McCulloch Chain Saws

[Overtrained]

Hey joeymt33 I'm going to put an end to all the nay Sayers and post your vid.

Here's the S250 I'll be restoring.
[video]http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=QtTUxQm7jXg[/video]

 

[1375619cm3]

Someone told me the super 250 has the auto oiler in the gas tank..I was wondering if you could see it by taking the gas cap off and looking inside.

A Few pages back i had asked if a 250 could be switched over to a auto oiller and i believe that it was mark and a few other guys that explained it in depth to me i believe yes that it can be seen (or Parts of it) thru the gas cap ill try to find the exact posts for ya,

Cody McM

 

[1375619cm3]

Heres what they explained to me on the auto oiller on page 1006ish

Cody McM

Yes or no, depends on how your parts were made.

The automatic oil pump for those types of saws were in the fuel tank and operated off crank case pulse pressure; if your existing tank has all the ports and machining, all you need to do is remove the cover and install the pump components.

If not, you would have to replace the fuel tank and stuffer.

Mark

Yep. Some of the manual-only versions these saws don't have a fuel tank with the right ports machined into them at all. Others have them, but there's a blockoff plate in place of the auto oiler pump within the fuel tank. I had a 250 with the blockoff plate (so it could be fitted with an auto oiler pump) and a 200 that did not have the ports (so the fuel tank would have to be replaced with one that does have the ports. You can see the blockoff plate inside the tank (if it's there) by looking through the filler hole. It's about 1/8" thick and bare alluminum. Held against the back wall (closest to the engine) of the fuel tank by screws.



Fuel in these saws (and others where the fuel tank is metal and is in direct contact with the crankcase) just plain boils sometimes. You can lessen it by keeping the inside of the flywheel cover, the engine's cooling fins, and the drivecase (under the clutch cover.........around the clutch) clear of scum buildup. This helps the engine get rid of heat. Also, a cap with a functioning 'duckbil' valve will help keep pressure in the tank (which will raise the boiling temp of the fuel..........just as the pressure cap on your car's fuel system raises the boiling temp of the coolant). The duckbill valve is a one-way rubber valve under that sintered bronse filter in the cap. It lets air IN (to replace the fuel that's being drawn out..........otherwise a vacuum would form......starving the engine of fuel), but doesn't let pressure (or fuel) out of the cap. These duckbill valves have often turned to goo. If the saw pees gas out of the bronze filter in the cap when you tip the saw, then the duckbill ain't working.

For the most part, don't worry about the fuel boiling a bit. It just happens. If it's spraying out/through the cap then you have an issue. Make sure the engine and such is clear of buildup to help with cooling. If you want to take the cap apart (to inspect the duckbill) you need to carefully pry the bronze filter out. You can push it out through the hole in the underside of the cap with a small screwdriver, but that may damage the duckbill. If the duckbill is turned to goo (you should see it in that hole on the underside of the cap) then you might as well push the filter out through the bottom. New duckbills are hard to find (for this application). Bob Johnson or Discount Marine may have 'em still. Randy Duncan had some on feebay a while ago, but his listing ended. You may be able to retrofit the smaller Homelite or Poulan duckbills (which both are still available new) to the Mac cap. I have a Mac cap that somebody retrofitted with a Poulan duckbil. It's still functional. I need to take a closer look to see how they did it. It looks like they used a short length of fuel line as a spacer around the very tiny Poulan duckbill in that large Mac cap hole. I need to put some pics up here.....

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Heres what they explained to me on the auto oiller on page 1006ish

Cody McM

Thanks, Cody. I'll check this saw out and see what it is.

 

[Nogoingback]

I suggest you sell your 105 and use the proceeds to buy used or NOS SP125 tank/chassis pieces, new AV mounts, and other parts you can use to build your Kart saw. You don't need to start with a complete saw (with many parts that you will replace or ditch anyways). Not too many running 105's out there. Lots of parted out SP125's...

