McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian13]

Overtrained, get the 1-76 and the S250!! Even if its just a 250, its still a good saw.

 

[promac850]

Here's that pic I promised...

I'm starting to get excited... tomorrow, I'll be bugging a Mac parts guy that most of you are probably familiar with.

Somehow that parts source got lost in my cluttered brain.

 

[Overtrained]

Overtrained, get the 1-76 and the S250!! Even if its just a 250, its still a good saw.

Its def a S250, there is a vid of it a page or so back that i posted.

 

[rwoods]

Kyle, you been AWOL for some time. Welcome back. Have you tried the North American swap stickie? Ron

 

[Nogoingback]

Messed up.

 

[Nogoingback]

Not as silly as gutting and cutting one of your SP105's while the other watched in horror......:yoyo:

You're going th have to rig up some way to secure your cut up tank to the engine. Stock, the tank is held to the engine at the reed block...........and you're going to be cutting that all away to make room for the sloper intake manifold assembly. Not sure if you can cut enough of the center of the tank assembly to clear the sloper manifold and still save the areas where the attaching bolts go through. The same bolts that hold the sloper manifold to the engine would also hold the tank down. Again, not sure if it'd work...

The AV saws (SP/CP125, SP/PM105) attach the tank by the rubber/steel AV mounts at the front and rear of the saw (and the stock manifold is bolted to the engine........with a rubber intake boot connecting that to the tank). When you cut out the central intake manifold portion of the tank on an AV saw (to make room for a sloper intake), the AV mounts are still intact. I'm watching your build up with interest, as I have a 790 tank (basically the same as your 1-76 tank) with a broken carb flange that I'm saving to 'some day' cut and modify for a Kart saw project.

Now I really feel bad for even considering doing that.:bang:


Started on the tank Wednesday night by cutting out the stock intake and making a rough opening for the new one. Still have lots of grinding to do before I'm even close to getting it to fit over sloper. Also got a good idea for how I'm going to bolt the tank down without using the original holes since they'll be completely gone. I'm thinking of using studs in the block instead of screwing the intake down and then use some small brackets that can be bolted to the inside of the tank and then slid down over the studs. I'll try to post some pics soon of what I'm trying to explain. I have it figured out pretty well too for resealing the tank with new giant hole it.

Project should begin picking up speed shortly.

 

[Brian13]

Its def a S250, there is a vid of it a page or so back that i posted.

Must have missed that, this thread can move quickly. Well then in that case get both!! You wont be sorry.

 

[Overtrained]

Heres some mini mac clutch carnage. I guess I worked the saw a little to hard.

 

[dieselsmoke]

Here's that pic I promised...

I'm starting to get excited... tomorrow, I'll be bugging a Mac parts guy that most of you are probably familiar with.

Somehow that parts source got lost in my cluttered brain.

Looks pretty good for a start. Man you've got a long way to go.

For your crank seals, just take the old parts, bearing and it's seal down to your local bearing supply house, He should be able to pull new stuff right off the shelf. I did a MaC 380 that had eaten a bearing on the PTO side, The local bearing supplier had all I needed in stock. No special order.

 

[Warped5]

Heres some mini mac clutch carnage. I guess I worked the saw a little to hard.

Nah, you just put it out of its misery .... and saved yourself a boatload of it, too! :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Overtrained]

Nah, you just put it out of its misery .... and saved yourself a boatload of it, too! :hmm3grin2orange:

Nahhhh its an easy fix! It was actually running when it happened. Its not like i pulled the starter cord a 100x trying to get it to run and blew the clutch apart in the process....that has prob happened though haha

 

[promac850]

Looks pretty good for a start. Man you've got a long way to go.

For your crank seals, just take the old parts, bearing and it's seal down to your local bearing supply house, He should be able to pull new stuff right off the shelf. I did a MaC 380 that had eaten a bearing on the PTO side, The local bearing supplier had all I needed in stock. No special order.

As for bearing supply house, do you mean Fastenal or someone else? Last time I went to Motion Industries, the guy there said they didn't have bearings or seals for it.


Here's the sod... the second of two loads that I hauled to a compost pile down by the produce garden. Stupid fuel pump inertia switch gave me a few problems today... blasted thingamajig. So after some down time figuring the thing out (and there possibly is something else making the truck not start sometimes) I got this second load moved.

How is this related to McCullochs? Look at the shock in the passenger side wheel well. It's yellow. The other three shocks are yellow as well, you just can't see them from either angle.

 

[Overtrained]

How is this related to McCullochs? Look at the shock in the passenger side wheel well. It's yellow. The other three shocks are yellow as well, you just can't see them from either angle.

Bilsteins?

 

[heimannm]

Kyle, either talk with someone else at Motion, or take the old parts with you. Certainly they should be able to match you up with good quality replacement parts. The won't recognize McCulloch part numbers, but the bearings and seals are industry standards and are easy to find. Make sure to get C3 fit on the bearings as they have a little extra clearance to help deal with the heat.

Mark

 

[promac850]

Bilsteins?

Nope... way out of my price range... those are Tenneco (Monroe) shocks that I got for 10 ish bucks a piece off of RA. Made in the USA too!

They came with a white EDP primer applied... I coated them with JD Yellow tractor/farm equipment paint. In fact, it is the same paint that is on the fuel tank and air box lettering/lines. Rustoleum offers that paint at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc. Probably a fortune cheaper than paint from JD themselves...

Paint was brushed on... looks great until you get a bit too close, then you can tell some brush streaks and a couple of runs from too much paint.

 

[dieselsmoke]

Kyle, Read what Mark said, you gotta take the actual bearings and seals up to the counter, and they will come up with the part numbers that the bearing mfg. use. I did a quick check to see if I still had my receipt for bearings and seals, and no luck. Motion Ind. should be your best bet. Good luck.

 

[Overtrained]

Nope... way out of my price range... those are Tenneco (Monroe) shocks that I got for 10 ish bucks a piece off of RA. Made in the USA too!

They came with a white EDP primer applied... I coated them with JD Yellow tractor/farm equipment paint. In fact, it is the same paint that is on the fuel tank and air box lettering/lines. Rustoleum offers that paint at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc. Probably a fortune cheaper than paint from JD themselves...

Paint was brushed on... looks great until you get a bit too close, then you can tell some brush streaks and a couple of runs from too much paint.

I have that paint in a spray can. It's probably a lot more durable in brush form.

 

[promac850]

I have that paint in a spray can. It's probably a lot more durable in brush form.

From what I've heard, brushing is almost always tougher and more durable than spraying.

However, if you want a spray bomb job to last like a brushed job, you're going to be using a lot of spray cans. It isn't impossible, but it does take a lot of work, patience, etc.

I only have the handle (upper one that bolts to the carb box/fuel tank, and the lower shroud/handle contraption) and the recoil/clutch cover to deal with in terms of painting.


Ron, thanks for the warm welcome. It indeed has been a while since I've babbled and drooled all over the yellow thread.

Forgot to call the parts guy. (d'oh!) I'll be over to post in the old mag thread.

 

[GrizzlyAdams86]

On the Mac 15 hotsaw topic, I wonder how hard it would be to shoehorn a West Bend 820 engine into one? Dad has a good 820 engine collecting dust in his shop somewhere.

 

[joeymt33]

What's the news on the 6 cube 10-series?