McCulloch Chain Saws

[promac850]

I got a 790 thread going again...

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190330.htm

Hope the thread will be of help to those that are/may be working on one of these six cube beasts.

 

[wyk]

Hey, guys. Just got me a Pro Mac 800. I'll be picking it up next week.

I don't need this 7-10, now. I'm more a mac user than collector. It's the one in my pics and the vid I posted.
If anyone is looking for a 7-10, feel free to PM me an offer.

Almost forgot to add. Is the 800 digital ignition? If so, does anyone need this lil sten digital ignition I got for my 7-10?

 

[OldDeadWood]

Thanks to Mark Heimannm

Mark

Thanks again. For the second round if manuals you sent me and also for the great information
you are posting on AS. The oiler thread was great.

ODW

 

[sawbones]

I missed an 895 on e-bay a few weeks ago, but had been in contact with the seller before the auction closed so he knew I was looking. He passed along a message that indicated member Sawbones had one available so I made contact and we agreed on the deal.

Saw arrived last night and I found a few simple things that I could attend to, replaced one missing screw in the flywheel cover, replace the muffler as the old one was really shot - to the point the baffles were rattling about - added the duck bill valve and vent on the gas cap.

First off I removed the spark plug and checked for spark and compression, good fat blue spark and around 130 PSI on the compression. Next I checked the manual oil pump and it seemed to work so add some oil and we have a pumper. Fuel tank was clean so I added fuel and decided to give it a try. This one is equipped with the McCulloch "flat back" carburetor but the one with a choke, not the primer. Within 10 pulls it popped and was off and running, automatic oiler also checks out. For those that are not so familliar with the big gear drive McCulloch saws, the automatic oil pump is driven off the sprocket shaft so it only pumps oil when the chain is moving.

Lastly I added the bar and chain, NOS 36" McCulloch bar with the black MAC swoosh logo. Chain is 1/2" pitch chipper, very little use and of extremely high quality construction. Look at the last photo and see how the rivets are actually set in counterbores in the tie straps...that is one really rugged chain. Winter finally arrived in Iowa last night so we will just have to see how much cold & snow & blow we get, if it's not too bad I will have to take this one out on Saturday and put it in some wood.

Mark

Looks like it made it safe

That chain only had a quick test cut on it. It is Blue Jet 1/2 .063. I used Oregon #10 preset and strap to link it up.
The Bluejet kits are the the rivets that need peened from both sides with a center punch and are a bugger for blind guy's like me.

Do those chokes have a detent on them or do you need to hold your finger down to close it?

hope to see a vid soon too..


ric

 

[Jordan3605]

Looking for an offer on my PM55 im letting go.
PM with any interest
(Good Condition/Nothing Broken)
needs bar/chain attention

 

[heimannm]

No detent on the choke so it's hold the throttle and choke with the left hand, pull with the right.

Remember to use the compression release or be prepared to get bit...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Hey, guys. Just got me a Pro Mac 800. I'll be picking it up next week.

I don't need this 7-10, now. I'm more a mac user than collector. It's the one in my pics and the vid I posted.
If anyone is looking for a 7-10, feel free to PM me an offer.

Almost forgot to add. Is the 800 digital ignition? If so, does anyone need this lil sten digital ignition I got for my 7-10?

The PM800 were all electronic ignition but it is possible that someone could have changed it, early PM700 saws were points/condenser ignition but later models were electronic. My IPL's only list one flywheel for both ignition types on the PM700, but at least three different flywheel part numbers for the 805/850/800 models; I think the only real difference were some had more fins for better cooling.

Hang on to the 7-10 until you get you PM800, you may discover you prefer the nimble little saw over the bigger displacement version.

Mark

 

[Sawchips]

Use Bob's number, but fax it in .... it's trapping season now and that's the only way he can receive orders.

Bob Johnson sends best wish's to all in the New Year.

Thanks again Warped 5. Sent the fax today. Bob had everything I needed.


Bob's been Trapping, but says not much luck lately.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Can anyone tell me the wording on the 3-25 gearbox cover decal? Just a few words I can't make out.
Thanks in advance.

Just bumping this up in case someone missed it.

 

[promac850]

Just bumping this up in case someone missed it.

Looks like that is a important sticker... I think it may tell you how to fill/check the oil level in the gearbox.

For example, i can pick out the last two words, they surely are LOWER and PLUG...

Maybe pointing to how to fill the gearbox up? Below there is the bar/chain oil tank fill plug, on the right...

First line is something like this USE (FILL?) AUTO-
second..... MOTIVE GEAR
third...... LUBE (GREASE?) TO THIS
fourth.... LEVEL AT LOWER
fifth..... PLUG

That must be it.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looks like that is a important sticker... I think it may tell you how to fill/check the oil level in the gearbox.

For example, i can pick out the last two words, they surely are LOWER and PLUG...

Maybe pointing to how to fill the gearbox up? Below there is the bar/chain oil tank fill plug, on the right...

