McCulloch Chain Saws

[Warped5]

so far i won't need to use the zip ties. the teflon tape seems to be working well; after a whopping 5 minutes, lol. finally got the starter sorted out, sorta. kept binding up. sprayed some kroil into the spring and that seems to work; for the time being. still got to tune the carb in better but its resisting, may need to rebuild it. we'll see. thanks for all the help guys.

IMHO, just tear the recoil down and clean it really well. It's a pretty easy one. When you get it back together, sprinkle some shaved graphite on the spring or use some spray 'dry lube.'

 

[jerrycmorrow]

IMHO, just tear the recoil down and clean it really well. It's a pretty easy one. When you get it back together, sprinkle some shaved graphite on the spring or use some spray 'dry lube.'

i took it all the way down to removing the pulley just so's i could see if it was mudded up. it wasn't. i know my fix is temporary but didn't want to take the spring out since i was doing it during my lunch break. didn't have any graphite or wd with me, just the kroil so that's what i used. your way is much better, just didn't want to go there yet.
i'm guessing the carb may need a kit cause it will start choking off when i lean the lo screw but never slows down no matter how fat i turn the lo screw. also, its tricky gettin the idle down. yeah, i know, it sounds like a leak but when i test cut it would idle back down. whatcha think?

 

[minosi]

The SP80 project is finally coming to a close, here is the final build update.


After my Power Mac 6 project I decided to do the "chip mod" on the SP as well...

View attachment 278702


I failed to take a photo of the final wiring but I ended up splicing the "+" side lead with the on/off lead...I figured I'd try going to the "points" post but I didn't get spark.


So if you are doing this yourself, wire it as such: splice the "+" with the on/off, -/ground to the chip (or as I did to a coil bolt).


This is a NAPA chip, BTW.


Here she is all done...runs f***ing awesome

View attachment 278703

View attachment 278704

View attachment 278705


My 6 year old (Daddy's Girl) was equally impressed as she helped me tighten many of the fasteners...future inheriter of "Yellow Fever"


I'll give it to her one day:msp_biggrin:

-Andy

 

[homelitejim]

darn, darn, darn, darn, and darn. The only yellow I am finding of late, I have had better luck with other brands but the yellow is alluding me. Latest pick up, free bie which I will give back to the scrap guy as a runner, thanking him for letting me look around, he will use it to cut up broken pallets instead of a well worn skil saw.

 

[mcc 86]

View attachment 278768Can anyone tell me what this extra filter is for on my mcculloch 795? It has the mcculloch primer flat back carb. This filter with hose on it fits on the side of the carb. I am guessing it is a breather. I have never seen a setup like this lol.

 

[Eccentric]

View attachment 278768Can anyone tell me what this extra filter is for on my mcculloch 795? It has the mcculloch primer flat back carb. This filter with hose on it fits on the side of the carb. I am guessing it is a breather. I have never seen a setup like this lol.

That's the "spitback collector" (McCulloch's term for it). Catches and holds some of the fuel spray that 'spits' back out of the carb. This fuel is then drawn out of the sponge and through the tube into the carb throat (and on into the engine). You can disconnect the tube and run the saw without the 'spitback collector' without problems (Mac even says something to that effect in one of their publications........I think it's the Chainsaw Carburetors publication). Later production 10-series Macs have a plate above the carb (part of the AF cover stud bracket) that catches the 'spitback'. Some saws from other manufacturers (think red) have a small filter 'cup' behind the carb throat that serves the same purpose. Some other large frame Macs just have a belled metal cup attached to the carb throat.

 

[fechtichmac]

sp 80

Picked up a second one within one week.
Before searched years without success for thouse.
Is in running cond.Sure carb has to be gone trough.
All complete exept the muffler cover.
HAS THE 10-series two shoe clutch!

E.View attachment 278794View attachment 278795View attachment 278796View attachment 278797

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Picked up a second one within one week.
Before searched years without success for thouse.
Is in running cond.Sure carb has to be gone trough.
All complete exept the muffler cover.
HAS THE 10-series two shoe clutch!

