McCulloch Chain Saws

[8433jeff]

It was a nice day to be out doing firewood and I also needed to do a test run on the latest project saw. It surely ran good after some fine tuning to the carburator.

View attachment 223715View attachment 223716

Nice fire wood, red elm, I believe?

 

[heimannm]

Gentlemen, gentlemen, it is page 890, let's get with it.

Here is my best effort so far, but it is still in a box just waiting for some time...

Mark

 

[promac850]

Gentlemen, gentlemen, it is page 890, let's get with it.

Here is my best effort so far, but it is still in a box just waiting for some time...
[snip]

[snip]
Mark

That looks familiar...

 

[paccity]

page 890 it is.

 

[joeymt33]

maybe we should start doing videos instead of pics for these times.....

 

[joeymt33]

maybe we should start doing videos instead of pics for these times.....

yeah i know, its a short bar. but just try and stop it!

 

[Eccentric]

Eccentric, That #46 stud bracket thing was the whole problem to my screw down in carb issue, someone spot welded the screw and obviously not good enough. I got another screw for it and welded it on there as to NEVER come off.

Now me being new to this and stupid questions are always asked, what chain on these (the Pro 10-10 need a chain)?

I have read .354 pitch but have not had luck on the internet finding one.

Don't bother with. 354. Run 3/8 pitch. What bar type (sprocket tip, hardnose, or roller nose) and gauge do you have now? Check to see what drive sprocket you have now. We can easily set you up for 3/8 pitch chain. Most of these saws came with 3/8. .354 was an oddball that was only used on a small percentage of these saws. Most likely your saw is set up for 3/8-.050G or 3/8-.058G chain.

 

[tbow388]

Don't bother with. 354. Run 3/8 pitch. What bar type (sprocket tip, hardnose, or roller nose) and gauge do you have now? Check to see what drive sprocket you have now. We can easily set you up for 3/8 pitch chain. Most of these saws came with 3/8. .354 was an oddball that was only used on a small percentage of these saws. Most likely your saw is set up for 3/8-.050G or 3/8-.058G chain.

Both of my 10-10's have 16" hard nose bars. Both have rim sprockets. Both original bars say .050. One saw has a great chain on it. Doesnt look like it has much use. The new Pro10-10 barely has any chain left.

I want to get a 20" bar for one of them.

 

[Warped5]

Both of my 10-10's have 16" hard nose bars. Both have rim sprockets. Both original bars say .050. One saw has a great chain on it. Doesnt look like it has much use. The new Pro10-10 barely has any chain left.

I want to get a 20" bar for one of them.

Bryce has a nice lightly used one with a chain on feeBay now. You could escape for about 40 bucks ...

 

[Eccentric]

Both of my 10-10's have 16" hard nose bars. Both have rim sprockets. Both original bars say .050. One saw has a great chain on it. Doesnt look like it has much use. The new Pro10-10 barely has any chain left.

I want to get a 20" bar for one of them.

3/8-.050G is the way to go for you then. 60DL on the 16" bars, and 70DL for a 20".

 

[promac850]

I don't remember if I updated the results of cleaning and assembling the oiler over and over again on the 850...

Still won't work right. Manual oiler gets real hard to push.

I'm thinking what I am going to try next is bypassing the auto oiler altogether... and see if it will work then. If I have to limp for a while with a manual only oiler, I will do so. It'd only make even better practice for the 790. Or does it not work that way?


I doubt it's the weight of the oil, since for the tests, I've been using synthetic 0-40 oil. Tried carb cleaner through the passages, and blowing air through them as well. All of the easier to access (bar oiler groove to auto oiler, manual oiler to auto oiler, and pick up line to manual oiler) are free and clear.

 

[Dennis Gauge]

Gentlemen, gentlemen, it is page 890, let's get with it.

Here is my best effort so far, but it is still in a box just waiting for some time...

Wow, crunchy.

 

[rwoods]

I don't remember if I updated the results of cleaning and assembling the oiler over and over again on the 850...