That's just silly talk suggesting I sell one of my 105s, the other one would get lonely. Seriously though, after working on it some more tonight with parts from a 200, I decided to go with the 1-76. I got it tore down and it looks like it shouldn't be to bad and the hardest part is going to be notching out the fuel tank and re sealing the new hole.

Going the 125 whole or parts route would great and it definitely would be my first choice if there wasn't a big cost factor. For budget reasons, I wanted to do the build using what I already have and I think a 101 1-76 would be different and pretty cool.

The MAC 15 would be interesting too but the intake and carb would be hanging off the front side of the saw sucking wood chips. I'll use the 15 as plan B if needed.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Nogoingback]

I have a few parts in the attic that might help, but no complete 105/125 to start with.

If you want to go the S44 route but don't want to cut up one of your own, I can find a donor. I owe you one in any case...

If that doesn't work for you, find a new/used tank and just work from there. Many of the other parts will be available individually (front handle, mounts, oil tank, etc.) and you will still have your SP105.

Mark

Thanks for the offer on the S44 but the one I was going to use is a parts saw to begin with and I bailed on the idea of using it pretty quick. The 200 I just disassembled is now a parts saw too and after messing with it tonight I decided to go with the 1-76 instead. Looks very similar to a 125 chassis wise and only the fuel tank should need major cutting and fab work.

You did me a favor by taking the two saws off my hands so I would gladly pay you for a few parts I'll need for this project. I want an auto oiler on the saw but I don't have any thing I can rob one from and I'll need a 125 crank stuffer too. The stuffer on the 1-76 looks very different from the kart one. If you think you got something for me let me know what you'll need. No rush, lots of time before this project is near completion.

 

[OldDeadWood]

What?

Between buying, selling, fixing, hiding, and 101 swap, I'm very confused.

ODW

PS: The 1-76 at 99cc has a lot more snot than the S250.

 

[Overtrained]

Between buying, selling, fixing, hiding, and 101 swap, I'm very confused.

ODW

PS: The 1-76 at 99cc has a lot more snot than the S250.

Well, by popular demand im going for the S250. After thats done ill go for something else, perhaps the 1-76.

 

[Warped5]

.. but the 1-76 will get you into the '6 Cube Club' .....

 

[DFK]

Old mac 10-10

There is an McCulloch 10-10 on the Huntsville, Alabama C-List.
It runs but not right, looks OK..... The guy wants $25.00 for it....

Wishing to learn a bit about Chainsaw repair... I have been pondering buying this saw.

!!!! I know almost nothing about Chainsaw Repair!!!

Would this saw be a good first time repair saw?????
Can parts be found if they are needed???

Thanks
David

 

[heimannm]

Very common model, good parts availability, and an expert member in Guntersville (JoeyMT), you should be golden...

Mark

 

[Overtrained]

.. but the 1-76 will get you into the '6 Cube Club' .....

Where does it end???:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Warped5]

Where does it end???:hmm3grin2orange:

If you find out, please let the rest of us know. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Overtrained]

There is an McCulloch 10-10 on the Huntsville, Alabama C-List.
It runs but not right, looks OK..... The guy wants $25.00 for it....

Wishing to learn a bit about Chainsaw repair... I have been pondering buying this saw.

!!!! I know almost nothing about Chainsaw Repair!!!

Would this saw be a good first time repair saw?????
Can parts be found if they are needed???

Thanks
David

I just finished working on a 10 series saw, they are not difficult to work on if you have mechanical skills else where. Good luck, it wont be the last saw you buy

Very common model, good parts availability, and an expert member in Guntersville (JoeyMT), you should be golden...

Mark

x2 if you are buying it from Joey

 

[Overtrained]

If you find out, please let the rest of us know. :hmm3grin2orange:

I think there is a better chance that I could learn to walk on water

 

[Eccentric]

That's just silly talk suggesting I sell one of my 105s, the other one would get lonely. Seriously though, after working on it some more tonight with parts from a 200, I decided to go with the 1-76. I got it tore down and it looks like it shouldn't be to bad and the hardest part is going to be notching out the fuel tank and re sealing the new hole.