E.View attachment 278794View attachment 278795View attachment 278796View attachment 278797

nice saw. good price?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

IMHO, just tear the recoil down and clean it really well. It's a pretty easy one. When you get it back together, sprinkle some shaved graphite on the spring or use some spray 'dry lube.'

i took it all the way down to removing the pulley just so's i could see if it was mudded up. it wasn't. i know my fix is temporary but didn't want to take the spring out since i was doing it during my lunch break. didn't have any graphite or wd with me, just the kroil so that's what i used. your way is much better, just didn't want to go there yet.
i'm guessing the carb may need a kit cause it will start choking off when i lean the lo screw but never slows down no matter how fat i turn the lo screw. also, its tricky gettin the idle down. yeah, i know, it sounds like a leak but when i test cut it would idle back down. whatcha think?

well, i went to pull it over last night after it got colder and the recoil wouldn't retract. again. so i tore it down, cleaned everything with carb cleaner, dried it out, reinstalled spring, sprinkled graphite, reassembled unit and now it works like its sposed to. i knew you were right ted. i just thought my temp fix would last longer. ha. just shows to go ya that you should always just do it right the first time. i seem to relearn that lesson too often.

 

[fechtichmac]

View attachment 278798

nice saw. good price?

Was kind of barter-aruond €150
For the first one I paid € 52.-!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

View attachment 278798

Was kind of barter-aruond €150
For the first one I paid € 52.-!

okay! i'm gonna go provincial on ya.
what's that in murican money?
course i guess i could just do the conversion
edit - dam. $201.57

 

[heimannm]

$200 for a running SP80 seems like a very reasonable deal to me.

I left the points ignition on mine and it is one of those magical set ups that delivers a hot spark regardless of how quickly you spin it over. I frequently ask the unsuspecting individual to pull it over slowly to get the feel of it and am delighted at the shock and surprise on their faces when it fires and takes the rope from their hands...

Mark

 

[fechtichmac]

$200 for a running SP80 seems like a very reasonable deal to me.

I left the points ignition on mine and it is one of those magical set ups that delivers a hot spark regardless of how quickly you spin it over. I frequently ask the unsuspecting individual to pull it over slowly to get the feel of it and am delighted at the shock and surprise on their faces when it fires and takes the rope from their hands...

Mark

This one has points yet,The other came with a chip.The points saw will kick back if you not pull
rapidly.I have a 2-man saw with 300ccm that broke me fingers.After installing a chip it starts smooth like 30ccm.

 

[heimannm]

I noted the same thing when I was checking out the SP81E - I tried the original two piece electronic ignition which seemed to fire at very low RPM, and the later one piece version of electronic ignition coils like those used on 10 Series or 600 Series saws, the one piece unit would not fire at low RPM, I would guess it had to be spinning around 300 RPM before it would fire.

Mark

 

[fechtichmac]

I noted the same thing when I was checking out the SP81E - I tried the original two piece electronic ignition which seemed to fire at very low RPM, and the later one piece version of electronic ignition coils like those used on 10 Series or 600 Series saws, the one piece unit would not fire at low RPM, I would guess it had to be spinning around 300 RPM before it would fire.

Mark

I often noticed on points ign.-there comes the spark by slow turning the flywheel by hand.
The electronic chip as well other modern ignitionmoduls needs much more rpm.
This avoids kickback and is good for starterparts and bones!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

$200 for a running SP80 seems like a very reasonable deal to me...

i know you're right mark but...wait! what's that sound? oh, its just me squeaking when i walk.

 

[leecopland]

You are like me!

i know you're right mark but...wait! what's that sound? oh, its just me squeaking when i walk.

Maybe we are both dumpster divers!!

Regards,

Lee

 

[leecopland]

hey just here to learn

What is the significance of having the pull starter on the left or right of the 10-10 series Macs? Looking to add a 10-10 to my collection as per CAD,

Regards,

Lee opcorn:

 

[mcc 86]

That's the "spitback collector" (McCulloch's term for it). Catches and holds some of the fuel spray that 'spits' back out of the carb. This fuel is then drawn out of the sponge and through the tube into the carb throat (and on into the engine). You can disconnect the tube and run the saw without the 'spitback collector' without problems (Mac even says something to that effect in one of their publications........I think it's the Chainsaw Carburetors publication). Later production 10-series Macs have a plate above the carb (part of the AF cover stud bracket) that catches the 'spitback'. Some saws from other manufacturers (think red) have a small filter 'cup' behind the carb throat that serves the same purpose. Some other large frame Macs just have a belled metal cup attached to the carb throat.

Hey Aaron, good name btw and thanks for the great info. I think my 610 has one of those plates above the carb too. also the duck bill check valve in my gas cap melted as did the one in my 200, what replacement duck bill valve can i use for them? they use the same type of gas cap.

Aaron

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Maybe we are both dumpster divers!!

Regards,

Lee

got that right. almost half of my saws cost me less than $5 before fixing them. only 2 of them are plastic fantastics.
never saw a cheap deal i wasn't down for.