McCulloch Chain Saws

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Mac 99- 2 man saw

Hi all,

Not meaning to barge into this thread, but wondered if anyone here had a line on some parts for a Model 99 mac saw? Was looking for the control assembly that bolts on to the handlebar. In particular, the oiler control assembly with cable, or any suggestions as to what could be substituted. The saw is sitting at my FIL, and will take a while to make it's way here.
Thanks
Drew
 
I thought this saw belonged in here as well.
A nice SP125C i picked up off ebay on a best offer.
Pretty clean saw with the muff guard thats usually
broke off. I had to replace the clutch cover, The one
that came with it had a big chunk out of it. She's
a great runner as well. And came with this nice 36 inch
roller nose bar.

Lee

RemingtonGearMacSP125C004.jpg

RemingtonGearMacSP125C005.jpg

RemingtonGearMacSP125C006.jpg

RemingtonGearMacSP125C007.jpg
 
I thought this saw belonged in here as well.
A nice SP125C i picked up off ebay on a best offer.
Pretty clean saw with the muff guard thats usually
broke off. I had to replace the clutch cover, The one
that came with it had a big chunk out of it. She's
a great runner as well. And came with this nice 36 inch
roller nose bar.

Lee

RemingtonGearMacSP125C007.jpg


Love the background scenery in that pic:msp_wink:

The big yellow monster up front is cool too................:msp_biggrin:
 
That saw looks nice Mark, I have one here that is low on compression that I hope to go through one day. and it its little brother the 700 as well.

Have not heard anything back on that other saw we talked about the other day:frown:

Mark did you run MOJim's 800 at the GTG? It was a very strong runner. I was impressed with it. Seems like he had a 36" bar on the one and it did very well with it.

Mark ran the one with the 28" roller nose. The one with the 37" pulls it just fine, if you keep it in the sweet spot it will pull with authority as you found out.
I know Mark has a 28" roller nose:msp_smile: to fit it.
 
Here is the video of the McCulloch 10-10G as I have begun to call it, this is with a older 20 inch McCulloch hard nose and a loop of 72 driver Stihl 3/8 chain. I will also include a video of my SP 81.

[video=youtube;Lk6KINZZers]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lk6KINZZers[/video]

[video=youtube;iN6YPPaQ6ck]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN6YPPaQ6ck[/video]
 
That is the biggest I can get until the snow melts a little, I have one more red fir log then I am out and will have to fetch some more, I will try to grab a bigger chunk. The SP 81 is a real runner, I would put it up against any modern 5 cube saw.
 
Mark ran the one with the 28" roller nose. The one with the 37" pulls it just fine, if you keep it in the sweet spot it will pull with authority as you found out.
I know Mark has a 28" roller nose:msp_smile: to fit it.

I was really surprised by how that saw ran with the big bar on it. It really is a sleeper for its displacement. It was after running your I knew I would not sell mine. It is a must redo saw.

I though for the last three days been trying to finish the ceiling in my garage and wish I had the sense to call a drywall finisher in to do it. But I will plod my way through it as painfull as it is to do. I see no rebuilding anytime soon until this project gets completed:msp_angry:
 
I ran an 8 pin with a 36" on the PM850 in the softer wood like true Firs and second growth Redwood, full comp too.
If you tailor the chain, you can keep that high chain speed. I get a big kick outta most AS members whinin' about bogging in the cut.
 
I ran an 8 pin with a 36" on the PM850 in the softer wood like true Firs and second growth Redwood, full comp too.
If you tailor the chain, you can keep that high chain speed. I get a big kick outta most AS members whinin' about bogging in the cut.

The saws you ran back then (PM850's and older Macs and Homelites for the guys that don't know) had more low-mid grunt (that helps them keep from "falling off the pipe" and bogging) than the modern speedsters too Randy.
 
Adapting the chain to the saw and cutting conditions still applies, regardless of age or power characteristics.
Take that 850 for example, to maintain high revs with the long bar and full comp chisel, paying attention to the racker height and profile,as well as the angles on the bits, ensure optimal efficiency. Alas, the art of sawchain filing is being lost, except for the hotsaw and milling crowd, the current lazy ass "just have it ground to spec" attitude is severely lacking in sawchain performance awareness. So when I see some wiener who added two whole inches to the bar length, whining about bogging and being advised to wimp out, go to full skip chain, just cracks me up. Step out of the ####in' box and pay attention to how your saw is cutting.

redfir.jpg
 
Raker profile is pretty easy to maintain, even -- just follow the shape on the side, usually doesn't take but a couple of swipes with the file after setting the depth. It makes a noticeable difference in cutting speed as it reduces drag. The flat spot on the raker's leading edge doesn't look like much, but it's in the same place on all the cutters, so it adds up over the length of the chain. I usually use a FOP to set the depth on the worst cutter on the grinder, then match them all, then profile with the chain still on the bench. I don't hang 'em up 'til they're DONE.
 
Adapting the chain to the saw and cutting conditions still applies, regardless of age or power characteristics.Take that 850 for example, to maintain high revs with the long bar and full comp chisel, paying attention to the racker height and profile,as well as the angles on the bits, ensure optimal efficiency. Alas, the art of sawchain filing is being lost, except for the hotsaw and milling crowd, the current lazy ass "just have it ground to spec" attitude is severely lacking in sawchain performance awareness. So when I see some wiener who added two whole inches to the bar length, whining about bogging and being advised to wimp out, go to full skip chain, just cracks me up. Step out of the ####in' box and pay attention to how your saw is cutting.

I agree completely. It's even more important now, with the power charactaristics of modern saws. The chain condition and tuning makes or breaks the saw.
 
Adapting the chain to the saw and cutting conditions still applies, regardless of age or power characteristics.===

'nother bad-ass pic.

I'm afraid I would only cause more harm than good trying to tweak the bits & rakers. Unless I run into someone that knows AND who has the patience to teach, grinding to spec is gonna be my default - not due to laziness, but ignorance.
 
'nother bad-ass pic.

I'm afraid I would only cause more harm than good trying to tweak the bits & rakers. Unless I run into someone that knows AND who has the patience to teach, grinding to spec is gonna be my default - not due to laziness, but ignorance.


I wouldn't call it laziness or ignorance. I takes alot of time,
Patience, trial and error and being around people in the know
that can show you there experiences with sharpening chains.



Lee
 
The chains can be made grabby with too much hook on the tooth or lowering the rakers too far. Either will accomplish the same thing. You can bog a 90 cc saw with a grabby chain and a little pressure.
 
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