McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

I believe the oil pick up fitting on the 600 Series saws offset towards the recoil side of the tank.

My guess is the hose is either missing completely, or may be broken off or just missing the weighted pick up (just a screen, not really a "filter") and so the hose or fitting are not in the oil when the saw is turned with the clutch side down. Certainly the nipple in the tank is out of the oil when the saw is sitting upright.

You should be able to look in the tank and see if the hose is connected, you may even be able to fish it out to check on the pick up.

Mark

 

[roncoinc]

I believe the oil pick up fitting on the 600 Series saws offset towards the recoil side of the tank.

My guess is the hose is either missing completely, or may be broken off or just missing the weighted pick up (just a screen, not really a "filter") and so the hose or fitting are not in the oil when the saw is turned with the clutch side down. Certainly the nipple in the tank is out of the oil when the saw is sitting upright.

You should be able to look in the tank and see if the hose is connected, you may even be able to fish it out to check on the pick up.

Mark

Tnx Mark,what i needed was something to confirm what i was thinking before i went "fishing" blind.
i suppose when i look i will be able to see about a new hookup if needed without a major dissasembly.

 

[roncoinc]

I FOUND IT !
dont look like a break,like it fell off ?? second thot probly broke off and a piece of hose still on the barb.
now what the hell i do ??
ispection light didnt show much.
is there a way to pull the tank and pull the barb and redo it ??

 

[heimannm]

There are 4 screws holding the oil tank to the crank case. You will have to take a lot of stuff off to get to them including the flywheel, oil pump, and the shield behind the clutch. Most of the fasteners on the 600 Series saws are metric so be careful and don't mix them up with your vintage McCulloch stock.

If you need an IPL to help guide you, PM me with your e-mail address.

Mark

 

[cpr]

Have a showing tomorrow for the house. There "was" a dead 3" dbh tree off the corner of the garage. I whacked it with the 1-72! First saw I've started in weeks, haha!

 

[JRHAWK9]

Oiler issue Pro Mac 10-10....too much oil

I received my $28 Pro Mac 10-10 off of eBay and it seems to run fine. I think it was sitting awhile though as it took quite awhile to get going. Once it fired it took right off and it seems to start with one pull now when warm. We'll see how it starts after sitting a few days. The cylinder looks good from what little I can see looking through the spark plug hole. The plug also looked good.

Anyway, it seems to have an oiler issue, it oils too much. This one has a manual oiler button, but I don't even have to touch it. When I get done bucking a log up and leave it idle for a few seconds, it will sling a decent amount of oil off the chain as soon as I throttle up. It goes through oil like mad....and I never touch the manual oiler button. Does anyone know what would cause this to happen?

Also, I checked the compression and it's only at a hair over 120psi warm. What's normal compression for these saws??

thanks!

 

[Warped5]

I received my $28 Pro Mac 10-10 off of eBay and it seems to run fine. I think it was sitting awhile though as it took quite awhile to get going. Once it fired it took right off and it seems to start with one pull now when warm. We'll see how it starts after sitting a few days. The cylinder looks good from what little I can see looking through the spark plug hole. The plug also looked good.

Anyway, it seems to have an oiler issue, it oils too much. This one has a manual oiler button, but I don't even have to touch it. When I get done bucking a log up and leave it idle for a few seconds, it will sling a decent amount of oil off the chain as soon as I throttle up. It goes through oil like mad....and I never touch the manual oiler button. Does anyone know what would cause this to happen?

Also, I checked the compression and it's only at a hair over 120psi warm. What's normal compression for these saws??

thanks!

Congrats on the new-to-you 10-10 ..

I've never heard (yet) of one of these that oiled TOO much, it's usually the other way around. IIRC, these oilers are ALWAYS oiling when running, not just when the chain is moving. Maybe this would help explain it.

Experience shows me that there's just no 'absolutely correct' amount of compression for any saw. All I know is that all my 10-series saws are fairly stout.

Some of the experts will be along momentarily ....

 

[watsonr]

I answered on the main page and will again here... in more detail.

