McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I see the model 800-850 saws go for quite a bit of money though they are only 82cc or so. Why are they so expensive? And are these saws all metal or plastic combined? I see they weigh less than the 250, 440, 740 saws and similar models. Any other features that make them so expensive or sought after? I been watching them on ebay and they all seem to bring good money for the nice ones. You can get a Super 250 for a fraction of what one of these PM850 sell for around the same size motors so what is the major attraction to these? I have never seen a Pro Mac saw or Power Mac so I have no clue to why they are so popular. Nick

The pro mac 800, 850, etc are metal saws. They are much more modern than the other 80 cc saws you mention. They are lighter weight and share some parts interchange with readily available 10 series saws, they take the same clutch, bars, and some other parts. They also have automatic oilers which many of the big old saws don't. (although the super 250 does have auto oiler.) In addition, as Mark H would say, they have lots of "snot". Even though they were made in the 70's and 80's their performance is on a par with todays saws of the same size. I would not discourage you from getting the older saws, but if you are going to use it frequently the pro macs are a better choice. By the way, you want a pro mac or super pro. If its called power mac its likely a cheap homeowner saw.
Jim
 
Since I am fairly new to collecting these older McCulloch chainsaws how are these Pro Mac and Power Mac saws? I see the model 800-850 saws go for quite a bit of money though they are only 82cc or so. Why are they so expensive? And are these saws all metal or plastic combined? I see they weigh less than the 250, 440, 740 saws and similar models. Any other features that make them so expensive or sought after? I been watching them on ebay and they all seem to bring good money for the nice ones. You can get a Super 250 for a fraction of what one of these PM850 sell for around the same size motors so what is the major attraction to these? I have never seen a Pro Mac saw or Power Mac so I have no clue to why they are so popular. I was thinking of maybe getting one of these but it has to be metal. Don't want a plastic saw I just don't like how they feel/handle as I cut. I'll take a heavy metal saw any day over a plastic one.

Nick
A 10 series McC will be close in weight to any modern plastic fantastic wonder, but durability and power of the yellow saws is unmatched in any plastic saw of any manufacturer I have seen, when comparing saws of similar engine displacement. A Promac 700 will outcut my Huslky 372, and it will outcut a stihl 044/440. The newer saws only have the advantage in smaller wood, but then only slightly. When you bury the bar in wood, the Macs outpolls every time. The same thing may be true of other vintage brands, but I am not experienced enough outside McCulloch to venture a statement on that. Aaron or someone else well versed in other vintage makes will have accurate insight there. The 82 cc 10 series saws are still at the top of the heap for their displacement. I don't think a 660 or 395 has the staying power to keep up with one.
What killed McCulloch IMO was EPA regs, advent of mechanized logging reducing demand for saws, CA CARB, spotted owl debacle and subsequent crash of timber industry in the western US, and lack of will of McCulloch family to carry on the tradition of Robert McCulloch, all combined. I would be one very pleased individual if a group of enthusiasts could revive some parts production using modern 3D "print" technology to keep these things going for a long time to come!
 
By the way, you want a pro mac or super pro. If its called power mac its likely a cheap homeowner saw.Jim

I have to agree with everything you stated...

However, the Power Mac 6 is/was a excellent climbing saw.

Rugged, all metal, light, powerful...used one in the trees for years.

-Andy


View attachment 278471
 
Nick, McCulloch's 82cc hot rod. It's the biggest 10-series they made. Most of them around here were pretty much used up in the the logging industry. I found two that came from home-owner/farmers that were used for firewood duty. That search went on for three years. For its size, those saws can have amazing power and the sound is classic McCulloch. Try one out if you can, from a craigslist seller maybe. Id be very wary of evilbay saws.
 
Ron, looks like you get to do the fun part, nice job. Now the work begin.

Minosi, I hope you plan on replacing bottom end bearings and seals, thats alot of debris in there. But, 180 psi is awesome, you have got a very good top end.

Mark, the SP-80 I just bought has the 2 shoe clutch, I figured it was a P.O. quick fix. It also has no paint on the block, probably a replacement long block? The A/V mounts are all nice and tight, so maybe this saw was rebuilt at the dealer, before it was retired.
 
Question for the 10 series gurus-how does the DE80 compare to the SP80/81 or PM800/805/850?

Never ran a DE80, but a local shop that used to sell McCulloch told me that when it came out, which was well before I was running saws, the travelling salesman would come by, and demonstrated the torque of it by upcutting into a test log, and when the bar was buried, he'd jam it forcefully upwards, and would blow the chain off. He would do this a few times, and then challenge any other saw to do the same.
 
