McCulloch Chain Saws

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The Oregon Steam-up

IMHO one of the best tractor shows and displays in the Northwest, I found a nice loop of 1/2" chain, the only thing was it was attached to an old mac 35 ( I think that's the model) the old girl fired up and ran after some tinkering. Quite an interesting design, very different than anything I have ever seen or worked on.

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Found another yellow saw, just not Mcculloch yellow. She's 6 cubes and runs pretty good. And It has a kickstand.

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PM1000 Manual

Good morning, gents!

Anyone have an operator manual for a PM1000?
(Yes, this has been posted over in the 'beg for manuals' thread ...)

Thanks!
 
Heroze, thanks, it's only taken 20 yrs or so to aquire the equipment.
My Dad's property, He's 87 yrs and doesn't look forward to making firewood as much as I do. So I try to help out as much as I can. We used to pull wood with and old Ford 8N, and that was really a pain in the A$$. I guess it worked OK on flat ground, not much flat ground with trees on his property.....
 
PM1000 Question

I recently acquired a pm1000 and I have a question. There is an ignitor(part# 325536) on this saw that I believe is bad(shorted to ground). The kill switch goes down to this part and then to the coil. The saw will run fine with the wire unhooked from the coil, but then you can't shut it off with the kill switch. What is this ignitor for, and will it hurt the saw to run without it?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
I am approaching reassembly on the 10-10 Auto. On all four IPLs I have there is a seal shown between the two teflon washers that are between the flywheel and points cover. I doubt the saw I have has ever been taken apart and that seal is gone, can't find it on internet search? Does anyone know if they ever built 10-10's without that seal? Is it felt?

:poke:
 
Nothing wrong with a red saw.
Have you run a big Solo?
They are just like Homelites.

Nothing wrong with a red saw except it stands out in the MAC thread and RandySolo just doesn't sound right. Sorry to say that my hands on experience outside MACs has been limited to Stihls and Huskys. I grew up around Homelites but I have never run one. Ron
 
i looked at the ipl, but haven't had my 10-10 torn that far down... it looks like two thrust washers with felt... i can't tell ya for sure.

They probably are the seals. Simple felt works well as long as there is a little bit of oil keeping it from tearing up or leaking dust through it.

Hell... way back when, the Flathead V8 crank seals simply were a rope that the ends were held together with tar, and the whole seal was held in by tar.

Obviously, they now offer a one piece rubber seal... which obviously wouldn't leak at all, where them hokey ropes (as they called and still call it) leaked oil all the time...
 
They probably are the seals. Simple felt works well as long as there is a little bit of oil keeping it from tearing up or leaking dust through it.

Hell... way back when, the Flathead V8 crank seals simply were a rope that the ends were held together with tar, and the whole seal was held in by tar.

Obviously, they now offer a one piece rubber seal... which obviously wouldn't leak at all, where them hokey ropes (as they called and still call it) leaked oil all the time...

You can still get rope-type seals for some V8's and other engines. Y-Block Fords (272/292/312 found in '50s Fords like pickups and T-Birds), Flathead Fords, and 'stovebolt' Chevy/GMC sixes come to mind. There are others. The original seals used in SB Fords and Chevies were rope seals. They can actually work pretty well for a LONG time. The trick is getting them installed correctly. I haven't had an X-10 McCulloch that far apart in 20 years, so I'm no help with the on-topic discussion this time...:msp_unsure:
 

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