McCulloch Chain Saws

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Yeah well, I have three (3) three shoe 10 series clutches, the PM80 had them, but I don't think the later 82cc models did. The IPL I have for the PM80 shows the triple shoe clutch, the rest of the IPLs show two shoes.
 
all show and no go

So I was finally able to get my 7-10 fired up and running this evening. I had to replace the fuel line and I also went ahead and replaced the carb to a fully adjustable SDC (thanks Joey). It took a little while to start but seems to be fine now. This saw has more compression than any other saw I own and everything appears to be in great condition. I tuned by ear and man does this thing sound fierce.

Until I put it in wood. For some reason its wanting to die when I start cutting. Out of the wood it sounds great and feels great. Like I said its got great compression, the fuel systems are all new...whats the deal? I was also doing this at night and I noticed that when its under load (and right after I pull it out) you could see flames (maybe 1/2" long) blowing out the muffler -- kinda like a top fuel dragster at night going down the track. I don't know if thats normal since I usually cut in daylight.
 
Yeah well, I have three (3) three shoe 10 series clutches, the PM80 had them, but I don't think the later 82cc models did. The IPL I have for the PM80 shows the triple shoe clutch, the rest of the IPLs show two shoes.

My SP80 has the 3 shoe, my SP81 has 2.

The SP-80 had a clutch that was unique to that model (and possibly one of the 70cc saws IIRC). All the later 82cc McCullochs used the common 10-series clutch.

So I was finally able to get my 7-10 fired up and running this evening. I had to replace the fuel line and I also went ahead and replaced the carb to a fully adjustable SDC (thanks Joey). It took a little while to start but seems to be fine now. This saw has more compression than any other saw I own and everything appears to be in great condition. I tuned by ear and man does this thing sound fierce.

Until I put it in wood. For some reason its wanting to die when I start cutting. Out of the wood it sounds great and feels great. Like I said its got great compression, the fuel systems are all new...whats the deal? I was also doing this at night and I noticed that when its under load (and right after I pull it out) you could see flames (maybe 1/2" long) blowing out the muffler -- kinda like a top fuel dragster at night going down the track. I don't know if thats normal since I usually cut in daylight.

tune it in the cut, ya got it too lean.

Randy's right. You've got it too lean, and you're gonna smoke it if you run it like that. Tune the high side so that it 'four strokes' at WOT with no load (don't even think of going near the saw with a tach), and just 'cleans up' when under load in the cut. Soon as you lift pressure in the cut, the saw should drop back to 'four stroking'.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I will re-adjust tomorrow after work. When I put the new carb on I just went with what the manual stated with 1 turn out on the H and L. The L side ended up at about 1.5 turns out but the H side sounded alright with the 1 turn. I'll report back if I can get it right tomorrow!
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I will re-adjust tomorrow after work. When I put the new carb on I just went with what the manual stated with 1 turn out on the H and L. The L side ended up at about 1.5 turns out but the H side sounded alright with the 1 turn. I'll report back if I can get it right tomorrow!

If it takes more than 1.5 turns out on the H side to get it 'four stroking', then you may have an air leak somewhere. PTO side crank seal, or one of the gaskets between the carb adaptor, carb box, insulator, and cylinder could be the issue.
 
I know this is off the current subject but if you look at Mark's photos of mufflers, about in the middle, you will see a 200, a 1-40 and a Mc15. Mark mentions and it's easy to see that the center exhaust ports are closed. This goes back to a post by madhatte on page 804 about the 1-40 being detuned. The 1-40, Mc15 and 200 (that I know of) don't have all their exhaust, transfer, or induction ports. There may be other Macs that are detuned in this maner.

I'd really like to know what McCulloch was trying to accomplish with this and what other Macs might be detuned in this maner.

ODW

I didn't know the 1-40 was that way. The 15 & 200 were marketed as consumer saws and I think they detuned them so John Q. Public would get into less trouble. They're fun to run, but not as powerful and won't rev as high.
 
My SP80 has the 3 shoe, my SP81 has 2.

Randy & madrone, I learn something new every day. I already knew the SP80 had a unique clutch but I didn't know what was unique about it. I assume MAC decided that the two shoe was enough because all of my IPLs (SP81E, PM850, PM800, PM8200 and DE80) show only the two shoe. Ron
 
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I didn't know the 1-40 was that way. The 15 & 200 were marketed as consumer saws and I think they detuned them so John Q. Public would get into less trouble. They're fun to run, but not as powerful and won't rev as high.

My 1-40 seems to run ok, but of course I don't cut much wood with it, if any. That seems to be a saw that was put out as an experiment, what with the oiler change, their version of an early automatic oiler which used mix oil to oil the bar. Odd. I wouldn't exactly call it a "consumer saw" but maybe back then that might be all they had.
 
Well guys I found the problem(s). The main culprit was my new fuel line was so soft it had kinked itself. This made it get enough fuel to idle just fine but starved for fuel once I gunned it. I got that resolved and then properly tuned it in some big oak chunks I have. It's rockin and rollin now! I definitely need to put on a bigger bar than this 16" -- I would love a 24 if any of y'all have one laying around...
 
Well guys I found the problem(s). The main culprit was my new fuel line was so soft it had kinked itself. This made it get enough fuel to idle just fine but starved for fuel once I gunned it. I got that resolved and then properly tuned it in some big oak chunks I have. It's rockin and rollin now! I definitely need to put on a bigger bar than this 16" -- I would love a 24 if any of y'all have one laying around...

24" sproket nose are hard to find and bring money...

Either 20" or 28" sprocket, or a 24" hardnose.

It'll do good with a 28" as long as you aren't gonna lean on it in real hard stuff with an aggressive chain.

Otherwise, throw an 8 pin rim on and keep running the 16" for a mean limbing saw.
 
24" sproket nose are hard to find and bring money...

Either 20" or 28" sprocket, or a 24" hardnose.

It'll do good with a 28" as long as you aren't gonna lean on it in real hard stuff with an aggressive chain.

Otherwise, throw an 8 pin rim on and keep running the 16" for a mean limbing saw.

24" sprocket nose D276/TMX 10-series bars aren't any more scarce or expensive than the 28" SN's. Lots on feebay. Newly made 24" Oregon D176 bars are available from Baileys and others too.
 
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