McCulloch Chain Saws

[boda65]

What is the significance of having the pull starter on the left or right of the 10-10 series Macs? Looking to add a 10-10 to my collection as per CAD,

Regards,

Lee opcorn:

Early 10 series had RHS, later moved to left side. Any 10-10 can be made RHS, all you need is the clutch with starter pawls, and the starter/clutch cover. Likewise if its already RHS, you just need the flywheel with pawls and the starter/flywheel cover. I have seen pics of 10 series that someone had put both starters on one saw just for fun. Fully functional.
Jim

 

[Eccentric]

Hey Aaron, good name btw and thanks for the great info. I think my 610 has one of those plates above the carb too. also the duck bill check valve in my gas cap melted as did the one in my 200, what replacement duck bill valve can i use for them? they use the same type of gas cap.

Aaron

Hiya Aaron.

I haven't looked at a 610 series gas cap in ages (other than to fuel the saw). Haven't owned one of those saws in 20 years....so I don't know what vent setup those saws have. Ran a tank of gas through one last November. Could be that the 610's used the same duckbills as the 10-series Macs........and can therefore use the Homelite duckbills with a little fiddling. I don't have a 610 cap to examine right now...

The 200 most likely takes the large 'duckbill' valve that McCulloch used to put in most of their large frame saw caps. It's like a Homelite 69451 duckbill, but about twice the size..............and has little rubber 'nibs' along the top of the flange. They come up on ebay every now and then. I had one Mac cap that somebody figured out how to put a 530026119 Poulan/Husqvarna duckbill valve in. They used a rubber tube as a 'reducer' to take up the space around the duckbill. Worked fine. Traded the saw away before taking apart the cap to more closely examine the guy's handywork................dammit. Forgot that this cap was on the saw I was trading until after it left....:bang:

Most 10-series gas caps can be retrofitted with the 69451 Homelite duckbill. The hole it fits in needs to be reamed out a tad (as the original Mac duckbill was a scosh smaller than the Homelite part). The Homelite duckbills are available new from Stens and Oregon. The Poulan duckbills are available from Poulan and Husqvarna. Same # is used in both of their systems.

 

[heimannm]

The OEM set up in the 600 Series saws is a bit different. I have retrofitted a few with the same Oregon duck bill valve that can be used on the 10 Series but you have to drill a hole through the top of the gas cap for it to vent. The original set up uses a different channel to one corner of the cap for a vent but that avenue is lost when you replace the OEM set up.

I never really looked for the OEM duck bill valve for the 600 Series saws as none of the IPL's that I have call it out with a part number. I have bought a couple of NOS gas caps for the 600 Series saws that came with the duck bill already turned to whale snot.

Mark

 

[mcc 86]

Hiya Aaron.

I haven't looked at a 610 series gas cap in ages (other than to fuel the saw). Haven't owned one of those saws in 20 years....so I don't know what vent setup those saws have. Ran a tank of gas through one last November. Could be that the 610's used the same duckbills as the 10-series Macs........and can therefore use the Homelite duckbills with a little fiddling. I don't have a 610 cap to examine right now...

The 200 most likely takes the large 'duckbill' valve that McCulloch used to put in most of their large frame saw caps. It's like a Homelite 69451 duckbill, but about twice the size..............and has little rubber 'nibs' along the top of the flange. They come up on ebay every now and then. I had one Mac cap that somebody figured out how to put a 530026119 Poulan/Husqvarna duckbill valve in. They used a rubber tube as a 'reducer' to take up the space around the duckbill. Worked fine. Traded the saw away before taking apart the cap to more closely examine the guy's handywork................dammit. Forgot that this cap was on the saw I was trading until after it left....:bang:

Most 10-series gas caps can be retrofitted with the 69451 Homelite duckbill. The hole it fits in needs to be reamed out a tad (as the original Mac duckbill was a scosh smaller than the Homelite part). The Homelite duckbills are available new from Stens and Oregon. The Poulan duckbills are available from Poulan and Husqvarna. Same # is used in both of their systems.

Sorry for the confusion you guys, I ment to say It is my 795 and my 200 gas cap that the valve turned to liquid rubber. I may try the poulan/ husky duck bill or I might wait for the mac duck bill valves. Would you guys happen to have the part number for the old mac duck bill valves? Thanks for all of the help.

Aaron

 

[67L36Driver]

10-10s fuel tank gasket.

Ran my 10-10s for a bit today only to dicover the tank cover weaping all around the edge. The saw has sat empty for over a year. Closer to two years.

Gasket dry out?

I'm going to let him sit a few days an fill him up again to check.

 

[Warped5]

Ran my 10-10s for a bit today only to dicover the tank cover weaping all around the edge. The saw has sat empty for over a year. Closer to two years.

Gasket dry out?

I'm going to let him sit a few days an fill him up again to check.

Hi Carl - Aaron is experiencing the same thing with his SP81.

Those tanks were glued at the factory and splitting them is quite the pain.

There were some posts not very long ago (2 - 3 weeks) where options were discussed.

 

[67L36Driver]

Ugh! I was hopeing it would just swell back up.

