McCulloch Chain Saws

[Warped5]

The latest Mac acquisition: 660 w/ 3:1 reduction. Really nice shape, other than paint loss on the black covers. Had trouble making the Tilly HL on the saw run right, so I stole the 650 carby to get it going. I added the General bar and new 1/2" full chisel to finish it off.

Chris B.

Nice find, Chris!

(How the heck do you come up with these?)

I'll bet it looks great next to your Super 550! I sent the bar off mine to Portland today to be repaired; can't find one to save my life.

 

[cbfarmall]

Nice find, Chris!

(How the heck do you come up with these?)

I'll bet it looks great next to your Super 550! I sent the bar off mine to Portland today to be repaired; can't find one to save my life.

It does look great next to my Super 550 as well as two Super 250s, 550, 650, and many others.

Chris B.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Yea. I even made a vid.

Double eagle 80 - YouTube

Its an awesome saw, just not my cup of tea.

Nice saw.:msp_smile:

What are you wanting for that cup of tea?:msp_biggrin:

 

[Urbicide]

Hey guys, a chain question here .... I've got a Mac chain with the number '30' stamped on the rakers. What can you tell me? Thanks!

That # is what the rakers/depth gauges should be set at. The numbers that always seem to have the most ID significance are stamped on the sides of the drive links.

 

[Warped5]

That # is what the rakers/depth gauges should be set at. The numbers that always seem to have the most ID significance are stamped on the sides of the drive links.

Thanks! The drive links have no markings, I suspect because the chain is so worn out.

 

[newlogger]

re

looks like it is a LG-6 , someone might changed the air cleaner cover. I have LG-6 and looks exactly the same. I'm wondering how the LG-6 end up in Japan.

 

[newlogger]

I finally found my first 10 Series gear drive saw, not sure of the model but the stamp on the bottom says 2-3009 (I think). I will guess it is a 2-10G but I'm all ears (or eyes) if someone has a better idea.

This one came to me with the wrong front handle, but I had a NOS wrap handle in the attice that fits nicely. I ended up swapping out the carburetor, not sure what was up with the carburetor in the saw but it was all out of whack, not the original carburetor for this saw anyway. Last weekend at Baraboo (where I got this saw) someone stopped by looking for advice on getting a carburetor kit for a Target cut off saw - based on the 795 power head; I told him about customchainsawparts on e-Bay selling the Sugar Creek kits, he stopped by later to give me a box of 10 Series parts including a clutch that I passed on to Marty (Kingsley) for his PM700, and a carburetor that I put on this saw after adding the spring to the metering lever (maybe that was why the other guy's saw did not run?).

Finally, clean the points and change the spark plug and it now starts and runs very nicely. Oiler does not work at all, neither automatic or manual so that will require some attention another day.

The bar was originally for a 10 Series but the seller I got it from had modified one of the "Yooper" bars to fiit (I just had a flash, that may be what's wrong with the oiler as the holes are in different spots). I have not seen a 3/8 sprocket on a gear drive before but it seems reasonable on this one.

Mark

looks like it is a LG-6 , someone might changed the air cleaner cover. I have LG-6 and looks exactly the same. I'm wondering how the LG-6 end up in Japan.

 

[newlogger]

the small 10 series gear drives only came three ways, 2-10, 5-10 or G-70 I believe. Mine has a 1/2 inch chain also and it's a G-70.

don't forget a LG-6 it looks like 10 series , too. I got one.

 

[leeha]

don't forget a LG-6 it looks like 10 series , too. I got one.

And iv'e got a Super LG-2




Lee

 

[newlogger]

'' super ''

what kind of option make a regular saw to a " super " saw ??? I was always wondering about that. what is the difference between normal one and super one ? I got 2-10 automatic and super 2-10 automatic, also have 10-10 and super 10-10 . I can't find much difference in between.

I would say it is one of the Mcculloch mystery.

 

[heimannm]

No mystery at all, a Super must be worth at least a 15% premium over a standard saw any day...

I have no idea what differentiates a 10 Series saw.

The Super 44 was 80 cc vs 72 cc for the D-44 or 87 cc for the Super 44A

The Super 250 had more aggressive porting than the standard 250, big difference in performance between those saws. I assume the Super 550 would have the same kind of edge over the standard 550.

The Super 797 had thick rings, the standard 797 had thin rings, in that case I guess Super means it will run longer before needing work.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Depends on the saw. Sometimes there were significant changes between 'super' and 'non super' models. Other times, it was just marketing. Same for all the other manufacturers.....

 

[joeymt33]

yeeha!! finally...

 

[joeymt33]

 

[joeymt33]

its came with a new air filter and a new muffler. i just checked compression at 165psi, how is that?

i need a muffler cover and a SDC 20 carb instead of the single adjustment.

looking at the pics, it seems that this saw has a .30 over piston. am i correct about the stamp on the bottom of the motor?

 

[joeymt33]

i owe you Ron, thanks

 

[leeha]

Nice 125 you got Joey.
I think everyone should own one.
One of Mccullochs greatest muscle saws.
If yours has a chrome bore like all the
125C's have then you can't have a .030
over size. If it's an early 125 then they
had the cast iron sleeve that can be bored.




Lee

 

[joeymt33]

yeah, thats right. i was trying to figure out what the 30 stamp was on the bottom of the crank case. it does look to be a crome bore.

 

[heimannm]

I was thinking there were some muffler covers on e-bay recently. If not, let me know and I may be able to help...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch SP70 woes

Getting ready for the Iowa GTG in October I pulled several saws off the shelf trying to get a complete line up of Super Pro saws. I've already documented the carburetor issues of one SP81 (all sorted out now), so I went on the SP70 with a leaky fuel tank.

I thought this one would be easy, but in the process of trying to remove the screws that hold the tank together I managed to twist the head off three of the four screws. It turns out the someone trying to seal the tank had put it together with some kind of epoxy including the screw holes very positively fixing them in place. Fortunately the screws all twisted off with some screw sticking up so the first try was thread nuts on, weld them, and try to remove the screws. All three twisted off again, weld nuts again, twist them off again...I decided at this point to drill them out since the screw were pretty soft and I thought it looked like there were steel inserts for the threads.

First two screws drilled pretty well but on the third the bit wandered off center and I learned there were no steel inserts after all, just magnesium. After a fair bit of careful drill work (funny angles to get back into the screw) I did manage to drill enough out that I could knock the remnant of the screw out. Two holes received helicoils, the third I had to drill oversize and put in an EZ tap, sort of like a set screw with internal threads to make a very solid threaded insert.

Before reassembling the tank halves I made sure to "flatten" then carefully by placing a piece of sand paper on a granite plate and making sure they were flat and smooth. Just before quitting for the evening I put the tank halves together with some black Ultra silicone that is reported to be highly fuel/oil resistant.

Hopefully I will get to spend a few evenings in the shop this week and get this one back together and going again. Not quite as exciting as Brad's 101 Kart saw, Lee's rebuild SP125, or Joey's new SP125C but fun for me in any case. I promise a few photo's as the project continues to move along.

Mark