McCulloch Chain Saws

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I hope I'm not part of that stupid, arrogant kids classification. I was just wanting a 24" SN bar for my 7-10 that don't need adaptors. Baileys sounds like the best option if I can't find one on eBay or elsewhere.

Who would have guessed mentioning it would cause such a ruckus. We are a passionate group no question.
 
I hope I'm not part of that stupid, arrogant kids classification. I was just wanting a 24" SN bar for my 7-10 that don't need adaptors. Baileys sounds like the best option if I can't find one on eBay or elsewhere.

Who would have guessed mentioning it would cause such a ruckus. We are a passionate group no question.

You aren't.

They're talking about me.
 
You aren't.

They're talking about me.

You are sometimes too confident in your facts, and we can be at times also, we just have had the rug pulled out from under us often enough to either recheck or not chance it. Hows the project saw coming?

Got an empty one here, it ain't gonna fill itself.
 
You are sometimes too confident in your facts, and we can be at times also, we just have had the rug pulled out from under us often enough to either recheck or not chance it. Hows the project saw coming?

Got an empty one here, it ain't gonna fill itself.

I got the ports done... I'm calling them good.

Teardropped them to resemble the pic in the early pages of the build thread. Mine aren't quite as cosmetically perfect as those ones in the pic are, but they will do what they are supposed to do. Make more power...

Tomorrow, I'm looking at ordering a flatback carb kit and finishing blasting the rest of the parts like the fuel tank.

As for painting, I think I'm just gonna borrow a spray gun that actually works from someone, and then paint with it. Both my airbrush and spray gun aren't working properly. :bang:



The 850 has something really plugging up the passage from the oiler to the hole that feeds the bar oiling slot... so far, nothing has budged whatever is in there, air, carb clean, small piece of wire. Either I am not doing something right or it's got something really jammed in there.



Still tripping over all kinds of crap in the barn even though I moved some of it to my little storage shed. Doesn't help that I tend to find something else to tear into for parts or whatever. Wonder if I'll ever get to that "#### it, I'm gonna scrap half of this useful crap." mindset.
 
Bryce currently has 24" sprocket nose bars for the large frame saws listed for $30 (as I pointed out yesterday); looking at mine last night I found mine were actually 3/8 / .058 rather than .063, better for me as I have 3/8 / .058 chain on hand and don't have any 3/8 / .063.

24" bars for the 10 Series saws do seem to come up less often on e-bay but there are plenty of other options out there as Eccentric has correctly pointed out.

Warped, look for an e-mail later on with some additional information on bars...

Mark
 
hi guys,i just bought another truck load of saws and there was mini mac's of course..but i got two that have a auto sharp built into them are these common or something worth saving one mini mac is almost new in the case with this setup...thanks guys and let me tell you>>YOU GUYS HAVE SOME AMAZING SAWS..true preservation of chainsaw history
 
The chains and stones for those systems are still pretty common out there, but you don't find many saws that still use them.

I hear that the current Oregon system (Power Sharp) is better than the older iterations of the same concept.

Set one of those Mini Macs with the Auto-Sharp aside if you think of it, sooner or later I will need to put one in the collection.

Mark
 
I think you will find there were about equal numbers of "standard" 3-10's, 3-10E's, and 3-10 DSP's out there. I have a 3-10E and a 3-10 DSP, but no plain old 3-10...

For the 10 Series saws, I only use the compression release on the SP81's, other seem to be easier to start (hear the pop) with full compression. The electric start saws definitely needed the compression release, and the 82 cc saws really benefit from it when starting to save on the starter clutch and rope.

Mark

P.S. I am still looking for my first 4-10 of any kind if someone has one setting around. I sent a guy (member at the time in fact) $100 once for a 4-10 and never received the saw...
 
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I think you will find there were about equal numbers of "standard" 3-10's, 3-10E's, and 3-10 DSP's out there. I have a 3-10E and a 3-10 DSP, but no plain old 3-10...

For the 10 Series saws, I only use the compression release on the SP81's, other seem to be easier to start (hear the pop) with full compression. The electric start saws definitely needed the compression release, and the 82 cc saws really benefit from it when starting to save on the starter clutch and rope.

Mark

P.S. I am still looking for my first 4-10 of any kind if someone has one setting around. I sent a guy (member at the time in fact) $100 once for a 4-10 and never received the saw...

Sorry to hear about the P.S. part. I can't imagine someone being that low, especially to a fellow AS member. I've always trusted the members, especially the frequent posters.

I've never tried using the comp release on mine because it's not that bad to start. I have an 044 Stihl that I wish had a comp. release but it doesn't. I have to drop start it to keep it from kicking back. The 3-10 has a 16" bar on it and is perfect for limbing.

I get around quite a bit when the weather's warm and they have the yard sales and flea markets, I'll keep my eyes open for a 4-10. I've never seen one at the markets so I'm probably due to see one this year.
 
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Gentlemen,

It has been almost 23 hours without a single post in this thread. let's at least try to stay nearly as active as the Poulan boys...

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Mark
 
De 80

I couldn't help myself and I bought a DE80 from an AS member who got it from a dealer's scrap pile. Is it any wonder that a previous owner had jerked the starter cord out trying to start it.

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One wrist pin bearing squished like a banana. Believe it or not, but I think the cylinder is usable. Ron
 

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