Still won't work right. Manual oiler gets real hard to push.

I'm thinking what I am going to try next is bypassing the auto oiler altogether... and see if it will work then. If I have to limp for a while with a manual only oiler, I will do so. It'd only make even better practice for the 790. Or does it not work that way?


I doubt it's the weight of the oil, since for the tests, I've been using synthetic 0-40 oil. Tried carb cleaner through the passages, and blowing air through them as well. All of the easier to access (bar oiler groove to auto oiler, manual oiler to auto oiler, and pick up line to manual oiler) are free and clear.

Kyle, are you sure you haven't restricted the piston travel too much with the adjustment screw? Several of the saws I have bought had nonfunctioning oilers and with a little fiddling they begin to work again. I have no real explanation for that. Out of all my saws, I have replaced only one gasket and I have replaced one fiber piston that was broken.

Ron

 

[Sagetown]

I've been known to be hard headed. Thanks for the input.

Rep'd neighbor.

 

[heimannm]

Kyle, sound like either the discharge or the automatic itself is blocked. Take the automatic oiler off and make sure the oil can flow from the outlet of the automatic pump to the bar, then try working the automatic piston; you should be able to see oil pumping through the automatic part. I think you will have a hard time bypassing the automatic oiler unless you make some kind of plate to pass the oil from the pick up, through the manual pump, and then to the discharge passage under automatic pump.

Mark

 

[apse]

page 890 it is.

I have not noticed that post before, that is quite the tree! What was the diameter at the base? An absolutely beautiful piece of wood!

Thanks for posting that great pic!
Brian and Tina

 

[rheima]

Post number 13364

I too have seeen the picture before in post 13364 and was curious why it was cut that way. Was the heart shaped top part to fit in the notched part when the back cut was made?

Ray

 

[promac850]

Kyle, are you sure you haven't restricted the piston travel too much with the adjustment screw? Several of the saws I have bought had nonfunctioning oilers and with a little fiddling they begin to work again. I have no real explanation for that. Out of all my saws, I have replaced only one gasket and I have replaced one fiber piston that was broken.

Ron

Yeah, it isn't the adjustment screw... that's backed out to where it doesn't even push on that little plastic tri-lobed spacer.

Kyle, sound like either the discharge or the automatic itself is blocked. Take the automatic oiler off and make sure the oil can flow from the outlet of the automatic pump to the bar, then try working the automatic piston; you should be able to see oil pumping through the automatic part. I think you will have a hard time bypassing the automatic oiler unless you make some kind of plate to pass the oil from the pick up, through the manual pump, and then to the discharge passage under automatic pump.

Mark

When I worked the automatic oiler's piston, oil did not seem to be flowing out of the discharge port...

The passage from the discharge port to the bar oiling slot is clear. Air blows right through it. I even took my little high pressure oil can with the 0-40 oil and squirted oil into the discharge port hole, it shot a stream of oil out where the bar mounts up to.

As for bypassing the auto oiler, it would require a block off plate with a passage drilled through it. I've got plenty of 6061 scrap aluminum laying around to make such a thing...

But first, I'll try cleaning out the auto oiler again, and hopefully this cleaning will be the straw that broke the camel's back regarding the blockage.

If I do end up making a block off plate, I'll make a short thread on how I made it. I've already got the CAD drawing for it rolling around in my brain.

 

[HeRoze]

====If I do end up making a block off plate, I'll make a short thread on how I made it. I've already got the CAD drawing for it rolling around in my brain.

just fix the thing.

 

[HeRoze]

Bryce has a nice lightly used one with a chain on feeBay now. You could escape for about 40 bucks ...

i just snagged it. thx for the head's up on it. hoping it fits the d-36. still trying to get word back from sugar creek on the carb kits to finish that project up. I pulled the welch plug on the inlet side and it was full of sandy stuff, and the filter wasn't flowing well. Got all that cleaned up, new welch plug is in and sealed with purdy red nail polish the wife let me have.