The pro 10-10 is equipped with automatic oiling and will oil the chain even when sitting at idle, the reason it slings off a bunch after sitting on the ground. The manual oiler is for extra oil and normally won't need to be used. The old saws oiled very well because the oil was different than the bar oil of today. Today's saws oil well, just that the oil is different, designed to stick to the chain better, require less to be effective and a little more friendly to mother earth.

They put the manual oiler on the saw because people were used to pushing the button, even though the auto oiler did the trick. They eventually just stopped putting the plunger on, you see some older Homelites with a medal screw covering the plunger hole still in use today. Having to re manufacture the case to not include the plunger hole probably was not cost effective so it was installed or plugged for the transition.

Hope this answers your question. I don't believe its adjustable, just a little more messier'

120s not bad and some of these will run down to around 85-90. When cooler the compression will be a little higher. I'd run the saw as is, pick-up a set of rings for later as long as there are no issues starting or running it. readily available on eBay and inexpensive. Typical compression is around 145- 155 for a saw with like new compression.

 

[boda65]

I'm not one of the experts BTW...
but you can adjust the oil flow. Drain the bar oil (or stand the saw vertically with oil tank up). Remove the oil tank cover (1 screw). The oiler has an adjustment bolt that sticks up, with a jam nut to hold it in position. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjustment bolt in to reduce flow. It can be sensitive to small adjustments, try maybe 1/2 turn in. Snug up the jam nut, fill with oil, and see how much difference it makes. Repeat as necessary.
120 PSI is not anything to brag about, but perfectly acceptable and it should run fine and have good power. Also I found that some compression guages read low with chainsaws due to the small displacement. A comp guage suitable for small engines will have a relatively short hose and will have a schrader valve in the fitting that screws into the spark plug hole.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Thanks for the good info guys!

It makes perfect sense now why I had puddles of bar oil after leaving the saw run awhile while reving it w/o putting it in any wood and why it slings oil when revving after it idles a bit. I'm used to the oilers that only oil when the chain's moving. I will have to check into that adjustment.

As far as my compression, I have a buddies Pro Mac 10-10 here that's the identical model # (12-600014U) and his tests out at 130ish. His does seem to have a bit more power too. I will check mine cold. Mine seems to really drop rpm's when put in the wood. I have it tuned by ear so it cycles under no load and cleans up in the wood. It just seems to drop rpm's relatively easy. It does have a crappy older anti-kickback chain on it though compared to the brand new LPX on my buddies saw.

I thought about picking up a set of rings for it but I'm not sure what ones I need. I saw rings on eBay for the Pro 10-10 that are made for different bore sizes. I read the bore should be 1.75", but I saw rings on eBay which are larger but are still listed for my model number. What gives?

 

[Warped5]

Thanks for the good info guys!

It makes perfect sense now why I had puddles of bar oil after leaving the saw run awhile while reving it w/o putting it in any wood and why it slings oil when revving after it idles a bit. I'm used to the oilers that only oil when the chain's moving. I will have to check into that adjustment.

As far as my compression, I have a buddies Pro Mac 10-10 here that's the identical model # (12-600014U) and his tests out at 130ish. His does seem to have a bit more power too. I will check mine cold. Mine seems to really drop rpm's when put in the wood. I have it tuned by ear so it cycles under no load and cleans up in the wood. It just seems to drop rpm's relatively easy. It does have a crappy older anti-kickback chain on it though compared to the brand new LPX on my buddies saw.

I thought about picking up a set of rings for it but I'm not sure what ones I need. I saw rings on eBay for the Pro 10-10 that are made for different bore sizes. I read the bore should be 1.75", but I saw rings on eBay which are larger but are still listed for my model number. What gives?

Referencing Acres' site here ..

In the series there was a Pro Mac 10-10 ... Pro 10-10A and a Pro Mac 10-10S. The first two show 54cc and the 'S' is 57cc.

The first two have a bore of 1.750" and the 'S' has a bore of 1.812".

With all the parts swapping that previous owners of that saw may or may not have done, the only way to know for sure is to measure your bore.

