McCulloch Chain Saws

[wendell]

I got the 250 put back together today, new carb kit, fuel lines, fuel filter and a sparkly new tank. A little shot of fuel in the carb to prime and got it to fire for a few seconds and then nothing. At first had it at 1 turn out on both screws and then tried 1 1/4.

I'm quite sure the carb kit went in correctly but I suppose I may have done it wrong. I didn't have my compression tester with me but I think it should be sufficient. I don't have the capability to do a leak down test but could the crank seals be so bad the saw won't even fire?

Anything else I should be looking at?

 

[Eccentric]

I got the 250 put back together today, new carb kit, fuel lines, fuel filter and a sparkly new tank. A little shot of fuel in the carb to prime and got it to fire for a few seconds and then nothing. At first had it at 1 turn out on both screws and then tried 1 1/4.

I'm quite sure the carb kit went in correctly but I suppose I may have done it wrong. I didn't have my compression tester with me but I think it should be sufficient. I don't have the capability to do a leak down test but could the crank seals be so bad the saw won't even fire?

Anything else I should be looking at?

You'll have to do the "prime and pop" thing several times to get the fuel pumped up from the tank to the carb. The total line length (from filter to carb) is close to a foot on these saws, and has more volume to fill (due to the larger line ID) than lines on most modern saws. In my experience, it works a bit better/faster if you have the tank at least 1/2 full.

 

[wendell]

Thanks! Is there something that works well to squirt the fuel in? I'm thinking one of those water bottles we had in high school chemistry would be handy but don't know where you'd find one.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks! Is there something that works well to squirt the fuel in? I'm thinking one of those water bottles we had in high school chemistry would be handy but don't know where you'd find one.

I like to use a plastic spray bottle from wally world. I can adjust the 'spray pattern' so it's not just a fat stream. Gas kills them after a while however. Usually the pump siezes up from the plastic parts swelling. I can get months of good service out them though. The other disadvantage is you can't tip the bottle sideways (to spray into the carb throat) without the dip tube in the bottle sucking air. I just roll the saw to the left (while tipping the bar down a bit) for a straight shot down the carb. Right hand on the rear handle, holding the throttle wide open (with the choke open too) so the gas can shoot right on through. I usually give it three to six or so good shots.

Other guys use a plunger type oil can with a flexible spout. Only thing I don't like about those is that the gas just shoots out as a stream instead of a 'thick fog' like I prefer (more like what comes outa the carb). Bit less likely to flood the saw. I'm going to get one of those oil cans (they're cheap at Harbor Freight) and see if I can modify (squish) the nozzle to get a better spray pattern...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I like to use a plastic spray bottle from wally world. I can adjust the 'spray pattern' so it's not just a fat stream. Gas kills them after a while however. Usually the pump siezes up from the plastic parts swelling. I can get months of good service out them though. The other disadvantage is you can't tip the bottle sideways (to spray into the carb throat) without the dip tube in the bottle sucking air. I just roll the saw to the left (while tipping the bar down a bit) for a straight shot down the carb. Right hand on the rear handle, holding the throttle wide open (with the choke open too) so the gas can shoot right on through. I usually give it three to six or so good shots.

Other guys use a plunger type oil can with a flexible spout. Only thing I don't like about those is that the gas just shoots out as a stream instead of a 'thick fog' like I prefer (more like what comes outa the carb). Bit less likely to flood the saw. I'm going to get one of those oil cans (they're cheap at Harbor Freight) and see if I can modify (squish) the nozzle to get a better spray pattern...

I found one of the old catsup/mustard squirters like they use in restaurants only mine has a smaller nozzle. I've used it for several years with no problem.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I got the 250 put back together today, new carb kit, fuel lines, fuel filter and a sparkly new tank. A little shot of fuel in the carb to prime and got it to fire for a few seconds and then nothing. At first had it at 1 turn out on both screws and then tried 1 1/4.

I'm quite sure the carb kit went in correctly but I suppose I may have done it wrong. I didn't have my compression tester with me but I think it should be sufficient. I don't have the capability to do a leak down test but could the crank seals be so bad the saw won't even fire?

Anything else I should be looking at?

On a saw of mine the other day I did like you did, increasing the turns out, then realized I might be going the wrong way. I turned it IN to about 3/4 and it fired right up. Not saying that's the case here but might be worth a try.

 

[heimannm]

On Priming

I find sometimes it takes two or three primes before it is pulling fuel on it's own. I use a "piston oiler" and give it at least 3-4 good squirts. Often it will pop once then be flooded, a couple more pulls with the throttle wide open and it will run the prime out. If it doesn't pull fuel on it's own by then, try it again. In some cases it may take a few more tries if everything was dry.

RE: Purple Power, I get mine at WalMart, some is called Purple Power and another is Super Clean in a purple bottle. Next time you are at Menards ask again, and if the guy (or gal) just points instead of walking you over to the right place be aware, if they catch them doing that on the store cameras, employees have been know to get fired!

