McCulloch Chain Saws

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Promac610 I don't mind you using the pix of my wife as your avatar but where did you get it? :laugh:
 
See if you can help identify these saws for this potential MAC owner (posted in general forum). Thanks, Ron

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Nice group of saws there.




Lee
 
Nice work Kyle!

You oughta load up the saws, grab the ferry across the pond, and come to the NE WI GTG next weekend.
 
Nice work Kyle!

You oughta load up the saws, grab the ferry across the pond, and come to the NE WI GTG next weekend.

I just looked up the price for that, and holy crap... 317 bucks for a round trip... and that's cheaper than driving around the lake's north or south end...

I'll see what I can do. Don't get your hopes up though.
 
Good work there Kyle, the 250 should love that kind of exercise.

Just before I left (Argentina this week) I started tearing down a 640 with the big bow bar, hopefully I will have enough time when I get back next week to get it cleaned up and back together in time for Baraboo.

Mark
 
Bow equipped 640s make me home sick. :msp_sad: Ron

There, there... you'll have one someday.



I never guessed I'd end up with a 6 cube saw so soon. Regarding the high speed running issue, a little bird came along and told me I should replace/properly repair the crappy fuel line that I put together. So that is what I'll do first.

Might end up making an adapter block that goes from the small fuel line to the big fuel line. Yeah, it'd be made of aluminum. Might end up using the "poor man's lathe" AKA mini drill press. Shouldn't take too long to make a little fitting that slides right onto the fuel lines and connects them, without leaking.

Why the heck did they decide on such a reduction? I noticed the fuel line for in the tank to the bulkhead is the same as the one from the bulkhead to the carb fitting... tiny to ridiculously large... why not just make it all 1/4" and be done with it?
 
Kyle, I don't want any old 640 - I want my Dad's complete with the bow and the possible one-off two piece chain guard McCulloch made him after he sliced his thumb in the oil cap gap. Ron
 
One step forward and one step back.

I put aside for now my plans to drill the cc for two rear oiler screw holes and I put in the flat spring upgrade - no vacuum leak now. But I accidentially broke my oiler button while working on the saw; now I have to order a new button. I've got to build me a gig to hold my saw in various positions. I know Mark has a nice one but I don't have the tools or the skills to duplicate it. I'm thinking a scrap bar and a multi-position vice.

I also managed to put the manual oiler piston in backwards and prior to the spring. A real pain breaking the vacuum to retrieve it.

During the process I found this little problem. I'll know next time to stretch the boot when I examine it.

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I don't know how old it is - but it sure could explain why my saw ran good in my test stub but would race when I lifted it out of the cut. Maybe it contribute to my original toasting as in addition to the saw being tuned too lean, I was resizing firewood so the weight of the engine would have been pulling down on the boot almost constantly. I replaced it from inventory. Ron
 
Aaron is right on Monkey Wards...

They did the same basic thing as Sears to contract saws out out to a manufacturer.

For example, I have an old Remington Mighty Mite that is labelled as a Monkey Wards saw.

There are Monkey Wards Mac 610's out there too. I'm sure there are a few more MW saws that we simply haven't seen yet.
 
There, there... you'll have one someday.



I never guessed I'd end up with a 6 cube saw so soon. Regarding the high speed running issue, a little bird came along and told me I should replace/properly repair the crappy fuel line that I put together. So that is what I'll do first.

Might end up making an adapter block that goes from the small fuel line to the big fuel line. Yeah, it'd be made of aluminum. Might end up using the "poor man's lathe" AKA mini drill press. Shouldn't take too long to make a little fitting that slides right onto the fuel lines and connects them, without leaking.

Why the heck did they decide on such a reduction? I noticed the fuel line for in the tank to the bulkhead is the same as the one from the bulkhead to the carb fitting... tiny to ridiculously large... why not just make it all 1/4" and be done with it?



You might want to check McMaster Carr... They have pretty nice barbed tube fittings to adapt from one size to another... I recently went through this with a generator I was working on. 1/4" out of the tank and 1/8" in to the carb... They were all stainless, but I suspect you wouldn't notice the extra weight...

-Tim
 
You might want to check McMaster Carr... They have pretty nice barbed tube fittings to adapt from one size to another... I recently went through this with a generator I was working on. 1/4" out of the tank and 1/8" in to the carb... They were all stainless, but I suspect you wouldn't notice the extra weight...

-Tim

Thanks for the tip... I'll order a few from there. It'll be easier than making one.
 
610 oiler issue

Actually a timber bear :)
for bar oil i mixed up some stuff to start with pretty light weight to not put a strain on anything.
adjusted auto oiler all the way out.
no oil.
pushing on manual oiler resulted in very little oil..
so i have it runing and i'm contemplating when i turn it over on the recoil side to see the oil hole better.
now i'm NOT a fan of running a saw with the cover off or staring down at an open clutch spinning a few thousand rpm's ..holding up a piece of plywood for protection i got a good look into where the oil comes out.
then when i turned it on the starter side copiouse amounts of oil started flowing !!
also the manual oiler would squirt oil right up into the air !!
tried looking at an old IPL..huh,,..
see a filter,must be attached to a hose and that looks like it goes to a fitting in the bottom of crank..
i see nothing to make the oil come out over the bar ?
It seems like it may be a pickup problem ?? laying it recoil side may meen the pickup is on that side hi up and maybe a hose is broken ??
the oil level in the tank is about 3/4 or more full it looks like.
maybe fill tank to over flowing will help diagnose ?
i just dont know..
so who does ??
tnx..
 

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