McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brushwacker]

PM 700 leaks oil when set on side ?

1 of the 700's I recently bought leaks oil fairly fast sometimes when I put it on its side to fill the oil resivoir.
Doesn't seem to be all the time, I did fill it to the rim once and it set a day or 2 upright without any apparant oil leakage. I took it to the woods last night and checked the oil level before starting it, had it on its side about 15-20 seconds and it looked like it lost a good 1/2 oz. or more of oil in that time.
Not sure what the vent is supposed to look like, but it looks identical to the other which I never had the problem with. I think the oil is coming through the passage from the pump but not sure. It oils the bar fine cutting big dead wood.
So, do I have a problem, or is it just glitch that sometimes happens with theses saws ?

 

[Warped5]

So by metering lever you mean the the fork that runs the needle valve from the diaphragm? I messed with that a bit and seemed to help.

On Stinkbait's advice, I did get a '10-10 conversion kit' off fleaBay. The included carb has all the adjustment needles we are used to and the adjustable high needle opens up the 81 a good deal according to him. My project has been slowed finishing the painting and reassembly do to some 'life events' over here ....

 

[rwoods]

Sounds like you got the fixed high jet carb...

If the metering lever in the carb is not set right, it will either be too lean, or too rich.

Ron will be able to tell you everything you might want to know about these Macs.

Not this Ron. True, I have studied the IPL for most of the 82ccs and I have owned most of them but I don't know much about fixing one, especially the carb. My IPL shows two carbs for the SP81E both of which have adjustable jets - high & low; a SDC 38A and a HS 111A. Ron

 

[promac850]

So by metering lever you mean the the fork that runs the needle valve from the diaphragm? I messed with that a bit and seemed to help.

Yep, precisely what I am talking about.

Not this Ron. True, I have studied the IPL for most of the 82ccs and I have owned most of them but I don't know much about fixing one, especially the carb. My IPL shows two carbs for the SP81E both of which have adjustable jets - high & low; a SDC 38A and a HS 111A. Ron

I stand corrected. I do know that you know a lot about these Macs compared to say... me, and some other hooligans around here...

 

[Eccentric]

Hi all,
I am still working on an 81E, rebuilt the carb, and it just seems to flood and run real rich. Now I got to thinking it may not be the right carb. The one on there has a single screw and I can not lean it out enough with out running out of idle adjustment. Any thoughts or does any one know what carb came with these saws? If I lean it out so that the chain flies around the bar it will just dig in and cut great but.......

Thanks
In advance
Dave

Sounds like you got the fixed high jet carb...

If the metering lever in the carb is not set right, it will either be too lean, or too rich.

Ron will be able to tell you everything you might want to know about these Macs.

Heres the IPL
Get the PN off the carb and you should be able to tell if its the right carb if im not mistaken there was a couple of carbs that went on the 800/81/850?

So by metering lever you mean the the fork that runs the needle valve from the diaphragm? I messed with that a bit and seemed to help.

On Stinkbait's advice, I did get a '10-10 conversion kit' off fleaBay. The included carb has all the adjustment needles we are used to and the adjustable high needle opens up the 81 a good deal according to him. My project has been slowed finishing the painting and reassembly do to some 'life events' over here ....

Not this Ron. True, I have studied the IPL for most of the 82ccs and I have owned most of them but I don't know much about fixing one, especially the carb. My IPL shows two carbs for the SP81E both of which have adjustable jets - high & low; a SDC 38A and a HS 111A. Ron

I agree with you's guys here. The metering lever setting is the only way to control the H speed mixture on the fixed H-side Walbro SDC's (other than changing out the fixed jet in the carb.....stock is J-29 on my saw). There are two little 'flats' cast into the metering chamber of the carb. THAT'S where you take your metering lever setting measurement from. Download the SDC manual from the Walbro site for instructions on setting the metering lever height.

