McCulloch Chain Saws

[Rotax Steve]

On another topic, I found a running Super Pro 81e on Marketplace for $150. They're almost a 2 hour drive away but if it's a good deal it should be worth it. He's very vague in his description. I don't have any knowledge of that model saw? I appreciate any suggestions or questions that I should ask the guy. Thanks.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1BVWnHL6a9/

 

[heimannm]

Look at the opening at the bottom of the air box, and both sides of your spacer. There are definitely two different patterns that match the two different gaskets.

I think you will find a paper/fiber gasket is more practical in this application, they do not tend to compress over time and are easier to remove and reinstall. The cork/rubber gaskets are better suited to surfaces with more surface area and where the parts meeting may not be completely flat.

Jeff Fox and Brian Genrich are already making the carburetor/spacer gaskets, as well as many different vendors on eBay if you don't want to go to the trouble of making them yourself.

Mark

 

[mopar4u]

Bought an aftermarket carb kit for my power mac 6. I realized the diaphragm doesnt have the metal disc on it like oem or quite frankly like any walbro ive worked on. I checked the listing i bought from and it shows no disc. Will this work without the disc?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

On another topic, I found a running Super Pro 81e on Marketplace for $150. They're almost a 2 hour drive away but if it's a good deal it should be worth it. He's very vague in his description. I don't have any knowledge of that model saw? I appreciate any suggestions or questions that I should ask the guy. Thanks.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1BVWnHL6a9/

Go n pick it up. Before it's gone

 

[Rotax Steve]

Look at the opening at the bottom of the air box, and both sides of your spacer. There are definitely two different patterns that match the two different gaskets.

I think you will find a paper/fiber gasket is more practical in this application, they do not tend to compress over time and are easier to remove and reinstall. The cork/rubber gaskets are better suited to surfaces with more surface area and where the parts meeting may not be completely flat.

Jeff Fox and Brian Genrich are already making the carburetor/spacer gaskets, as well as many different vendors on eBay if you don't want to go to the trouble of making them yourself.

Mark

What about thickness? When the IPL called one a carburetor spacer I got the impression it would be thicker. Thanks

 

[JSMississippi]

The IPL refers to both gaskets as gaskets, one as “Gasket - Carburetor” (#34) which goes between the carb and the black spacer, and the other as “Gasket - Spacer” (#37) which goes between the black spacer and mounting flange on the fuel tank/air box. Both gaskets are the same thickness to my knowledge. The spacer is still sitting on the air box in your 4th photo.

 

[heimannm]

Rotax - An SP81E is the precursor to the PM850, may or may not have the two piece electronic ignition. If the cylinder is O.K. $150 is a real bargain.

mopar - every MDC kit that I have and have seen have the metal plate attached. The Zama kit for the M1-M7 carburetors is very, very close to the MDC and does not have the metal place, they use a plastic disc with a small "tit" that engages a hole on the metering lever. Try laying those gaskets & diaphragms on your carburetor body and you may find they do not match the alignment pips on the carburetor.

Zama M1-M7



Walbro MDC



Comparing the Zama in my photo to the one in your photo, I'd say you have a Zama kit and not a Walbro.

Mark

 

[Rotax Steve]

The IPL refers to both gaskets as gaskets, one as “Gasket - Carburetor” (#34) which goes between the carb and the black spacer, and the other as “Gasket - Spacer” (#37) which goes between the black spacer and mounting flange on the fuel tank/air box. Both gaskets are the same thickness to my knowledge. The spacer is still sitting on the air box in your 4th photo.

Ok I get it, the gasket is not a spacer, it goes against the spacer. Thank you.

 

[JSMississippi]

Ok I get it, the gasket is not a spacer, it goes against the spacer. Thank you.

No problem. I am still learning a lot of this stuff myself, as evidenced by my struggles posted above!

 

[Rallyeguy]

Working on a 10-10A and have a question or two.
I believe I'm getting a fuel leak where the carburetor seats in the air box. I've tried to research the spacer/gasket combination and haven't had much luck.
I rebuilt the carb and put it back in. It started and ran good, but after running it and letting it sit for a while I found the air box full of fuel. I'm pretty sure the fuel line is good and believe the leak is coming from the gasket/spacer area. Looking at the IPL for it (600002 F 14-. ), I have some confusion - what's the difference between a carburetor gasket (86189) and a carburetor spacer (84078)? Ones that were on it are very similar to each other but the IPL illustration looks very different (I know those aren't always perfect).
I think my leak is because the indentations on the old ones didn't line up perfectly when I remounted the rebuilt carb and it wasn't seated well.
I want to replace them with seals that my wife can make from 1/16" cork/rubber gasket material I have. Will that work? My wife makes gaskets for me using a Cricut machine and it works great.
Here's some photos of what I'm working with.
Thanks for any input and suggestions or if I need to look at anything else.

Per Mark, I have what you need if you don't want to cut them yourself.

https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-Series-Chainsaws-Gaskets-&-Parts-c168127023

I carry Cork as a standard fuel tank gasket, but some prefer the Viton versions. I have some of both, if you order and want the more modern Viton instead of OEM cork style, I'm happy to provide either option. Pricing would be the same.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ok I get it, the gasket is not a spacer, it goes against the spacer. Thank you.

