a ##### -- ooo I made a rhyme.

 

[cpr]

Instant parts washer: Chem Dip

It ain't what it used to be now that it is "California compliant" but it works, and the can re-seals nicely so it lasts forever. Big hunks of pitch may make it a one-time show.

Easy-off oven cleaner works quite well too. Someone here turned me on to that... It does work nicely, but the spray/respray gets old.

Another cheap alternative is to get some diesel fuel (less BOOM than gasoline) and let it soak for a while in a plastic bucket.

Diesel is my default cleaner for everything... I'm hooked on the stuff. But in this case, I think the Chem Dip is the ticket, but no guarantees. Pine pitch is a ##### -- ooo I made a rhyme.

Uh! I have a can of the vintage stuff. It does work, but holy crap does it STINK! Takes a full day of DL and Fast Orange to get the smell off my hands.

 

[HeRoze]

Uh! I have a can of the vintage stuff. It does work, but holy crap does it STINK! Takes a full day of DL and Fast Orange to get the smell off my hands.

If I had only known what they were going to change it to I would have never thrown a can away in the past... it still works, but it has definately lost some zip.

 

[Eccentric]

I have a 20+ year old can of the 'good stuff' that I've saved for 'special' jobs. Also have a 5 year old can of the 'detuned' Ca legal stuff for more mild cleaning. Smells better.....:cool2:

 

[CM76]

Grabbed this one a while back - it is an 890 which has been used and abused in its lifetime. It has a number of missing and damaged parts, but the engine appears sound and has monster compression. I will have to go through some of Lees amazing Mac geardrive rebuilds to gather some inspiration for this one! For now she will be relegated to the shelf for a rainy day.

Regards,

Chris.

 

[rwoods]

kart saw

The machine shop got the cheapo bolt out for me today, but I still can't remove the crankcase cover due to the liberal use of silicone sealant. Carb cleaner which eats up the handles on my Craftsman screwdrivers doesn't even dent this stuff. According to the GE website nothing will dissolve silicone chalk. I found a site for some stuff that is suppose to break the bond but it isn't recommended for aluminum. I have tried to pry it loose but it won't budge. I'm afraid with any more pressure I'll break the cover. Any ideas?

I bought a can of cleaner suggested by Heroze. It along with a spray can of carb cleaner is making a real dent in the baked on grime. Thanks for the suggestion, Heroze.

I believe the saw has been bored as I'm getting readings in the 2.33range and the block is stamped .050.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

Ron,

Take a look at the photo below. Look carefully and you will find two tapped holes in the cover, insert a couple of screws and use your puller.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark, what would I do without you? Makes me hope for a BP-1 barn find for you even more. Thanks, Ron

 

[cpr]

Grabbed this one a while back - it is an 890 which has been used and abused in its lifetime. It has a number of missing and damaged parts, but the engine appears sound and has monster compression. I will have to go through some of Lees amazing Mac geardrive rebuilds to gather some inspiration for this one! For now she will be relegated to the shelf for a rainy day.

Regards,

Chris.

Is it just me or is the duckbill in the fuel cap upside down? How the heck would it run like that?

 

[heimannm]

I expect the duck bill and filter were missing and some one stuck a piece of a rag or a chunk of carved wood or a bit of plastic in there, I have received a few like that.

Mark

 

[CM76]

Is it just me or is the duckbill in the fuel cap upside down? How the heck would it run like that?

Thats not a duckbill - it is an old piece of plastic that someone has jammed in the hole in the top of the cap. Who knows how long it has been in there.

Regards,

Chris.