Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
Just letting everyone know I added a 797 Complete gasket kit to my store.
https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-797-Gasket-Kit-p723524302
https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-797-Gasket-Kit-p723524302
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
I don't think we're talking about the same thing. The wire I'm looking at is not electrical, it like a thin utility wire wrapped around the intake. I tried to clean the area up more for a better picture.
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JS - If you keep the tank filled with fuel in good condition you don't need to worry too much about oxidation in the tank. I use Red Cote to seal a tank when the gaskets just won't hold, or in the case of the SP models where the tanks are assembled with epoxy and you cannot separate them.
If the saw is going to set for extended periods without fuel, consider using some fogging oil, or even a bit of mix oil and roll the tank around to give everything a good coating to prevent exposure to the atmosphere.
Vinny - McCulloch tried a lot of things along the way, some were good ideas and they stayed with them, some were not as good and they made improvements. I have not had the spring ground fail completely but I have had saws that gave you a little notice when you turned the switch off.
Mark
If the saw is going to set for extended periods without fuel, consider using some fogging oil, or even a bit of mix oil and roll the tank around to give everything a good coating to prevent exposure to the atmosphere.
Vinny - McCulloch tried a lot of things along the way, some were good ideas and they stayed with them, some were not as good and they made improvements. I have not had the spring ground fail completely but I have had saws that gave you a little notice when you turned the switch off.
Mark
Lol...ive had that once. They really let ya know.
Thats the same wire Mark referred to. It is a spring but acts as a ground also.
JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
Thanks Mark. That sounds easy enough to do. I think it was an SP81 you were working on where I saw about the Red-Kote - was just missing the full contextual knowledge there about the tank halves.
I've recently made some plates for checking crankcase leaks. This is for the 10 series saws. You drill for your fitting you want to use. I would like to make some for the bigger saws but need cylinder for exhaust and intake fitment. Is anyone willing to let me borrow one. It can be roached on inside as I only need outside.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
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Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
If McCulloch made it, chances are Mark has it!
Yeah and they were very bad at doing their job Vinny. Thus why they disappeared in later models.
And its HARD on the old girls when it happens too!
I don't think I posted this here, yet. PM700 arrived recently, low hour / late release (note the grey crankcase/oil tank) saw in need of some attention. PTO side seal was leaking, among other things.
As I mentioned a page or two back, 8 screws holding the crankcase together. In these days McCulloch was using some sort of clean anerobic sealer and they were pretty generous with the sealant during assembly.
The 12-24x1-34 screws on this one have a very large flange, and the aluminum sealing washers.
I replaced the 8-32 flange head screws with socket head cap screws. Shorter ones are 3/4", longer one is 1-3/8"
I put a generous dab of Dirko HT on the screw threads in the hope that a little will transfer to the surface around the hole when I insert them and aid in the seal.
The fuel tank was leaking badly, and had been previously sealed with Threebond 1184 (MotoSeal) or some similar product. Rather than trying to take it apart and clean all of that up, I went with Red Cote in the tank so it will be a few days before I get to test the saw.
Two other issues I found were the throttle boot was destroyed, and the oil pick up line had a hole in it. Replacing those are both tasks I hate, but both went very well on this saw.
Getting the new boot in place is bad enough, but then you have to work the throttle rod back through it as well.
I am guessing that at some point the spring clip that hold the rear of the automatic oil pump down came loose was rattling around in the oil tank. I cannot come up with a better explanation for how the oil line would get cut up like that.
I posted this before, but the best way I've found to change or install the screen in the end of the oiler hose is to roll the edges of the bell back.
Then you can lay the new screen on there and just roll them back in place.
Like Andy Reid says "It's fun, try it..."
Mark
As I mentioned a page or two back, 8 screws holding the crankcase together. In these days McCulloch was using some sort of clean anerobic sealer and they were pretty generous with the sealant during assembly.
The 12-24x1-34 screws on this one have a very large flange, and the aluminum sealing washers.
I replaced the 8-32 flange head screws with socket head cap screws. Shorter ones are 3/4", longer one is 1-3/8"
I put a generous dab of Dirko HT on the screw threads in the hope that a little will transfer to the surface around the hole when I insert them and aid in the seal.
The fuel tank was leaking badly, and had been previously sealed with Threebond 1184 (MotoSeal) or some similar product. Rather than trying to take it apart and clean all of that up, I went with Red Cote in the tank so it will be a few days before I get to test the saw.
Two other issues I found were the throttle boot was destroyed, and the oil pick up line had a hole in it. Replacing those are both tasks I hate, but both went very well on this saw.
Getting the new boot in place is bad enough, but then you have to work the throttle rod back through it as well.
I am guessing that at some point the spring clip that hold the rear of the automatic oil pump down came loose was rattling around in the oil tank. I cannot come up with a better explanation for how the oil line would get cut up like that.
I posted this before, but the best way I've found to change or install the screen in the end of the oiler hose is to roll the edges of the bell back.
Then you can lay the new screen on there and just roll them back in place.
Like Andy Reid says "It's fun, try it..."
Mark
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Will a 10-10 flywheel work on my SP81E? Surprised I hadn't noticed yet but one of the fins are snapped off. Will one missing fin be a problem?
One fin is not a. Ig deal bt it will be out of balance. I personally would have to replace it. Yes a 10-10 flywheel will fit.
You will not notice one or two missing fins from either a cooling or balance/vibration perspective.
That said, the 12 and 24 fin flywheels from the 10 Series LH starts saw are completely interchangeable.
Mark
That said, the 12 and 24 fin flywheels from the 10 Series LH starts saw are completely interchangeable.
Mark
After realizing I built up the wrong bp1, I now have built a model matching the January ipl. She breathed fire last night after some help from Parker Jameson. I was using a Sig-01 ignition chip and Parker suggested a Nova2 due to the polarity of the Flywheel magnets being not very consistent and the ability to just flip the wires on the nova chip.
I wanted to show off ,as we all do when we're proud of our accomplishments, and show some of the literature I have acquired since learning about these saws. That spec sheet is the absolute coolest things imo.
Also shown in the last picture is the bp1 I have rebuilt as stated matching the January of 62 ipl, beside it is the bp1 from Mark Garris that appears to match the October of 62 ipl, subtle differences in the 2 if you look closely. More pictures side by side will be shown once the October model is rebuilt in the coming weeks.
Yall have a good weekend its time for me to make wood chips
I wanted to show off ,as we all do when we're proud of our accomplishments, and show some of the literature I have acquired since learning about these saws. That spec sheet is the absolute coolest things imo.
Also shown in the last picture is the bp1 I have rebuilt as stated matching the January of 62 ipl, beside it is the bp1 from Mark Garris that appears to match the October of 62 ipl, subtle differences in the 2 if you look closely. More pictures side by side will be shown once the October model is rebuilt in the coming weeks.
Yall have a good weekend its time for me to make wood chips
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Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Thank you Vinnywv and Mark. I have a nice 10-10A flywheel and I'll swap it out today
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Any recommendations on air filter cleaning? You can barely see any light going through it. My biggest concern is keeping the flocking from being damaged and leaving me with just the wire screen.