You picked up that 81 yet?

 

[Syncop8r]

On another topic, I found a running Super Pro 81e on Marketplace for $150. They're almost a 2 hour drive away but if it's a good deal it should be worth it. He's very vague in his description. I don't have any knowledge of that model saw? I appreciate any suggestions or questions that I should ask the guy. Thanks.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1BVWnHL6a9/

The most important question to ask him is "Can I please have it?".

 

[JSMississippi]

We have a successful vacuum and pressure test! That’s the good news.


Held vacuum fine but a very slow leak under pressure on the PTO side. Looks like Mark called it, this was the side with all the cloth wrapped around the crank. FW side seems ok. I am also feeling some play in the crank, very very little but enough to notice if I apply pressure back and forth (for clarity, from spark plug to oil tank direction). Am I looking at a crank bearing now also?

 

[Steve-Maine]

Thanks for bringing this up...

Thanks Bruce for getting this started.

In my signature line I list only my runners. I do use a few of them from time to time, like the SP125C's for some big stuff, I really like the sound of the 1-85 so I use it when I get a chance as well. Most of the rest are just to fire up and listen to while I make a few cuts sometime during the year. I hope to make the 740 into a work saw as well but in all honesty, with the Stihl's and the Jonsered's running well I don't really want to use the big McCullochs all that much.

My goal is to get one of every 1 man saw from 1948 -1970 or so. At the present time I have the complete 1-40 series, with a recent e-Bay purchase I now have the complete 1-50 series, and a good start on the 1-60 series, a long way to go with the 1-70 and 1-80 series saws. Somehow I missed on a 550 this week but have another chance coming up there. I need a 250 Super to fill out the bottom end of the 3 number saw (200, 250, 300, etc.) and a lot of empty spaces from 550 on up.

As I showed in an earlier thread, I have built some additional shelves to display my saws and have at this point about 40' of empty space available at present.

If anyone out there has something they want to move along please do let me know. I might even be willing to trade one of the extra's that I have for something that will fill in a blank.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

We have a successful vacuum and pressure test! That’s the good news.
View attachment 1236366

Held vacuum fine but a very slow leak under pressure on the PTO side. Looks like Mark called it, this was the side with all the cloth wrapped around the crank. FW side seems ok. I am also feeling some play in the crank, very very little but enough to notice if I apply pressure back and forth (for clarity, from spark plug to oil tank direction). Am I looking at a crank bearing now also?

How slow?

Just run it. It be sweet. Keep listening. All the time listening to that tune. As long as it bangs up against that pop pop pop your good. Then sneak it out. The 57s are funny though they 4 stroke at a pretty high RPM. Long after the 54 sounds lean n nasty. You'll definitely know if it's leaking as the tune just wanders about

 

[vinnywv]

That seal can be changed in place....carefully and patiently. But it can be done.

 

[Max the Mac Man]

We have a successful vacuum and pressure test! That’s the good news.
View attachment 1236366

Held vacuum fine but a very slow leak under pressure on the PTO side. Looks like Mark called it, this was the side with all the cloth wrapped around the crank. FW side seems ok. I am also feeling some play in the crank, very very little but enough to notice if I apply pressure back and forth (for clarity, from spark plug to oil tank direction). Am I looking at a crank bearing now also?

Some may disagree but at this point I would break her in half to replace the seal, check the bearing and inspect everything while I had it apart. like @vinnywv said the PTO seal can be replaced without disassembly but they are more difficult than the flywheel side seal.

 

[heimannm]

The danger with trying to replace the PTO side seal without separating the crankcase halves is damaging the bore where the seal sets. Trying to pry the old seal out and getting a new one back in can be done but I find it is quicker, easier, and safer to just separate the crankcase. I have used Dirko HT, Threebond 1184, Indian Head Gasket Shellac, and some blue automotive type silicone for reassembling the crankcase and all have advantages and disadvantages. My preference is Dirko since it is pretty easy to clean up when you make a mistake.

Needle bearings will always have a little bit of play, but it it is enough for you to notice you should at least consider replacing the bearing as well. BH-108 bearings are readily available, as are the 6119 seals.

Mark

 

[Rotax Steve]

You picked up that 81 yet?

The guy agreed to hold it as pending sale and I'm going Sunday afternoon. I don't know if it's politically correct but I'm planning to bring my pressure tester and I have an endoscope to look at the cylinder walls and exhaust ports. I haven't bought much on Marketplace but $150 is still a chunk of change, plus I'll be driving close to 300 miles. Any advice on anything else I should look closely at would be helpful. Thanks

 

[Rotax Steve]

The guy agreed to hold it as pending sale and I'm going Sunday afternoon. I don't know if it's politically correct but I'm planning to bring my pressure tester and I have an endoscope to look at the cylinder walls and exhaust ports. I haven't bought much on Marketplace but $150 is still a chunk of change, plus I'll be driving close to 300 miles. Any advice on anything else I should look closely at would be helpful. Thanks

Also I keep meaning to ask, what is the "E" part of Super Pro 81E? Is it electronic ignition?