I'm curious how much lighter those later plastic Mini Macs are than the magnesium ones? I also don't know which model made the switch the solid state ignition.
McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's
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The full clutch/muffler cover on the later saws as well as the wrap around brake add quite a bit of weight. I don't think there is any significant difference in the amount plastic on the early vs. later models.
Mark
Mark
For some reason I thought later ones had plastic housings instead of magnesium, I guess I need to take a closer look at that 160 I was given.
You may be thinking about the small Homelites which changed over to plastic later in their production.
Which mini Mac had the most cc I hear they range from 25 to 39 which one had the 39 cc. I have a mini Mac 120 and I'm looking for a replacement motor wondering if the bigger Cc motor would fit in the Mac 120?
I thought the largest Mini Mac engine was the "35"cc in the Mini Mac 35, and whatever later variations of the Mini Mac used that engine. I used quotes because I think it's actually closer to 33cc.
The earlier models (MM30 and before) were 29 cc (1.375x1.200) and later models (MM35 and after) were 33 cc (1.438x1.200). The MM35 actually used the same piston as the Power Mac 6 but the 110 and following had a different style piston that used snap rings or circlips to hold the wrist pin instead of the press fit in the rod. The 110 would have had the bigger displacement engine.
Mark
Mark
I also still have no idea what the physical difference was between a Mini Mac 25 and a Mini Mac 30. I have examples of both saws and other than the sticker, I can't see a difference.
5
20% more Mini Mac!
This came in the mail from a leather working supplier haha, nice US made 7/32 hollow punch that I will hopefully be able to use to make some check valves!
I also have one Walbro check valve kit and a 10 pack of Stens 7/16 Welch plugs coming. I will use the Walbro kit as a reference for how the valve should look, and I have one Walbro welch plug as a guide to file down the Stens plugs to the right thickness. The Walbro check valve kits are almost $10 a piece now! That's as much as I paid for the punch. I have plenty of unused carb diaphragms to sacrifice to make check valves. Thanks again to Manic84 for all the ideas!
I also have one Walbro check valve kit and a 10 pack of Stens 7/16 Welch plugs coming. I will use the Walbro kit as a reference for how the valve should look, and I have one Walbro welch plug as a guide to file down the Stens plugs to the right thickness. The Walbro check valve kits are almost $10 a piece now! That's as much as I paid for the punch. I have plenty of unused carb diaphragms to sacrifice to make check valves. Thanks again to Manic84 for all the ideas!
Hello everybody,
Super happy to be here, I am addicted to playing with power saws
I have a bad Coil on a Mini Mac 120. It has points behind the fly wheel.
1) Should I change it to electronic ignition?
If so ,
2) what saws have electronic ignition that would work?
3) would I need the flywheel or just the coil?
Thanks in advance
Super happy to be here, I am addicted to playing with power saws
I have a bad Coil on a Mini Mac 120. It has points behind the fly wheel.
1) Should I change it to electronic ignition?
If so ,
2) what saws have electronic ignition that would work?
3) would I need the flywheel or just the coil?
Thanks in advance
Attachments
The points may just need to be cleaned and regapped. I've fixed many that way. I've also had a Mini Mac points wire ground out on the motor causing no spark. Lastly maybe check that the coil screws are tight and that the coil to flywheel air gap is correct.
From your pic it looks like you are missing your idle screw from the top of your carb.
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I've been through fixing these ignitions, make sure and test your coil with a meter before assuming its bad. I thought I had a bad coil but it turned out to be an issue with a wire being grounded.
Thank you yes I cleaned and regapped then tested coil with a meter fairly confident it's the coil. It's open from primary and secondary to lamination.
Yes I took it off to get it out of the case!!
Which mini Mac's have the same coil? Can I use one for an eager beaver?
You can try to remove the spark plug wire from the coil by "unscrewing" it. Chances are it will twist off in the socket but you can carefully pick, all of the old wire out and find the terminal sticking up which looks like a small diameter sheet metal screw. If both primary and secondary are open the coil is probably no good. All points type Mini Mac saws used the same coil as did the Power Mac 6 saws so there are many possible donors.
Mark
Mark
I think I've heard the later Mini Mac type saws, like the Eager Beaver 2.0, had electronic ignition. But I can't verify that. I have 15-20 of the Mini Mac type saws and haven't seen an electronic coil yet. I have no idea if the points coil can be swapped for an electronic one. But there is lots of used points coils out there as that type of saw was made for about 25 years under many different model names. And their coils appear to be fairly reliable: yours is the first bad one I've heard of.
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I know that a mini Mac 25, 30, 35, and an SP40 use the same coil, probably many others. I thought an Eager Beaver is electronic ignition (different).
I've found one bad one so far, and cosmetically it looks perfect. I replaced it with one that is battered and ugly but works, haha.