In my SP-80/81/81E IPL, there are three different carbs. The Walbro SDC38A and Tillotson HS111A that Ron mentioned with adjustable L and H sides, plus the SDC51A with the fixed H-side. I've never seen the HS111A 'in person' on these saws, so they must've only installed a few when the SDC's were not on the shelf. That's my theory anyway. My SP-81 has the fixed H-side SDC51A right now. Runs well, but I haven't cut much with it yet. Still sorting out a fuel line issue. Installed a brand new aftermarket line................................and it STILL leaks a bit around the line at the fuel tank/carb box pass-thru hole. I made sure to set the metering lever right. I may swap in a fully adjustable SDC38A or Tilly HS111A at some point, but the fixed jet carb is running well enough for me (at this point) that a swap isn't high on my priority list.

There was also a Zama carb (or multiple Zama carbs) used on some later PM800/850/DE80/etc variations of this saw family. I thankfully haven't had to mess with 'em. I'm not a Zama fan. If anyone wants a copy of my SP-80/81/81E IPL, PM me with your email address. The same PDF also has the CP125/CP125S/SP125/SP125C IPL's. Handy......

 

[HeRoze]

[video=youtube_share;qXH5Bwj9Hqc]http://youtu.be/qXH5Bwj9Hqc[/video]

nice chip fall!

 

[joeymt33]

I've got a "new to me problem". I'm working on a 7-10 that runs and cuts great but it won't idle for long. It will start out idling good for about 5 seconds then it starts to miss and smoke like it's rich and then eventually die. Also, after the saw sits for about an hour there is fuel dripping from the muffler. It will run all the fuel from the tank out the muffler. When i try to start the saw after it has set awhile it will blow alot of fuel out the muffler. I removed the carb and disassembled but couldn't find a problem. I still feel like the problem is in the carb but i could use some help. Thanks.

 

[splitpost]

I've got a "new to me problem". I'm working on a 7-10 that runs and cuts great but it won't idle for long. It will start out idling good for about 5 seconds then it starts to miss and smoke like it's rich and then eventually die. Also, after the saw sits for about an hour there is fuel dripping from the muffler. It will run all the fuel from the tank out the muffler. When i try to start the saw after it has set awhile it will blow alot of fuel out the muffler. I removed the carb and disassembled but couldn't find a problem. I still feel like the problem is in the carb but i could use some help. Thanks.

sounds like needle and seat need replacing

 

[Eccentric]

I've got a "new to me problem". I'm working on a 7-10 that runs and cuts great but it won't idle for long. It will start out idling good for about 5 seconds then it starts to miss and smoke like it's rich and then eventually die. Also, after the saw sits for about an hour there is fuel dripping from the muffler. It will run all the fuel from the tank out the muffler. When i try to start the saw after it has set awhile it will blow alot of fuel out the muffler. I removed the carb and disassembled but couldn't find a problem. I still feel like the problem is in the carb but i could use some help. Thanks.

sounds like needle and seat need replacing

It does sound like a metering circuit issue. Could be a bad metering diaphragm, bad needle (the seats aren't replaceable on SDC's), crap in the needle/seat area keeping it from closing, the 'stud' on the metering diaphragm not propperly engaged in the metering lever fork, or an incorrect metering lever height adjustment. Could be a combination of a couple things there too. Dig back into it.....

 

[joeymt33]

The seat looked good as best I could tell with a small flash light. The needle how ever had a slightly blunt end instead of a sharp end. I changed it out with another one and the saw still runs good. I will let it sit over night with a full tank and see if it still drinks fuel. Thanks

 

[joeymt33]

By the way, what would be max rpm no load on this? It seemed to run fast so I checked it with a fast tach today after making about five cuts in about 18" wood and it would peak around 11500- 11800. That seems too fast to me but maybe I'm wrong. I took it down to 11200 and it didn't want to smooth out in the cut so I put back.

 

[Eccentric]

These old saws aren't meant to be tuned with a tach. Adjust the H-side so it burbles ('four strokes') at WOT out of the cut, but just cleans up when loaded down in the cut. Save the tach for the modern saws...

