McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks everyone.

I will try to get a few things measured up tonight; if the bore and piston are reasonable and the bore for the bearing is not over 0.002" or so off I will probably just go the loctite route.

Otherwise Lee and JJ, I will be in touch.

Mark
I used the red Loctite in a VW engine that had previously spun a main bearing and never had any more trouble with it. The bearing, held in with pins had the pin hole wallowed out and I just put loctite around the bearing. It was holding up when I junked the car, years later.
 
I did spend a little time checking out the "890" last night, turns out the bore is 2.190 or thereabouts, making this an 840 that has been bored out 0.030" over size. The bore and piston are in very good shape yet with less than 0.005 out of round and less than 0.001 taper, clearance between the piston and bore is 0.003" at the absolute maximum.

Sadly, the bearing bore on the PTO side is about 0.005" oversize. I don't have the 1-2" snap gauge (missing from my set) and you can't manipulate a dial caliper inside the crank case so I had to resort to an inside caliper and then read it with a micrometer. I wasn't satisfied that I had an accurate measurement so I clamped the crankcase down on my table saw top and set up the dial indicater. Indeed, there is about 0.005" movement of the crankshaft parallel to the stroke.

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Now the question is, will one of the miracle loctite products take care of thie 0.005" gap between the bearing and the bore in the crank case?

I expect this saw will get very little use other than making it run as I already have an 840 that works very well.

Mark
 
I did spend a little time checking out the "890" last night, turns out the bore is 2.190 or thereabouts, making this an 840 that has been bored out 0.030" over size. The bore and piston are in very good shape yet with less than 0.005 out of round and less than 0.001 taper, clearance between the piston and bore is 0.003" at the absolute maximum.

Sadly, the bearing bore on the PTO side is about 0.005" oversize. I don't have the 1-2" snap gauge (missing from my set) and you can't manipulate a dial caliper inside the crank case so I had to resort to an inside caliper and then read it with a micrometer. I wasn't satisfied that I had an accurate measurement so I clamped the crankcase down on my table saw top and set up the dial indicater. Indeed, there is about 0.005" movement of the crankshaft parallel to the stroke.

attachment.php


Now the question is, will one of the miracle loctite products take care of thie 0.005" gap between the bearing and the bore in the crank case?

I expect this saw will get very little use other than making it run as I already have an 840 that works very well.

Mark

Is there any way the case could be bored out and a bushing fitted in there? You'd probably want to Red Loctite the bushing in to keep it from spinning in the case. That would probably be a fairly inexpensive machine shop procedure.
 
Mac 10-10 bar plates

None of my Mac 10-10's have bar plates on them, but the IPL's list them. Does anyone know the difference between the Mac 10-10 bar plates, part # 64325 and the Pro Mac 10-10 plates, part # 64330? I have several sets of the latter, guess I can just try them on the saw and see if they will work.
 
Is there any way the case could be bored out and a bushing fitted in there? You'd probably want to Red Loctite the bushing in to keep it from spinning in the case. That would probably be a fairly inexpensive machine shop procedure.

I don't think it would work on that side because the boss for the bearing seat is relatively thin to start with.

Now the question is, will one of the miracle loctite products take care of thie 0.005" gap between the bearing and the bore in the crank case?
Mark

That's a pretty big gap. I doubt there's anything out there that would hold it for long.
 
None of my Mac 10-10's have bar plates on them, but the IPL's list them. Does anyone know the difference between the Mac 10-10 bar plates, part # 64325 and the Pro Mac 10-10 plates, part # 64330? I have several sets of the latter, guess I can just try them on the saw and see if they will work.

Jim, #64325 is a single bar plate. #64330 is a set of 2 of the 64325 plates. The 64325 plate is used on both the inside & outside locations on the bar.


:cheers:

Vince
 
Got it!!!!

This might just look like a regular old 10 series saw to most of you, but I only bought it for the wrap handle. This is only the second wrap handle, made for the non-av 10 series, that I have ever seen, Heimann owns the other one.
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Here is the other one...McCulloch 5-10 found by Drew Crane

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I have an offer from a member to make a sort of duplicate, the pattern does not look exactly the same as the original since it is made from regular bends and straight sections.

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If anyone is interested I can get these made for around $35 each.

Mark
 
I knew you had one Mark, but i didn't know that yours was on a 5-10 also. If my 5-10 has good compression then I will probably leave the wrap handle on it, but if its worn out then I will be putting the wrap on one of my 7-10 saws.
 
This might just look like a regular old 10 series saw to most of you, but I only bought it for the wrap handle. This is only the second wrap handle, made for the non-av 10 series, that I have ever seen, Heimann owns the other one.

Real nice saw. What a rare classic! Congratulations on the find!! I am sure it found a great home with you!

:clap:
 

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