McCulloch Chain Saws

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Mark,tnx for the help,,got it done !
you werent kidding when you said take off a LOT !! but it was all pretty straight foreward..
dont know what they used for sealant but after carefull cleaning and prep i used an anerobic (sp) sealant that i use on cyl to base.
i heard someplace that the timber bear ( this one) for some reason is supposed to be more powerfull than the other models in it's class ??

I have a couple of the Timber Bear 610 saws and they indeed seem to have more power than similar models. No contest between it and something like a Super XL.
 
I have and had a bunch of the super Xl models.. ( prob 8+ now )
had and have a bunch of the 610 models.. ( prob 6+ now )
the anti vibe gives the Mac the edge..
for less weight,better handling and faster cutting the homie is way ahead..
hard to say,,cut faster easier with numb hands or cut slower for longer ??
if i was a home owner in the back yard i would go with the 610 :)
 
Thought I would show some of my Mac bar collection, as it's too damn hot to work on the saws.....

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I'm not one of the experts BTW...
but you can adjust the oil flow. Drain the bar oil (or stand the saw vertically with oil tank up). Remove the oil tank cover (1 screw). The oiler has an adjustment bolt that sticks up, with a jam nut to hold it in position. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjustment bolt in to reduce flow. It can be sensitive to small adjustments, try maybe 1/2 turn in. Snug up the jam nut, fill with oil, and see how much difference it makes. Repeat as necessary.
120 PSI is not anything to brag about, but perfectly acceptable and it should run fine and have good power. Also I found that some compression guages read low with chainsaws due to the small displacement. A comp guage suitable for small engines will have a relatively short hose and will have a schrader valve in the fitting that screws into the spark plug hole.

I pulled the cover and took a peak. I believe what you are referring to is the bolt that's sticking out of, what I am assuming to be, the oiler (the black piece in the photo). It doesn't have a jam nut though, which is why I want to confirm before I start turning screws..lol See the attached photo. There is, what looks to be, a bolt end with a nut on the end at the upper right hand corner of the photo, but I don't think this is what you are referring to. What is that anyway?

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BTW, I re-tested mine and my buddies and his tested out at 140psi and mine a hair over 120psi. This is probably why his seems stronger than mine.

thanks!
Paul
 
And a couple more bars...

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Brand new 72" Mac bar
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Missing in pictures, but have: used bow bar, painted PM6, a Mini Mac 6 and a 36" 10 series black mac speed bar.

Any other bars that I'm missing? I have one stamped flying goose (I think), did Mac make any paints goose bars? I think there is a couple 70's and 80's bar i missing...but not 100% sure.

bob
 
I pulled the cover and took a peak. I believe what you are referring to is the bolt that's sticking out of, what I am assuming to be, the oiler (the black piece in the photo). It doesn't have a jam nut though, which is why I want to confirm before I start turning screws..lol See the attached photo. There is, what looks to be, a bolt end with a nut on the end at the upper right hand corner of the photo, but I don't think this is what you are referring to. What is that anyway?

View attachment 247999

BTW, I re-tested mine and my buddies and his tested out at 140psi and mine a hair over 120psi. This is probably why his seems stronger than mine.

thanks!
Paul

Looks like the nut is missing on the adjuster at the bottom of your picture. IN=LESS
 
The automatic oilers did not all have a jam nut, or at least several that I've had apart did not have any jam nut. The threads are tight enough that they will keep the adjuster screw from moving.

bob15, nice collection of McBars.

Mark

I think the ones with the nut are those that have the spring lever to help seal the oiler seal (part no. 89114 or "oiler clamp" in MAC speak) and/or the removable outlet valve cover (part # 62407). Otherwise as you pointed out, I don't believe they have the nut. Ron
 
I enjoyed the bars as well. Just nosy -what kind of wood do you have curing in the attic? Ron

Most of it is 1x8x10' white pine. It will be the siding on the front of the garage. There are a few pieces of 1x12 up there as well.


Glad you guys liked the bars.....

bob
 
Just finished the leeha block last month and I'll be showing and running the 125cc beast with the Ives racing seals and bearings at my GTG thought I'de share it and yes paccity will post the photos for us he does a great job in that dept
 
here's the latest yellow beast. i actually paid a little green for it. but the unused roller nose and chain was worth it in spades.:msp_wink:
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. and a little pose .
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Found this 10-10S for sale locally....what would be a good price?

I found this 10-10S for sale locally and it seems to be in GREAT shape. If everything checks out and it runs good, what would be a fair price? I don't need it and I probably wouldn't use it all that much, but with the condition it looks like it is in I may want to pick it up just to have it...lol I just want to see what you Mac guys think it's worth. I wouldn't be buying to to flip it, so I'm not planning on making any money on the deal, I just don't want to overpay for it.

thanks!
Paul

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I found this 10-10S for sale locally and it seems to be in GREAT shape. If everything checks out and it runs good, what would be a fair price? I don't need it and I probably wouldn't use it all that much, but with the condition it looks like it is in I may want to pick it up just to have it...lol I just want to see what you Mac guys think it's worth. I wouldn't be buying to to flip it, so I'm not planning on making any money on the deal, I just don't want to overpay for it.

thanks!
Paul

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I have 2 10-10s saws, one I paid $40 for and the other I paid $35. Both, in my opinion were worth in excess of $100. The one you have pictured is slightly better so might fetch a little more. You should be able to get it for less than $150 in my opinion.
 
thanks guys! They are asking $125 for it and thought about offering them $100 if it checks out. Any markings on it which would place an approximate year on it? Seems they were made from '82-'98, I'm guessing it's much closer to '98.
 
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