ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
And a stick of dynamite in the exhaust to stop it overheating
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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And a stick of dynamite in the exhaust to stop it overheating
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Gear reduction works wonders. It'd do fine with a 60" bar too. The operator would have a bit more trouble limbing with it however.
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promac850
formerly promac610
my 890 sports a 42" if i remember right. does fine.
Yeah... only difference there is the gearbox... gobs of torque, low chain speed. Stand on it and it won't stall or even slow down...
I am still a little confused though. 36" bar max. for a 103cc saw? I'm guessing you're stating that for hardwood. I can recall Randy mentioned using a 32" bar on a PM850... but that was in the ultra soft PNW wood, right?
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Many variables change what's "best" for a given situation....
That was Lee's recomendation for Kyle and his saw...........not the absolute max for the saw (he just said that five feet would be "a bit much" for it). RandyMac says you can run a 48" bar with a 103cc Mac with the right chain and the right wood (and I of course believe him). Neither circumstance fits Kyle or what he'll be doing with that saw. Randy's also used a 36" bar on an 82cc Mac in pine (with an 8 pin rim). That again takes special care with the chain setup. Bet you can't "reef" on it in that case either. My 82cc SP-81 does fine with a 32" bar and a 7 pin rim. I made some cuts with that bar burried in a large maple a few months ago. My other SP-81 came to me with a 33" bar. For 'general use' I agree with Lee in that a 28"-36" bar makes more sense for Kyle and his 790. I have a 31" Cannon RN for mine (and a .404-8 rim).
That was Lee's recomendation for Kyle and his saw...........not the absolute max for the saw (he just said that five feet would be "a bit much" for it). RandyMac says you can run a 48" bar with a 103cc Mac with the right chain and the right wood (and I of course believe him). Neither circumstance fits Kyle or what he'll be doing with that saw. Randy's also used a 36" bar on an 82cc Mac in pine (with an 8 pin rim). That again takes special care with the chain setup. Bet you can't "reef" on it in that case either. My 82cc SP-81 does fine with a 32" bar and a 7 pin rim. I made some cuts with that bar burried in a large maple a few months ago. My other SP-81 came to me with a 33" bar. For 'general use' I agree with Lee in that a 28"-36" bar makes more sense for Kyle and his 790. I have a 31" Cannon RN for mine (and a .404-8 rim).
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Overtrained
Not crazy, Stoopid!
When I made my sig name it was in regards to my gym habits. As far as my mechanical abilty im a jack of all trades master of none. Best tip i can give you regarding any mini mac is have patience with them. It sucks you have to pull the whole thing apart to get to just about anything in the saw. At the end of the day it works like any other 2 cycle. If you get fed up then just hunt another one down, most of em can be had for free. Good luck.
Kyle, if you are going to use the saw as oppose to just looking at it I would get a 32" bar. That is what I use most on my 125s and they balance well with it. I have longer ones 36", 42" and 52". I used the 36" until I got the 32". I have never used the 42" (hardnose) and I have only played with the 52" roller nose; they do look cool on the shelf but are a real pain to put in a vehicle. The last 4" of a 36" seems like a foot so by the time you work up to a 48" it seems you gained 4 feet when you go to load it. Anyways wood over 4' is pretty rare for me. A 32" bar handles this easily. Ron
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
Kyle, here is a 95cc saw with a 48 inch roller nose bar and full comp .404, it pulls it just fine in this 32" piece of seasoned elm. The problem is it is heavy and unwieldy, fun to cut a few cookies but as you can see in the video I have to take a knee. Sorry about the homie, my biggest running mac is a SP80.
[video=youtube;0o0p8ZDAURM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o0p8ZDAURM[/video]
[video=youtube;0o0p8ZDAURM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o0p8ZDAURM[/video]
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Gentlemen and Aaron.
Yeah, much over 42" can be too much for the six cube class, with 36" it should tear the hell out of anything. When I get to it, the 790 will have a 42" roller on it. The 550 has the 36" from the Super 250, it balances nicely. I'm taking the 36" 3/8" pitch from the other 250 and putting it on the Super, the 250 will get a 30" or a 24".
