McCulloch Chain Saws

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Urbicide said:
I just looked through a couple of editions of Intertec Chain Saw Service Manuals (#'s 4, 6, & 7) I have that listed the CP-125 & SP-125.

"Model SP125 and later model CP125 are equipped with a throttle latch to advance the throttle to a fast idle position for starting. Throttle opening is adjusted by turning adjusting screw on bottom of trigger.

Start engine and be sure it is at operating temperature. Load engine (make a cut) and turn main adjustment needle counter-clockwise (richen) in increments of 1/16-turn until engine begins to run rough, then turn the main adjustment needle clockwise (lean) until engine roughness just disappears. BE SURE to make the main adjustment while saw is under load which will provide a slightly rich mixture. If main fuel adjustment is made while saw is not under load, mixture will tend to be lean and damage to engine from overheating and insufficient lubrication could result."
Click to expand...

Great information! Would you have the information for a PM 610? Wanted to tweak mine but wasn't sure of the procedure. I have done modern saws but it really does not seem to be correct for the older MACS

:help:

Rich
 
ric5141 said:
Great information! Would you have the information for a PM 610? Wanted to tweak mine but wasn't sure of the procedure. I have done modern saws but it really does not seem to be correct for the older MACS

:help:

Rich
Click to expand...

This is taken from the 6th edition of the Chain Saw Service Manual.

"Initial adjustment of idle and high speed mixture screws is one turn open. Adjust high speed mixture screw to optimum performance under cutting load."

Vince
 
Dangit, you guys didn't tell me that a 10-10's starter/flywheel cover would fit the SP81!! On a hunch since they looked similar, I tried a spare one that I had and it works fantastically. The only difference is that it lacked the top rear mounting hole, the one that's just under the carb box. Still, the other 5 lined up perfectly. The old thing looks much better now.

Anyone know if the bottom plate from a 10-10 would also fit? I don't have a spare right now but might be able to find one pretty easily.
 
Fineshed my PM 430vc and today I ran it. This little saw has a lot of grunt and is very well built. Bolt on cyl, brake, inboard clutch, great av and plenty of life left. I put an NOS rear handle/trigger assembly, new lines gaskets and rebuilt the carb. Has a 12"-3/8"lp b/c.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws559.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws559.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws560.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws560.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
next to my 4300/pm 700
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws561.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws561.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Okay mac guys. Ive got a co-worker that has a mac 200. It runs and oils fine. The paint is so-so, but there. He has the tools that came with plus the manual. He also has a McCulloch style granberg bar mounted filing guide.

How much is it really worth??? He bought the saw back in 1964-65 and it is been sitting in his garage for the last 30yrs or so.
 
hoss said:
I love those intertec manuals. I have #8 and it has been an invaluable resource.
Click to expand...

I'm keeping my eyes open for a copy of editions 1, 2, & 5, since I have 3 (1970), 4 (1974), 6 (1980), 7 (1985), & 8 (1989). I'm really curious as to the models they contain within. They certainly are not the equivalent of a factory service manual, but they do provide an excellent source of basic information & exploded views of a large number of saws. A word used throughout the manuals is the term "renew". It really means to "replace" the defective part with a new one, & it is used quite frequently. It would be nice to be able to locate NOS parts for the old-timers that did not cost a small fortune, but then I guess that's just part of the fun. ;)


The latest Intertec edition is #10. It"s the one you see advertised everywhere. If someone is interested in it, the price varies tremendously, so shop around before buying a copy. Don't think there are many, if any, vintage saws covered. :popcorn:

Vince
 
gallegosmike said:
Okay mac guys. Ive got a co-worker that has a mac 200. It runs and oils fine. The paint is so-so, but there. He has the tools that came with plus the manual. He also has a McCulloch style granberg bar mounted filing guide.

How much is it really worth??? He bought the saw back in 1964-65 and it is been sitting in his garage for the last 30yrs or so.
Click to expand...

The tools and manual are worth as much as the saw, maybe $50.00 to 75.00. It would be good to have even if just to use as a nieghbor annoying decible generator.
 