 

[watsonr]

Referencing Acres' site here ..

In the series there was a Pro Mac 10-10 ... Pro 10-10A and a Pro Mac 10-10S. The first two show 54cc and the 'S' is 57cc.

The first two have a bore of 1.750" and the 'S' has a bore of 1.812".

With all the parts swapping that previous owners of that saw may or may not have done, the only way to know for sure is to measure your bore.

Great into right there... they were 54cc except the super, made to compete with the Super XL automatic HOMELITE and will normally win! Super 10-10 was a fast and reliable saw in its day... still a great saw and fun to run!!:msp_wink:

 

[JRHAWK9]

OK, here's another one. Like I mentioned above, I have two Pro Mac 10-10's currently in my possession....both model # 12-600014U. My muffler has a deflector on it and the side cover has a "missing slot" towards the bottom for the exhaust. The other has some sort of valve type muffler and the side cover isn't missing any "slots". Any idea why the difference?

thanks!

 

[Eccentric]

OK, here's another one. Like I mentioned above, I have two Pro Mac 10-10's currently in my possession....both model # 12-600014U. My muffler has a deflector on it and the side cover has a "missing slot" towards the bottom for the exhaust. The other has some sort of valve type muffler and the side cover isn't missing any "slots". Any idea why the difference?

thanks!

That 'valve type' muffler is one of the reed mufflers. McCulloch used several different mufflers on the 10-series saws.................even on the same models.

 

[roncoinc]

There are 4 screws holding the oil tank to the crank case. You will have to take a lot of stuff off to get to them including the flywheel, oil pump, and the shield behind the clutch. Most of the fasteners on the 600 Series saws are metric so be careful and don't mix them up with your vintage McCulloch stock.

If you need an IPL to help guide you, PM me with your e-mail address.

Mark

Mark,tnx for the help,,got it done !
you werent kidding when you said take off a LOT !! but it was all pretty straight foreward..
dont know what they used for sealant but after carefull cleaning and prep i used an anerobic (sp) sealant that i use on cyl to base.
i heard someplace that the timber bear ( this one) for some reason is supposed to be more powerfull than the other models in it's class ??

 

[JRHAWK9]

That 'valve type' muffler is one of the reed mufflers. McCulloch used several different mufflers on the 10-series saws.................even on the same models.

Is it just me or is the deflector muffler a bit louder than the reed one? It seems like it is, but who knows.

 

[Warped5]

Is it just me or is the deflector muffler a bit louder than the reed one? It seems like it is, but who knows.

Got neighbors you don't get along with?

6 AM is a great time for a side-by-side comparison! :jester:

 

[JRHAWK9]

Got neighbors you don't get along with?

6 AM is a great time for a side-by-side comparison! :jester:

We really don't have any real close neighbors. Although the one down the road are a bunch of morons....maybe I need to do a traveling comparison and bring them to their driveway! lol

I do have a decibel meter though, I may have to put it to use.

I metered my other saws before I got my 10-10 and my ported 390XPW is the loudest one I have so far (including my buddies 10-10)....at idle at least.

 

[Eccentric]

Is it just me or is the deflector muffler a bit louder than the reed one? It seems like it is, but who knows.

The 10-series saws are loud (no matter what muffler they have). To my ears, the 'quality' of the noise made by these saws improves with displacement. The 54cc 10-series seem to have the sharpest 'crack'. The 70cc variants (7-10A, PM700, etc) sound MUCH better (although they're certainly not any quieter), and the 82cc saws (SP-81, PM850, etc) sound better still. I've never ran (or even heard) any of the 60cc class 10-series saws, but my guess is that they're closer to the 54cc saws in terms of sound 'quality'. The only 10-series mufflers that really tame the bark at all are the "2 pounders" used on the later 82cc saws such as the PM800's, PM8200's, and DE-80's, and those mufflers are just too big and heavy. That's my $.02 anyways.....

 

[Overtrained]

The louder the better!!!.......unless your cutting wood at 11:00pm at night, then break out the electric saw