well stihl recommendations 25:1 with most......
Mix ratio -- observing the blue smoke
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fishdrivel
ArboristSite Operative
Unless you are using the saw professionally, you should follow manufacturers recommendation.
When I was an arborist, I ran my saws at 32-1 because the saws lasted better and usually did not smoke more ON SYNTHETIC.
Retired now, I run my saws at 50:1.
Blendzall is it's own brand. Klotz makes a full caster oil called Benol.
Castor oils are horrible chainsaws, gums them up and makes a mess.
Klotz , manufacturers numerous castor based oils . I used R-50 in snowmobile race engines , also their newer Benol in snowmobile race engines . Their last product Techniplate I used in my recreational Polaris SKS Liberty 700 engine . However as Andyshine77 advises in even high temperature racing applications carbon deposits were the norm . A buddy used Benol in his Hotsaw effectively , but he tears that thing down every fall & carbon & residue is evident . The common ratio was 40:1 with the castor oils , where as 44:1 was routine ratio with good conventional synthetic FC or FD rated 2T oils . I have recently gone to Amsoil Interceptor in all my 2T applications wether snowmobile or dirt bike . Hand held run Saber @ 44:1.in commercial saws & 50:1 in recreational saws . Dominator will be a test trial this fall , it failed within my recreational sled use due to power valve deposits & overall residue in my RMK 850 Patriot engine . Likely not hot enough to burn off the oil on the trails .
junglejohnny28
ArboristSite Member
It’s in a green and red yellow writing degummed fortified racing castor .its what I’ve used for 25 years with at least 40 cord a year minimal no issues at all.ripsaw co uses klotz techno plate I believe in there stuff . Go to ripsaw web sight . Again my opinion and I’ve had saws 25 years old still run great . I’ve found that the ethanol in gas is a killer though .thats why I stay with klotz .any of there specific oils you choose I’m sure will make u smile
Well I'm glad it's given you good service, that'swhat matters.
However, in my experience and many others who have been in saws ran on castor oil, I simply can not recommend it especially Klotz. I have personally spent time freeing up stuck rings and cleaning large amounts of build-up caused by castor or castor-synthetic blends.
I am very curious to see what the internal of your saws look like. Is their any chance you can pop a muffler off and take a picture of the exhaust port and what you can of the piston? Blendzall is the only castor I haven't tried, maybe Blendzall has a better formulas than Klotz.
To me castor or castor blend oils have no place in the chainsaw world. They offer no benefit and quite a few downsides.
it also hates cold weather. I don’t know what temp it has to be but I had problems a pretty cold day. Well below freezing.
fouled plugs which was really odd. Quit using it after that because an oil that only works above a certain temperature doesn’t really make sense. I’ve had a couple of saws apart that were run on that stuff for they looked pretty good Probably ran 10 or so gallons of fuel mixed up between 3-4 saws.
I guess the stuff will separate it did something to me that one specific day. It warmed up and never had any more problems.
I will say I didn’t see any benefits from running it. I’d run it again if someone gave me a bottle but I sure wouldn’t recommend it as what to run.
just figured I’d add to the thread with some first hand
I run 32:1 I figure I’m safe at that number. Even a crappy oil should suffice at that number. That said I have a gallon of red armor to be opened in the future. I might run a little leaner ratio because I believe that’s very very good oil.
Running castor these days is like running non detergent straight 30w in a modern car engine. It won't immediately blow up, but there sure is better available now.
With a autotune/mtronic strato saw you can stick a ring in its groove pretty damn fast with castor.
I'd say it's even worse than 30W non detergent oil.
I can see the advantage or service protection on some Ultra high performance hot saw applications that are routinely serviced ( tore down ) since they are often on the ragged edge of reliability due to peak porting criteria . However most Commercial or Professional grade saws are adequately protected by any quality synthetic ester based oil , so yes Castor based oils in most 2T oil applications are few & far between . I cannot recognize any long or short term gain or benefit of castor based oil usage in today's recreational 2 stroke market !
A lot of it has to do with the amount of ash generated. A lot of the newer two stroke oils are ashless or low ash forulations unlike the old lawnboy mix or boat motor mix. I wouldn’t recommend deviating much from what the mfg reccomends on the heavy side unless you want to ruin your saw from carbon buildup scoring the cylinder. Some oils also like a certain ratio and don’t mix worth a crap higher than their design ratio….stihl hp ultra for example.
Ash,low ash, etc doesn't refer to combustion by products at all. It refers to bench test that measures the amount of detergents in a oil.
Ash is the non-combustible residue of a lubrication oil or fuel. Detergent additives contain metallic derivatives, such as calcium, barium and magnesium sulfonates that are common sources of ash. Ash deposits can impair engine efficiency and power. But, detergents are an important component of engine oil that help control varnish deposits, piston ring deposits, and rust (yes, rust) by keeping insoluble combustion particles from adhering to metal surfaces. in some cases, detergents neutralize acids formed from combustion of the fuel mixture.
That's not really correct. Ash is the residue left over from reacting sulfuric acid with a sample of oil in the ASTM D874 bench test. It has nothing to due with combustion as there are all kinds of organics that won't combust in a two cycle engine. The old lawnboy and marine oils were ashless oils btw.
Yep , that is correct on all counts !
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
My one saw failure was caused by a bit of carbon in a ring groove that locked the ring down at end of day two on a new saw, but that layer was so thin that it looked like a MAGIC MARKER on a shiny new piston, using 40:1 conventional name brand oil; I then switched to 50:1 synthetic name brand-x and no problem in 14+ years since w/ same saw. As REDLINE OIL website says (similar to) at what temperature does the oil change from a LUBE to a GUMMY adhesive? I want no smoke, I Fear carbon in a tight engine.
I run 32:1 and I get no smoke.
I've double dosed, so 16:1, and got no smoke. Modern synthetics, modern meaning the last 20 years, are fantastic.
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