McCulloch Chain Saws

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I just got my first "real" Mac in today and it's a SP125C which appears to have little usage. The starter has been broke off at one time and they have either rewelded or JB welded the 3 legs back on. My question is what will fit this saw or is it a 125 product only?
 
barneyrb said:
I just got my first "real" Mac in today and it's a SP125C which appears to have little usage. The starter has been broke off at one time and they have either rewelded or JB welded the 3 legs back on. My question is what will fit this saw or is it a 125 product only?
Click to expand...

You can use the starter housing from most LH start large frame macs, but you'll need to swap over the ratchet (McCulloch's name for the steel thing that extends from the starter towards the flywheel and engages the pawls) from your busted starter onto the 'new' starter (unless it came from an SP125 of course). You must do this as the flywheel housing on the SP125's space the starter farther away from the flywheel than on previous LH start large frame Macs. The flywheel housing on SP125's is much beefier than the housings on the earlier saws. The ratchet unscrews from the pulley shaft.
 
Overtrained said:
Im debating whether or not to make a "McCulloch mini and small saw's" sticky when I have a 1000 credits to blow.
Click to expand...

How about "Mini-Macs and Other Little PITA Saws"? Poulan XXV's and Micros would be exempt of course. Homelite XL2/Super2/200/240 and 150, Frontier/Quadra variants, Olympic 240, and others of that ilk would finally have a home. An alternate name for the thread could be "Doorstops"...:D
 
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Eccentric said:
You can use the starter housing from most LH start large frame macs, but you'll need to swap over the ratchet (McCulloch's name for the steel thing that extends from the starter towards the flywheel and engages the pawls) from your busted starter onto the 'new' starter (unless it came from an SP125 of course). You must do this as the flywheel housing on the SP125's space the starter farther away from the flywheel than on previous LH start large frame Macs. The flywheel housing on SP125's is much beefier than the housings on the earlier saws. The ratchet unscrews from the pulley shaft.
Click to expand...

Luckily I have a parts 440 at home and that should do it.......
 
barneyrb said:
Luckily I have a parts 440 at home and that should do it.......
Click to expand...

Your 440 has a LH starter? They were built with RH starter/clutch cover assemblies. Either it's a "440L" (and those aren't known to exist)........or somebody swapped a LH starter assembly and flywheel, and a 'starter-less' clutch cover onto it. Interesting. Got any pics of your 440?:popcorn:
 
Here are the aforementioned cylinders side by side, SP81E on the left, mystery cylinder on the right.

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It finally caught my attention today that the mystery cylinder does not have the impulse barb fitting.

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From the "C" above, I always presumed this was an 82 cc cylinder. Upon closer examination I discovered it is in fact a 2" bore rather than 2.063" like the 82's so this is in fact for a 70 cc saw. I am guessing PM700 or PM4300 but not sure where to go from here to make a determination. Notice the impulse fitting in the intake flange, that happened to escape my attention before as well...

I also never noticed the difference in the exhaust port size, never having made a side by side comparison before. Now if someone could help me understand which piston I need to go with this cylinder I would appreciate it. I have several PM700's in the attic that could use a real freshening up so all is not lost.

Mark
 
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I did make some progress on getting the 81E back together. Bore is very straight and true; could be an "A" with just a touch of wear or a "B" with very little wear. I can't find any markings on the cylinder so I am leaning towards the "B" as that was the default. Piston is a bit scuffed but I didn't want to put a new piston in this one without being positive on the right one so I cleaned everything up as best I could and used it anyway. I checked it before tearing it down and it was making 150 PSI so I figure it will still run all right.

I did set the standard late model electronic ignition coil on this one and it certainly fits properly. I will put it together with the real ignition set up and try to check the timing between the two using an electronic timing light while spinning the saw over with a drill.

Here's how things look so far.

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Mark
 
mystery jug

Ok, I'm a newbie! I thought I might as well confess up front. I've always been fascinated by chainsaws though.

I just picked up what appears to be a Pro Mac 700 off Craigslist for $40. The guy said it starts but won't run after it gets warmed up. I suspected coil, but it actually turned out to be much worse. The piston is badly scored and must be replaced. The cylinder looks like it can be saved with the careful use of some muriatic acid and a flex hone, but I won't really know until I get it cleaned up. I'm thinking maybe I could use one of those mystery cylinders if you come across another one.

While taking the saw apart, I discovered the reed valve in the muffler is pretty well toasted. This is my first go round with older saws, so I've never seen a reed valve in a muffler. Is it for noise damping only or does it serve some other purpose as well?

Any help with parts sourcing would be especially helpful. I've been able to locate pretty much everything I need except a cylinder.

<a href="http://s633.beta.photobucket.com/user/js5bgfsh/media/December2012021.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu55/js5bgfsh/December2012021.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


<a href="http://s633.beta.photobucket.com/user/js5bgfsh/media/December2012022.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu55/js5bgfsh/December2012022.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


<a href="http://s633.beta.photobucket.com/user/js5bgfsh/media/December2012034.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu55/js5bgfsh/December2012034.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


<a href="http://s633.beta.photobucket.com/user/js5bgfsh/media/December2012035.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu55/js5bgfsh/December2012035.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>



Anything I could learn about the saw would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff
 
heimannm said:
This would have been a good week to buy a PM1000 of e-bay, two good looking units at 25-30% off the typical going rate.

At the same time a 740 with 36" roller nose bar went for over $250, I'd be tempted to sell one at that rate.

Mark
Click to expand...

I was talking to an AS member last night that really thought that saw was a 797.
 
Warped5 said:
I was talking to an AS member last night that really thought that saw was a 797.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately for me, I'm saw funds poor right now because somebody scored bigtime. There isn't a shred of doubt in my mind that was a 797 (66251 on the block) and with a NOS General roller to boot.

Oh well, good for whomever got it.
 
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