I haven't been able to get many saws cleaned up and added to the running list lately due to a lot of work related travel. I did manage to finally get by and pick up a 5-10E that Warjohn collected for me earlier this year. Once I got it home a little fresh fuel in the tank and a shot of prime down the throat and it was running. For now it's just up on a shelf waiting it's turn...

While I was off in Australia Kuhndog was kind enough to send me an early Mini Mac 35 complete with a case. This saw arrived in pretty good shape, just a bit of cleaning and prime it three times and it's off an running. I really like that fact that this one is a "pre-brake" version so now I have an early with no brake and a later one with brake (from Ike Hoff - thank again Tom!).

Son Jeff came by this afternoon to help with a few tasks, and was willing to give the saw and the case a little more spit & polish. This little thing really looks nice and runs well though I need to get a new clutch as this one is a but jumpy even with the idle speed down around 2,600 RPM.

I need to run it a bit to see if the automatic oiler will pick up some as it doesn't provide as much oil as I would like right now. In the mean time I can supplement with the manual oiler until it comes around or I get time to take it down and make other repairs.

Now, where am I going to keep this one?

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In case you are wondering, that is an 890 project on the bench....

Mark
 
Last edited:
All of the "Mini Mac" saws I have around are points type ignition systems, I do have one Power Mac 310 on the shelf that is electronic. I am mostly interested in the older saws ('58-'80 or so) so I am primarily a points ignition kind of guy.

The 890 was an e-Bay saw that will need a fair bit of work, the bearing bore on the PTO side is slightly oversize so I need to either come up with a good fix, or find a spare block to replace it. The piston had been recently replaced but running with the bad bearing and bore left it rather scuffed up. I am sure it will clean up well enough for my purposes but it will never be quite like a new saw.

Mark
 
Same project, new problem uncovered. By the way, thanks again for the crank shaft Lee!

Now as I get into it futher I find the bearing on the PTO side is not quite as tight as it needs to be.

Since I won't be running this saw a whole lot I was thinking of some loctite or something like that to make sure the bearing does not move around. I seem to recall that there is some kind of "gap filler" formula that seems to be just made for a situation like this.

Comments anyone?

Mark
 
heimannm said:
Same project, new problem uncovered. By the way, thanks again for the crank shaft Lee!

Now as I get into it futher I find the bearing on the PTO side is not quite as tight as it needs to be.

Since I won't be running this saw a whole lot I was thinking of some loctite or something like that to make sure the bearing does not move around. I seem to recall that there is some kind of "gap filler" formula that seems to be just made for a situation like this.

Comments anyone?

Mark
Click to expand...

Loctite 640 Sleeve retainer. link:

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xch...tredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=0000000HZO

:cheers:
 
heimannm said:
Same project, new problem uncovered. By the way, thanks again for the crank shaft Lee!

Now as I get into it futher I find the bearing on the PTO side is not quite as tight as it needs to be.

Since I won't be running this saw a whole lot I was thinking of some loctite or something like that to make sure the bearing does not move around. I seem to recall that there is some kind of "gap filler" formula that seems to be just made for a situation like this.

Comments anyone?

Mark
Click to expand...

How loose is it.
If it's not to loose you can use the loctite already mentioned.
Loctite has a stud and bearing mount stuff as well.
Not sure of the number.
Worst case, I have the block the crank came from.


Lee
 
leeha said:
How loose is it.
If it's not to loose you can use the loctite already mentioned.
Loctite has a stud and bearing mount stuff as well.
Not sure of the number.
Worst case, I have the block the crank came from.


Lee
Click to expand...
I don't know the number either but it is red Loctite which is stud n bearing mount. I don't think it's meant to be removed once you put it on though.
 
Hey Mark,

I'm not sure what you want or are willing to sink in, or if you have friends in the following line of business, but how about a machine shop? they could easily lathe out the hole bigger, and sleeve it to the required size...

just a thought.

J
heimannm said:
Same project, new problem uncovered. By the way, thanks again for the crank shaft Lee!

Now as I get into it futher I find the bearing on the PTO side is not quite as tight as it needs to be.

Since I won't be running this saw a whole lot I was thinking of some loctite or something like that to make sure the bearing does not move around. I seem to recall that there is some kind of "gap filler" formula that seems to be just made for a situation like this.

Comments anyone?

Mark
Click to expand...
 

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