First line is something like this USE (FILL?) AUTO-
second..... MOTIVE GEAR
third...... LUBE (GREASE?) TO THIS
fourth.... LEVEL AT LOWER
fifth..... PLUG

That must be it.

Thanks, that may be it and it makes sense. I knew it referred to filling the gear box but wanted to get the wording exact. I hadn't thought about them hyphenating "automotive".

 

[buzz sawyer]

Found a better photo on-line. I'm missing the second word in the top line.

Fill (case?) with automotive gear grease to this level at lower plug.

 

[cpr]

Hard to believe I didn't have one of these already, but I got a 250 off CL last night. Hard to have a collection without one of these, they're everywhere.
The kill switch doesn't work and it needs boots for the plug and the carb adjustment hole, but with some fresh mix in, it fired on the fifth pull. Runs nice! It has that funky rim-style driver fixed to the drum on it, too.

Haven't run my Mac 15 in over a year. I forgot how LOUD stacks are.

 

[K.C.]

Fuel Mix Ratio for Older Mac's

While I'm sure this has been discussed before, I was unable to find anything specific to the older Mac's using the alleged search feature here. Being new to the older Mac saws (but have past Karting experience with them) I need to know is it really necessary to run these at 20:1 when using a premium oil? Also the manual I am browsing through (Thanks Aaron!) says to use a low octane fuel where I'm used to running mid-grade fuel in my newer saws. Do I need to run 87 rather than 89?

One more question: what is the best way to clean up these beasts? Is something like Simple Green and water ok to use or would I be better off with something else, and more importantly what should I stay away from?

CPR - thats a nice looking 250!

 

[cpr]

With modern oils 40:1 is fine. I use 100LL at 32:1 with Klotz R50.

 

[Eccentric]

Hard to believe I didn't have one of these already, but I got a 250 off CL last night. Hard to have a collection without one of these, they're everywhere.
The kill switch doesn't work and it needs boots for the plug and the carb adjustment hole, but with some fresh mix in, it fired on the fifth pull. Runs nice! It has that funky rim-style driver fixed to the drum on it, too.


Haven't run my Mac 15 in over a year. I forgot how LOUD stacks are.

Nice 250 Charles. That kill switch is the simplest, most robust design ever put on a saw IMHO. Two moving parts. The sliding switch forces one end of a piece of spring steel (riveted to the flywheel cover) to bend and ground against the points terminal on the coil. My guess is that there's probably just some gunk keeping it from making contact. The terminal on the coil may also be bent out of allignment (probably because gunk has gotten between the terminal and the spring steel). Pull the flywheel cover, clean things up, and check for allignment. I swapped one of these flywheel covers (from a 250 I parted out) onto my 650 gear drive because that saw's top-type kill switch button and wire were both broken. Simpler is better. You also don't have fragile wire to tug on and disconnect/reconnect every time you pull the flywheel cover...

 

[homelitejim]

We are having a really nice mild winter so far, but storms are coming in this next week and they are predicting over a foot of snow. I decided instead of working on saws I would take a few classics out and cut wood one last time this winter. The saw is a SP81 and here is the video.


[video=youtube;5bfOeM3EuCI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bfOeM3EuCI[/video]

 

[Modifiedmark]

Worked on the 7-10 today. Didnt turn out well. It runs but I think its got a bad crank seal, I'll pressure/vac test it tomorrow. It wont idle down and dies when turned on its side. On the bright side its a 2" bore and the piston is thin ringed and perfect. 160lbs comp.

I also found out why its so loud, its missing both bolts from the muffler to cyl. Now to find or make that special studded bolt that goes through the muffler.:bang:

 

[Eccentric]

Keep at it Mark. Sounds like a crank seal to me too. That NOS Windsor bar I put on my PM700 turned out to be a TMX (same as D276) afterall. No Echo/Poulan oiler holes. My feeble brain confused it with the used Oregon D176 bar I have put aside for my 7-10A. That Windsor bar reads 24TMX50SN for 24"/ TMX/.050G/Sprocket-Nose.

 

[mactodd]

Worked on the 7-10 today. Didnt turn out well. It runs but I think its got a bad crank seal, I'll pressure/vac test it tomorrow. It wont idle down and dies when turned on its side. On the bright side its a 2" bore and the piston is thin ringed and perfect. 160lbs comp.

I also found out why its so loud, its missing both bolts from the muffler to cyl. Now to find or make that special studded bolt that goes through the muffler.:bang:

I'll look tomorrow, but I may have an extra muffler bolt. IF it is a seal, it's a PTO side where somebody got twigs or brush between the case and clutch. I may have an extra one of those as well. The flywheel side is well protected, and the monster ball bearing on that side keeps the crank in position.

Muffler bolts or no, they are still loud!
Hot tip, make sure the two bolts that hold the tank assy to the block are tight. I had a great 10-10 that ended up breaking those bolts, and rendered the cylinder useless. Was still running strong until both broke, and would not run at all.