McCulloch Chain Saws

[HeRoze]

I asked how to get the starter spring back in place on a Power Mac6 over in in homeowner forum....

The reply was to "make a dealer show me".

Can anyone offer "cheaper" advice?

pm sent

 

[HeRoze]

PM 6 shop manual pages 15-16

 

[Eccentric]

Few of you guys might remember that I picked up an 895 quite a while back. Siezed tight. Looking through the ports, no scoring, just rust. Tried everything I could think of, never did let go.

Anyhow, came back across the block today and figured what the hell. Gave it a few little taps with the dead-blow and sure is #### it freed up. Piston looks good, cylinder looks good.

Guess I'll be getting after it - Sam

View attachment 229407

Sometimes you get lucky. Your saw wasn't really 'siezed'. My guess is that it sat for a long time in a damp enviroment. The rings rusted to the bore. Seen that many times. With those, you can often free them up if you're patient. After a bit of cleanup, they run fine, Sometimes even the rings can be saved.

 

[HeRoze]

okay ... saw turns over now. tightened the plug about 1/16th a turn more than I normally do, and 'sealed' it with some neversieze for chuckles.

where to start with the flatback? 1/1.25 turns out L/H?

 

[Eccentric]

okay ... saw turns over now. tightened the plug about 1/16th a turn more than I normally do, and 'sealed' it with some neversieze for chuckles.

where to start with the flatback? 1/1.25 turns out L/H?

1/1 are the factory H/L settings for the flatbacks.

 

[HeRoze]

1/1 are the factory H/L settings for the flatbacks.

normally I open up the low to dial that in, and then turn in the high... I keep the high at least out 1 turn. Is there a point that is typical for 'too lean'?

 

[Eccentric]

normally I open up the low to dial that in, and then turn in the high... I keep the high at least out 1 turn. Is there a point that is typical for 'too lean'?

If you have to go much beyond 7/8 out for the High side for it to run 'right', then you've got carb issues. Metering lever set to high, leaking needle/seat, etc. If you have to open the H side much beyond 1.25 out, then you're dealing with an air leak somewhere.

I get the saw good and warm, adjust the idle speed, tune the H side, then tune the L side, then readjust the idle speed as needed.

 

[Rounder]

Sometimes you get lucky. Your saw wasn't really 'siezed'. My guess is that it sat for a long time in a damp enviroment. The rings rusted to the bore. Seen that many times. With those, you can often free them up if you're patient. After a bit of cleanup, they run fine, Sometimes even the rings can be saved.

Yep, got one ring free, the other will come when it's ready. Gotta check end gap, but everything looks amazingly good so far. The saw came off the coast, must have spent some time in a basement......or the bottom of a swimming pool....

 

[heimannm]

Well I am finally home again, long trip from Ho Chi Minh City via Tokyo - Chicago - Cedar Rapids and finally Dike.

If anyone had a request in the past 4 weeks, now would be a good time to remind me.

Hopefully I will get started on moving the wood pile this week as a neighbor asked me to take down nice sized soft maple in a couple of weeks and I need to make a place to put it.

I did find a couple of saws waiting for me when I got home, 10-10 from joeDA (traded the Oly 254) and an e-bay D-45 from Canada (thanks Duke). I will try to remember and snap a few photo's this week.

Thanks to older son Jeff, I did get some of the saws I picked up just before leaving put up out of the way on Saturday, and even managed to sell one already. I made Josh (younger son) a good deal on the PM700; I know this saw had been setting with lousy fuel for at least two years, probably longer to get as stale as it was. I simply dumped the old fuel out, added fresh mix and in 8 or 9 pulls it was running again. The oiler even worked.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you have to go much beyond 7/8 out for the High side for it to run 'right', then you've got carb issues. Metering lever set to high, leaking needle/seat, etc. If you have to open the H side much beyond 1.25 out, then you're dealing with an air leak somewhere.

I get the saw good and warm, adjust the idle speed, tune the H side, then tune the L side, then readjust the idle speed as needed.

I'm wondering if you shouldn't tune the low side first because the high side jet isn't exposed on low speed and idle but when you run it wide open it includes both the high and the low side.

 

[Eccentric]

I'm wondering if you shouldn't tune the low side first because the high side jet isn't exposed on low speed and idle but when you run it wide open it includes both the high and the low side.

Low speed side doesn't flow enough fuel during high speed opperation that a different L speed needle setting will affect the H side tune. That said, Walbro states that the L side is "usually adjusted first". They give no reason for it however.

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Well I am finally home again, long trip from Ho Chi Minh City via Tokyo - Chicago - Cedar Rapids and finally Dike.

If anyone had a request in the past 4 weeks, now would be a good time to remind me.

Hopefully I will get started on moving the wood pile this week as a neighbor asked me to take down nice sized soft maple in a couple of weeks and I need to make a place to put it.