Mark

 

[heimannm]

RE: D-36 Starter Parts

For ChainsawmanXX - Have a look at these photo's and see if there are any other parts you need. The pinion gear I have is not pristine but is should work. Do you have the driving pin, spring, starter drum, etc.

Mark

 

[wendell]

Next time you are at Menards ask again, and if the guy (or gal) just points instead of walking you over to the right place be aware, if they catch them doing that on the store cameras, employees have been know to get fired!

Mark

The guy at Menard's was great, we looked through the cleaners together and then through commercial and then we went to a computer and he tried to look it up there. Didn't come up under Purple Power so he looked through every cleaner listed.

I know some people don't like Menard's but I certainly find that their employee's at least try harder than most any big store you go into.

And thanks for everyone's advice on priming. I really can't wait to get this saw running!

 

[heimannm]

I do a lot of shopping at Menards, they frequently have the best prices on lots of supplies I use like glue, sand paper, screws, plumbing supplies, bar oil, mineral spirits, etc. I find you are often taking a crap shoot asking for help though, some times you catch a break and get some one knowledgeable, other times the guy (or gal) walks to where you have just been looking for said supplies and studies the same rack to determine they don't have what you want.

There was an incident (reportedly) at a Menards where a customer asked for an item, the asked employee pointed the customer in the direction but didn't walk them over, the whole sequence was caught on store cameras, and the employee was fired. Not sure it if happened but for a while, if you asked about an item they would walk you over. Not sure what the policy is today...

While your employee did an admirable job of looking for Purple Power, they may and lacked the creativity to find another product that is very similar, like the Super Clean.

Mark

 

[wendell]

Well, I will cut him some slack on not knowing about the similar product since I believe he actually works in Electrical.

 

[TN-ELK]

Teddy
here's the pics. Holler at me.View attachment 189739View attachment 189740

For all you MAC guys out there, here's a couple of pics. of pistons that I came across at an antique store a few weeks ago. They were in a display, which I am keeping. I have no need for them myself. If anyone on the forum is interested in them please PM me soon. Otherwise, They will go to the Bay. I prefer to sale them as a lot. Most of them seem to be for large cube saws. All but one are NOS. I also have 8-10 NOS sprockets for large MAC & Homelite saws (most are Windsor brand still in the box). The Mac coil in the pic will go with the pistons. All offers considered. I'd rather see one of you guys gettem than go the Fleabay route. Please PM me.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

For all you MAC guys out there, here's a couple of pics. of pistons that I came across at an antique store a few weeks ago. They were in a display, which I am keeping. I have no need for them myself. If anyone on the forum is interested in them please PM me soon. Otherwise, They will go to the Bay. I prefer to sale them as a lot. Most of them seem to be for large cube saws. All but one are NOS. I also have 8-10 NOS sprockets for large MAC & Homelite saws (most are Windsor brand still in the box). The Mac coil in the pic will go with the pistons. All offers considered. I'd rather see one of you guys gettem than go the Fleabay route. Please PM me.

That 58878A is for the 1-76, wish I would've known about this before I bought mine a few months ago.


Chris

 

[heimannm]

52379 is for the 33/35 model saws

58878 is for the 1-76, 740/840 thick ring version

No ideas for 46.65 mm or F24062

I can't find a reference for 48843 or 55259, still checking other resources though.

Part number for the coil laminations?

Mark

 

[Duke Thieroff]

52379 is for the 33/35 model saws

58878 is for the 1-76, 740/840 thick ring version

No ideas for 46.65 mm or F24062

I can't find a reference for 48843 or 55259, still checking other resources though.

Part number for the coil laminations?

Mark

Odd to see that the 33/35 52379 is a domed piston.

Most Mac pistons I have seen have been flat tops.


Chris

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch 33, from August 1953; Figure 5, Item 16, old part number was 36002.

I'm not sure when the part numbers were updated, note the three rings on the early versions.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Mark

 

[TN-ELK]

52379 is for the 33/35 model saws

58878 is for the 1-76, 740/840 thick ring version

No ideas for 46.65 mm or F24062

I can't find a reference for 48843 or 55259, still checking other resources though.

Part number for the coil laminations?

Mark

Can't remember if the number on the coil box is still legible or not. I'll check it out tonight. Should/could there be any numbers on the coil itself?

 

[TN-ELK]

Odd to see that the 33/35 52379 is a domed piston.

Most Mac pistons I have seen have been flat tops.


Chris

That domed piston also comes with a complete rod. It looks used but is in excellent condition. I did not think to include it in the picture.

 

[TN-ELK]

52379 is for the 33/35 model saws

58878 is for the 1-76, 740/840 thick ring version

No ideas for 46.65 mm or F24062

I can't find a reference for 48843 or 55259, still checking other resources though.

Part number for the coil laminations?

Mark

Laminated coil MAC part# 51251