Going the 125 whole or parts route would great and it definitely would be my first choice if there wasn't a big cost factor. For budget reasons, I wanted to do the build using what I already have and I think a 101 1-76 would be different and pretty cool.

The MAC 15 would be interesting too but the intake and carb would be hanging off the front side of the saw sucking wood chips. I'll use the 15 as plan B if needed.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Not as silly as gutting and cutting one of your SP105's while the other watched in horror......:yoyo:

You're going th have to rig up some way to secure your cut up tank to the engine. Stock, the tank is held to the engine at the reed block...........and you're going to be cutting that all away to make room for the sloper intake manifold assembly. Not sure if you can cut enough of the center of the tank assembly to clear the sloper manifold and still save the areas where the attaching bolts go through. The same bolts that hold the sloper manifold to the engine would also hold the tank down. Again, not sure if it'd work...

The AV saws (SP/CP125, SP/PM105) attach the tank by the rubber/steel AV mounts at the front and rear of the saw (and the stock manifold is bolted to the engine........with a rubber intake boot connecting that to the tank). When you cut out the central intake manifold portion of the tank on an AV saw (to make room for a sloper intake), the AV mounts are still intact. I'm watching your build up with interest, as I have a 790 tank (basically the same as your 1-76 tank) with a broken carb flange that I'm saving to 'some day' cut and modify for a Kart saw project.

 

[DFK]

Joey and I have passed a few PM in the past about other subjects.
He is about 100 miles east of the house. I am quite sure Joey is NOT the seller of this
saw but, I have not contacted the seller yet so I guess it is possible.

I have OK mechanical skills on things I understand.
Dont yet understand saws

If I buy it you guys are going to be getting some questions.

Thanks for the replies.

David

 

[Overtrained]

Joey and I have passed a few PM in the past about other subjects.
He is about 100 miles east of the house. I am quite sure Joey is NOT the seller of this
saw but, I have not contacted the seller yet so I guess it is possible.

I have OK mechanical skills on things I understand.
Dont yet understand saws

If I buy it you guys are going to be getting some questions.

Thanks for the replies.

David

I'm new to this hobby as well. Its like anything, just dive in and get your feet wet and it will come to you. Ive been on many forums between cars, jeeps and everything in between. This is the best group of guys I have met hands down, everyone is willing to help out.

P.S. Its a added bonus you chose team yellow

Dennis

 

[joeymt33]

Joey and I have passed a few PM in the past about other subjects.
He is about 100 miles east of the house. I am quite sure Joey is NOT the seller of this
saw but, I have not contacted the seller yet so I guess it is possible.

I have OK mechanical skills on things I understand.
Dont yet understand saws

If I buy it you guys are going to be getting some questions.

Thanks for the replies.

David

I could help supply parts if you need it. It's not my saw in Huntsville Craigslist that is for sale.

What Mark H meant by expert is, for you to watch me and learn not how to do it. It's amazing what you can fix with three things, hammer, super glue, and duct tape. That's my tools

Seriously though, i forgot where you're at, but you're welcome to come by the shop anytime to dig through the parts

Joey

 

[promac850]

Alright... I'm back for a couple questions.

Does anyone know where I can buy a gasket kit for the 790? I need the stuffer, intake/reed plate, side cover, and whatever other gaskets may be needed for the proper sealing of the engine.

I have found (well, more of remembered some of the resident Mac heads mentioning the site) a place that has gasket kits for the kart engines... is there a kart kit that will work properly with the stock 790 reed plate and intake?

I already made a gasket to seal the two tank halves. I'll get a pic up later tonight that will give you an idea of my color scheme. Well, it's yellow and black, but not really in the typical fashion.

Also looking for crank seals.


The barn is much cleaner than it has been in months... nice to be able to walk around or work on a project and not having to worry about tripping over something and getting impaled/lose an eye/broken bones/etc.