I did find a couple of saws waiting for me when I got home, 10-10 from joeDA (traded the Oly 254) and an e-bay D-45 from Canada (thanks Duke). I will try to remember and snap a few photo's this week.

Thanks to older son Jeff, I did get some of the saws I picked up just before leaving put up out of the way on Saturday, and even managed to sell one already. I made Josh (younger son) a good deal on the PM700; I know this saw had been setting with lousy fuel for at least two years, probably longer to get as stale as it was. I simply dumped the old fuel out, added fresh mix and in 8 or 9 pulls it was running again. The oiler even worked.

Mark

Hey Mark,

No problem. When I saw it on the listings I thought of you.


Chris

 

[climb_on]

Parts Search for my new PM-1000

Picked up the saw yesterday - wow never used a saw anywhere near this big, what a beast. Got it on CL for $75. Can't wait to start milling some logs on my new Logosol M5! I had asked these questions over in the chainsaw forum, but it was buried at the bottom of another thread, so I thought I should come over here and ask anyway. The saw came with 2 bars and a chain for each (spec below). She runs, but I'll get a tune up on it before I really get after it on the mill. I plan to use .063 3/8 chain (for a bit narrower kerf) on the 30" bar that came with the saw. I've done a lot of researching on this saw but I still have some questions about parts...

• I assume the current sprocket is 3/8, but I don't know the history and want another anyway. Is a correct sprocket going to be hard to come up with for this saw?
• Ideally I'd like narrow kerf (1/4" kerf) ripping chain, but I believe that would require a different bar (which I'd consider if it's available). I can't find anything available for a PM1000 (narrow kerf or otherwise) and Bailey's said they have nothing. To find compatible bars (narrow kerf or otherwise) do I just need to look for a bar with a 9mm slot?
• I'd appreciate any other comments you have as well.

Here are all the specs that I am working from on the bars/chains that came with the saw:
____________________________________________

30” McCulloch Hard Nose Bar (like new)
“P1-MV 30 63” stamped on bar
.063 gauge?
.404 pitch?
“403” stamped on tang
“Super Pro M” Stamped on body of chain
95 Chain Links
____________________________________________

16” Sprocket Nose Bar (was on the saw when I got it)
“P/N GB-11A Pitch 3/8” stamped on nose of bar
“S4 MA 16 50TA” stamped on body of bar
.050 gauge?
3/8” Pitch?
60 Chain Links
“Laser” Stamped on body of chain
“9” or “6” stamped on the tang (depending on what direction you hold the chain)
____________________________________________

 

[heimannm]

That clutch drum has the spline set up so you can put almost any sprocket on it you with. Probably will be a large spline (7/8"?) but check it before you order anything, or just take it off and carry it with you when you go to a shop to look for a sprocket.

You don't want to mess with 1/4" chain, some guys use 3/8 LP for milling due to the smaller kerf and the 3/8LP chain is readily available although there are a variety of opinions whether standard 3/8" sprockets actually fit it properly.

The PM1000 shares the same bar mount as the other 10 Series saws, check the Partner thread for even more information as the PM1000 is really a Partner P100.

Mark

 

[HeRoze]

Low speed side doesn't flow enough fuel during high speed opperation that a different L speed needle setting will affect the H side tune. That said, Walbro states that the L side is "usually adjusted first". They give no reason for it however.

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf

on some tilly's i have (other saws), i adjust the low side WOT, open and close the Low needle until it bogs down on both sides and then WAGging it in the middle somewhere. I hit the high side next, still WOT, closing the High to where it screams and then back off to the 4-cycle sound. back to Low to adjust throttle response. Back to High to get the 4-cycle as it comes out of the wood, if I take the time to tune it in the wood.

Only danger in that is leaning out the low side too much, which is why I was hoping (and got) an answer to how far was too far in....

 

[HeRoze]

I'm wondering if you shouldn't tune the low side first because the high side jet isn't exposed on low speed and idle but when you run it wide open it includes both the high and the low side.

I typically tune Idle last, but haven't messed with tuning the flatbacks before. 1 turn out doesn't seem like much at all on those big needles.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I typically tune Idle last, but haven't messed with tuning the flatbacks before. 1 turn out doesn't seem like much at all on those big needles.

Some of them are actually less than 1 turn and they still run rich. I think it was on Tillotson's website where I read that you start at 1 turn and lean it out from there, so 1 turn is their rich setting!

 

[Dennis Gauge]

ProMac 1000 is the same exact saw as the Partner P100 Super.

Bailey's does so have bars. They're the same as the "large Husqvarna" mount. I believe the designation is "D009."

 

[Warped5]

ProMac 1000 is the same exact saw as the Partner P100 Super.

Bailey's does so have bars. They're the same as the "large Husqvarna" mount. I believe the designation is "D009."

I've got a 24" Mac bar on mine, works great. I believe it is a D176 mount.

 

[HeRoze]

anyone here snag the CL 10-10A from near ATL? good lookin' saw, and you just beat me to it