 

[longbar]

Did the Super Pro 105's come with a Tilly that only had 1 needle to adjust? The guy i got it from said it was used to race but I dont think he knew what he was talking about. Also where do you guys get your maintenance parts for these? I need a intake boot and havent found one everywhere Ive looked.

 

[jeff76]

Did the Super Pro 105's come with a Tilly that only had 1 needle to adjust? The guy i got it from said it was used to race but I dont think he knew what he was talking about. Also where do you guys get your maintenance parts for these? I need a intake boot and havent found one everywhere Ive looked.

Those boots seem to be hard to come by. I've been looking for one for my sp125 also, with no luck. If you go back a few pages, you'll see where I asked a similar question. Mark replied with a stihl part that can be modified to work. He even attached a picture of the two side by side. If you find a place to get mcculloch ones and they have more, let me know.

Jeff

 

[longbar]

Those boots seem to be hard to come by. I've been looking for one for my sp125 also, with no luck. If you go back a few pages, you'll see where I asked a similar question. Mark replied with a stihl part that can be modified to work. He even attached a picture of the two side by side. If you find a place to get mcculloch ones and they have more, let me know.

Jeff

10-4 brother, otherwise I thought about Permatex gasket sealant, and just coating the boot. But, if Mark said the stihl boot will work Im sure it will.

Erik

 

[jeff76]

10-4 brother, otherwise I thought about Permatex gasket sealant, and just coating the boot. But, if Mark said the stihl boot will work Im sure it will.

Erik

Mine has a small split or crack in it. We use a glue (made by loctite I believe) at work that is used to splice o-rings together. I'm tempted to try that on the boot as a temporary repair. I also wondered about permatex sealant like you mentioned. I was hoping to stay original, but the stihl part might be the easier way out.

Jeff

 

[Ambull]

From my experience with Mac's, I am amazed at the quality of rubber that they used. Most original fuel lines, boots, etc are still intact, even from saws from the 50's. Homelite is the exact opposite. Often the rubber has turned to goo, and it tears really easily. AV Homeys almost always have torn or dissolved intake boots, and the rubber linkage seals are always gone. That is probably why there are not any Mac boots available, because they didn't break often, so nobody stocked them.

 

[stubnail67]

hello...

hello so i picked up my first mac today.... its apro mac super 40... what can you guys tell me about these saws? i see it has dual rings this saw the piston is in good shape i took it all apart cleaned it took the carb apart carefully cleaned it it defintly need a carb kit.... i only saw zama c1u on it whats the number for this carb kit?i replaced the fuel line on it it fires with a prime . i used a clear line its not pulling fuel at all but if you take the line off and open the tank and drop the line fuel comes out... so im sure it its a carb thing...im used to poulans this thing had me swearing trying to get the throttle linkage right LOL finally got it... is it one turn out on the low screw it only has a low and an idle screw... thanks for any help Paul.

 

[Warped5]

hello so i picked up my first mac today.... its apro mac super 40... what can you guys tell me about these saws? i see it has dual rings this saw the piston is in good shape i took it all apart cleaned it took the carb apart carefully cleaned it it defintly need a carb kit.... i only saw zama c1u on it whats the number for this carb kit?i replaced the fuel line on it it fires with a prime . i used a clear line its not pulling fuel at all but if you take the line off and open the tank and drop the line fuel comes out... so im sure it its a carb thing...im used to poulans this thing had me swearing trying to get the throttle linkage right LOL finally got it... is it one turn out on the low screw it only has a low and an idle screw... thanks for any help Paul.

Please post pix, so we can get a clearer idea of what you have ...

The carby kit (RB-82) is about $14 on fleaBay right now. If you have a distributor shop near you it should be a bit less.

Waitin' for pix ..... opcorn:

 

[wendell]

this thing had me swearing trying to get the throttle linkage right LOL finally got it...

Join the club. I spent my day getting abused by my McCullochs also.