McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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:msp_thumbup: Ron
The trial run with the PM 700 lasted a whole of 2 cuts yesterday. The POS safty chain went dull and a quickie touch-up with a file did nothing. But then I remembered I had a good 20" 3/8 70 driver chain on the homie 360 so I swaped that on for today. Cut up the remainder of a cull log pile today.
A little work with the fiskars made for a reasonable load.
Almost all red oak with a little white oak and maple in there. Took it to my friends neighbor to go with the other partal load I hauled over a few days ago. I use his field road to get into my friend's woods.
A little work with the fiskars made for a reasonable load.
Almost all red oak with a little white oak and maple in there. Took it to my friends neighbor to go with the other partal load I hauled over a few days ago. I use his field road to get into my friend's woods.
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dieselsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
brian, I remember its just a felt washer between the two teflon ones.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I've seen two Teflon washers on alot of ten series saws, sometimes I've forgotten to put them back on and the saw run fine. It looks like to me that they are there incase the points cover comes loose and makes contact with the flywheel
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
To me, they didn't look like they would seal the box very good.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
==Hell... way back when, the Flathead V8 crank seals simply were a rope that the ends were held together with tar, and the whole seal was held in by tar. ===QUOTE]
is it kind of like the packing material used in industrial pumps and such?
I added a few items to the collection over the weekend (Barbaoo. WI).
In front of the bench is a Mc 35 with the ice auger attachment, on the bench the closest saw is a Pioneer RA, needs work but I really like the look of these saws.
The one with the 7-10 top cover is actually a gear drive 10 Series, my first! I have the correct handle for it, now to determine what saw it really is and try to find the right cover for it. The 1-41 is from Kris (Nogoingback), the PM1000 runs but needs a little attention, and the SP-70 needs carburetor work.
I need another project like I need more holes in my head, but they were there...
Mark
In front of the bench is a Mc 35 with the ice auger attachment, on the bench the closest saw is a Pioneer RA, needs work but I really like the look of these saws.
The one with the 7-10 top cover is actually a gear drive 10 Series, my first! I have the correct handle for it, now to determine what saw it really is and try to find the right cover for it. The 1-41 is from Kris (Nogoingback), the PM1000 runs but needs a little attention, and the SP-70 needs carburetor work.
I need another project like I need more holes in my head, but they were there...
Mark
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I found the original McCulloch bar for the 3420 over at my dad's last night. It's in decent shape actually, and I'm wondering if there's any reason to run that vs. the Oregon 200PXDD176 bar that's on it.
promac850
formerly promac610
==Hell... way back when, the Flathead V8 crank seals simply were a rope that the ends were held together with tar, and the whole seal was held in by tar. ===QUOTE]
is it kind of like the packing material used in industrial pumps and such?
Yep, I reckon that's what those seals would look like. Or close to it anyways.
Funny, I figured they all used the rubber lip seals nowadays. Apparently the old tar and rope design/technique/style is still used every day.
As Eccentric said, it is critical to install them right... if you don't, leaks galore...
promac850
formerly promac610
I guess if you want to be original, then running the original bar is a good reason. (or vice versa, keep the original in safe and in good shape and wear out/bend/break the Oregon instead of the Mac bar) Otherwise, both bars are good, and the saw ain't gonna care which one you put on it... it just wants to cut some wood.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I had an aircraft mechanic cure some of the oil leaks in an old Harley using silk thread. By the time he got all the cases done, there was half a mile of thread used.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
==Hell... way back when, the Flathead V8 crank seals simply were a rope that the ends were held together with tar, and the whole seal was held in by tar. ===QUOTE]
is it kind of like the packing material used in industrial pumps and such?
That looks close. It's impregnated with a heavy wax/grease. I've seen both round and square section seals.
Yep, Chevy small block V8's had a rope seal on the rear main as well back in the 50's.
I lifted my PM610 off the bench today to find it is leaking oil, quite a bit I might add.
What might the solution be for this that will fix the leak that is.
I have the starter side cover off and have yet to mess with the drive side, clutch still on. I am cleaning what parts I have off now.
What am I looking for as the cause to this problem?
What might the solution be for this that will fix the leak that is.
I have the starter side cover off and have yet to mess with the drive side, clutch still on. I am cleaning what parts I have off now.
What am I looking for as the cause to this problem?
Warped5
WingNut
These saws are notorious for oiler problems. :msp_scared: I would start out by removing the oiler before disassembling it. Soak it in SeaFoam to remove all the crud and free the valving. Now check your diaphragm and gasket to see that they are still lively and pliable. Lastly, make sure the venting is clear of any obstructions. Good luck!
The last time out with it was oiling fine. It seems to be leaking as it is sitting on the bench. With the oiler on the top of the tank how would it leak from there?
GOing back out to clean parts now. Will be back later:biggrin:
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Seal on the oil tank. I believe they used permatex at the factory, and the bolts loosen/stretch over time.
Another one of my favorite tasks. The oil tank bolts on the front of the cylinder. IIRC, you basically need to strip the saw, bottom plate, just about the works, to get to the four bolts from the cylinder into the tank. Only other thing I can think of is the oiler took a crap, look for oil in front of the carb box in copious amounts. Should be able to see whats going on there with the manual oiler, pump that a couple times to see whats going on. Obviously check the normal deals, right bar, is the oil hole unplugged, these things can "store" a lot of oil in places normally only filled with sawdust then drain while warm and sitting still. Shouldn't have to loosen the clutch, but if its coming apart, that two minutes is no big deal.
I basically have the saw stripped down to the engine. I am cleaning it and will refill the tank and let it set over night and see where the oil is coming from before I remove the tank. It has the correct bar and such as I have used the saw and it worked great.
In the end it really needed to be degunked so this is not such a bad thing to do so far. THanks for the input so far. I did not see any oil in the carb area at all. Will double check it though.
dieselsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
No 1 fix is to always leave the saw with the tank dry...
No 2 fix is to carefully wrap the saw in a black plastic garbage bag and leave it on the curb for the recycler.
Or you can keep it around for the Brother in Law ( one that you really dislike).
No 2 fix is to carefully wrap the saw in a black plastic garbage bag and leave it on the curb for the recycler.
Or you can keep it around for the Brother in Law ( one that you really dislike).
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