Thanks for all the posts about my question now it makes a lot more sense. I'll look around for a nice Pro Mac something and try it out. I need a smaller saw for the little stuff as I have saws to take care of most of the larger wood so maybe a Power Mac 6 for that. Some are just for the collecting aspect of it and some to run/use. I have got a few real nice saws off ebay for cheap. I've been buying and selling on there since 1998 and have rarely had any issues. It is a lot different today then it was several years ago but you can still get good deals. Craigs list has also been good to me.

Thanks again,

Nick
 
E - any 10 Series flywheel will work, just make sure you match a points flywheel to points ignition. Some of the later 82 cc 10 Series saws had 24 fins rather than 12 fins on the earlier models with the aim of improved cooling. I think you may discover that one broken fin does not in fact that much difference in the level of vibration.

Nick - there is really no comparison between the old 80 cc saws and the 10 Series 80 cc saws. The "modern" saws are lighter, quicker, very useable for day to day cutting. The old saws have more torque but are pretty slow when cutting side by side.

bplust - e-bay is always reliable for sourcing the anti-vibe mounts, expect to pay $15 to $20 each for the front and rear, boots are about the same and should likely be replaced if you are changing out the mounts.

The DE80 was the last in the line of the 82 cc 10 Series saws with a different approach. The carburetor was hard mounted to the cylinder with a flexible boot to seal it from the air box as opposed to the airbox mounted carburetor with flexible boot like the other SP model 10 Series saws.

Since we are on the topic again, I am still looking for a PM805, Super 850, DE80, and an SP80 with the "big" taper. I have a couple of spare PM800's and one SP81 as trading stock.

attachment.php


PM800 x 3, PM850, SP81 x 2, PM55. Since this photo I've added an SP80 and SP81E. The SP81E has the original 2 piece ignition set up, the SP80 has the more conventional 10 Series crankshaft.

Mark
 
Last edited:
E - any 10 Series flywheel will work, just make sure you match a points flywheel to points ignition. Some of the later 82 cc 10 Series saws had 24 fins rather than 12 fins on the earlier models with the aim of improved cooling. I think you may discover that one broken fin does not in fact that much difference in the level of vibration.

Nick - there is really no comparison between the old 80 cc saws and the 10 Series 80 cc saws. The "modern" saws are lighter, quicker, very useable for day to day cutting. The old saws have more torque but are pretty slow when cutting side by side.

bplust - e-bay is always reliable for sourcing the anti-vibe mounts, expect to pay $15 to $20 each for the front and rear, boots are about the same and should likely be replaced if you are changing out the mounts.

The DE80 was the last in the line of the 82 cc 10 Series saws with a different approach. The carburetor was hard mounted to the cylinder with a flexible boot to seal it from the air box as opposed to the airbox mounted carburetor with flexible boot like the other SP model 10 Series saws.

Since we are on the topic again, I am still looking for a PM805, Super 850, DE80, and an SP80 with the "big" taper. I have a couple of spare PM800's and one SP81 as trading stock.

attachment.php


PM800 x 3, PM850, SP81 x 2, PM55. Since this photo I've added an SP80 and SP81E. The SP81E has the original 2 piece ignition set up, the SP80 has the more conventional 10 Series crankshaft.

Mark

Thanks for reply.
Replaced Flywheel -engine runs more "round" now.
Regards
E.
 
Ready to go...right?

Houston, we have a problem....


278542d1360540986-sp80-issues-jpg

View attachment 278542


So much for the goodie bin oil tank!


Andy's "I'm not endorsing that you do this, but if it's the only parts you have" fix:


278543d1360541057-sp80-bear-keep-jpg

View attachment 278543


I'm sure this is not ideal, however I'm confident it will work.

The retention area (with half a ring) is greater than the "stud" style retainer, RTV red will take up the retainer ring gap.

Feel free to flame away:msp_biggrin:

-Andy
 
Minosi, I hope you plan on replacing bottom end bearings and seals, thats alot of debris in there.

Good advice whenever you're touching the older stuff:rock:

I replaced the seals and small side bearing, Large side was amazingly good, as if new.

-Andy
 
Last edited:
Noticed there was some slack. I put the Teflon tape on. It was tighter but still moved. Gonna try the zip tie. Thanks for the tip

so far i won't need to use the zip ties. the teflon tape seems to be working well; after a whopping 5 minutes, lol. finally got the starter sorted out, sorta. kept binding up. sprayed some kroil into the spring and that seems to work; for the time being. still got to tune the carb in better but its resisting, may need to rebuild it. we'll see. thanks for all the help guys.
 
Back
Top