We have 3M weatherstrip glue on hand...........................................................

 

[heimannm]

10-10S has the cork gasket, let it set with fuel for a day or two and see what happens.

Duckbill valve for the big saws fuel cap is 53766.

Mark

 

[mcc 86]

10-10S has the cork gasket, let it set with fuel for a day or two and see what happens.

Duckbill valve for the big saws fuel cap is 53766.

Mark

Thanks mark.:msp_biggrin:

 

[jerrycmorrow]

10-10S has the cork gasket, let it set with fuel for a day or two and see what happens...

my pm60 was leaking around the fuel line and through the cork gasket. wrapped the line with teflon tape. guessing the gasket swelled up and the tape sealed cause no more leak thus far

 

[joeymt33]

my pm60 was leaking around the fuel line and through the cork gasket. wrapped the line with teflon tape. guessing the gasket swelled up and the tape sealed cause no more leak thus far

PIG SOOOEEEYY!!! I'm also from NW AR.

Your mcculloch leaks are happening because your avatar is orange. Now just change your pic to a yellow one and you'll have no more problems.

Joey

 

[joeymt33]

BTW, that is one saw I wish I didn't sell. My PM60. It was a strong pulling saw for its size and weight. Congrats on having a good saw. Mine was was still fresh. If your on the fence regarding getting new rings to up the compression, I recommend doing it. It will out perform a PM610 every day that ends in "Y". And it will be lighter than those 600 series saws.

 

[Eccentric]

PIG SOOOEEEYY!!! I'm also from NW AR.

Your mcculloch leaks are happening because your avatar is orange. Now just change your pic to a yellow one and you'll have no more problems.

Joey

Unfortunately Joey, my SP-81, PM700, and 7-10A all started leaking in the last month.............despite my yellow avatar saw....:bang:

 

[jerrycmorrow]

BTW, that is one saw I wish I didn't sell. My PM60. It was a strong pulling saw for its size and weight. Congrats on having a good saw. Mine was was still fresh. If your on the fence regarding getting new rings to up the compression, I recommend doing it. It will out perform a PM610 every day that ends in "Y". And it will be lighter than those 600 series saws.

i just got it running again. am totally amazed at how small it is vs. the displacement. so where can rings be acquired? what is best size b&c to run on it? sorry for the questions but this is my first mac.
soiee back atcha. where in nwa you from? guessing them war eagle/tide rollers give you a hard time though not lately.

 

[heimannm]

What have you been up to Aaron? (Num 32:23)...

Jerry - I like an 18-20" bar on a saw that size, you can get a NOS McCulloch bar on e-bay for $16 + shipping and make it look really nice. There are a lot of other bar that will fit, just check to see what you have laying around as you may already have one that will work.

Mark

 

[joeymt33]

i just got it running again. am totally amazed at how small it is vs. the displacement. so where can rings be acquired? what is best size b&c to run on it? sorry for the questions but this is my first mac.
soiee back atcha. where in nwa you from? guessing them war eagle/tide rollers give you a hard time though not lately.

I grew up in Russellville and my folks are in Fayetteville now.

I'll get you a part number for those rings in an hour or so. You may not need rings. Check compression, 160psi is about what new is for that saw. If its below 125, you may consider it.

 

[joeymt33]

Unfortunately Joey, my SP-81, PM700, and 7-10A all started leaking in the last month.............despite my yellow avatar saw....:bang:

Maybe I should change my avatar to yellow. It won't help your leaks though. Sorry.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

What have you been up to Aaron? (Num 32:23)...

Jerry - I like an 18-20" bar on a saw that size, you can get a NOS McCulloch bar on e-bay for $16 + shipping and make it look really nice. There are a lot of other bar that will fit, just check to see what you have laying around as you may already have one that will work.

Mark

mark,
thanks. i was thinking 20", maybe one size larger. it has a hard nose 16" mac bar on it now but the chain is well worn. figure if i'm gonna upsize, now would be the appropriate time

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...my folks are in Fayetteville now...

gimme a shout when you visit your folks

 

[cpr]

Tore down my sawbones 797 this morning. This is going to be the first McCulloch I've ever done a full restoration on. I did some Huskys a few years back and they have held up very well, so I'm looking forward to the results, if not all the prep. I've never liked redoing vintage saws because I hate to erase their story. I feel better about this one because it wasn't complete and it is FILTHY! Musta done some WORK :msp_w00t:.

We had some discussion about the use of proper rod cap bolts a couple of weeks ago around here. I got a surprise when I popped off the stuffer. This saw put a lot of timber on the ground like this :msp_rolleyes:.

The flywheel that was on it has a broken fin, so it's junk, but I did want to note the markings on it and its lack of a timing mark as I can't recall seeing this before.

I have a few bits to get as it didn't have a clutch or a carb and I can't get the muffler off. I may have to just cut the thing off. It's soaking right now...

This won't be a wild one, just a custom. I think I'm going to go the Tillotson route and I might enlarge the reeds, that's it. Compression was good when I got it. When it's cleaner, I'll check the clearances and may just re-ring it (stock bore). It's not getting a factory paint job, either .

I'l give it its own thread when I'm done.