I played with three bar lengths on the 850, 28", 32" and 36". I found for my use, the three footer covered everything from limbing to falling. I had two "styles" of chain for it, one for Pine and Abies firs, the other for Second Growth Redwood. Both were square filed, the difference was in the bit angles, raker height and profile. The 850 was at it's best with those types of trees in the 30-40" range. When there was Sierra Doug Fir or Red Cedar, the Super 250 took over.
The 123cc models handle 60" bars well, if you match the chain to the wood. As I have said before, the standard "grind" is a compromise between cutting efficiency and service life.
Oh waiter!
This ultra softwood you mentioned, what are you talking about?
Yeah, much over 42" can be too much for the six cube class, with 36" it should tear the hell out of anything. When I get to it, the 790 will have a 42" roller on it. The 550 has the 36" from the Super 250, it balances nicely. I'm taking the 36" 3/8" pitch from the other 250 and putting it on the Super, the 250 will get a 30" or a 24".
I played with three bar lengths on the 850, 28", 32" and 36". I found for my use, the three footer covered everything from limbing to falling. I had two "styles" of chain for it, one for Pine and Abies firs, the other for Second Growth Redwood. Both were square filed, the difference was in the bit angles, raker height and profile. The 850 was at it's best with those types of trees in the 30-40" range. When there was Sierra Doug Fir or Red Cedar, the Super 250 took over.
The 123cc models handle 60" bars well, if you match the chain to the wood. As I have said before, the standard "grind" is a compromise between cutting efficiency and service life.
Oh waiter!
This ultra softwood you mentioned, what are you talking about?
Help for a potential new MAC man.
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron
Randy, no doubts on my part. However, one must know how to sharpen a chain well and have big wood. I can't and don't. I would wager that Kyle is in the same boat. Hope the moving preps are going well for you. Ron
PS Why single out poor Aaron? I know he is a little different with the towel protecting his IH dash board and all (a good thick layer of dust works well for me) but otherwise he seems to be alright.
PS Why single out poor Aaron? I know he is a little different with the towel protecting his IH dash board and all (a good thick layer of dust works well for me) but otherwise he seems to be alright.
Warped5
WingNut
Yeah Randy, don't single out the youngster. He contributes a lot and his home-brew recipe for degreaser is very good!
..... let him pump out the bilge. :hmm3grin2orange:
promac850
formerly promac610
I suppose I may have exaggerated the softness of PNW soft wood trees... they aren't much softer than a typical pine tree over here, are they?
Ron, you're right about sharpening chains... I do my best, but it sure isn't scientific or extremely precise. My chains make big chips and bite, that's all I care about. I don't tune depth gauges/rakers or anything to the wood I'm cutting, just too many variables when you're dealing with firewood and random blowdowns. If I were logging one type of tree, then I might bother with every little detail.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron
That's the trouble with Macs. I have no fewer than 2 guesses for every one of those...
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron
I think I see a PM850 next to the blue C5 Homelite, The one in front of the red Homelite looks like a Model 47, the one far left of the red Homelite looks to be a 740 but could be any # of saws that were made in that style, the one in the middle is another 10 series the one on the bottom left looks to be a 1-40 series, and the one on top is a SP or CP big block. I may be completely wrong but will be close.
3-25 on top, SP125, 1-76, 1-46, PM850, 10-10 parts saw in the middle.
Mark
Mark
Overtrained
Not crazy, Stoopid!
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron
Someone was painting a car or tractor near those saws, looks like they are coated in over spray.
bob15
ArboristSite Operative
What type of wood will you be cutting? Oak, Rock Maple, Locust, Hickory or soft wood like pine or hemlock?
When i was using my 795, I had a 36 hard nose with a .404 skip tooth chain on it and it cut fine, but feel it would start to struggle a bit with anything longer. I now run that 36" bar and/or a 42 incher on my SP-125. The 42 inch is mainly for stump work. I run the 5 cubers with 28 & 24 inch bars, with the 28" bar with a full skip chain. I could run a longer bar, but I cut 99% hard wood and feel the 5 cube saw would struggle, when compared to the SP-125 or the 795.
promac850
formerly promac610
It will probably be both soft and hard woods. I'll stick with a 36" and see about building something even bigger for the longer bars...
Dang, that's what I was going to say. Guess you beat me to it. :msp_biggrin:
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