mixing ratios for 2 stroke chainsaws

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You think chainsaws and fuel mix newbies are bad? Try beekeeping and coming with 40 odd years of experience versus some first season beehaver with a thousand hours of youtube videos watched!
Then you will learn about banging your head on brick walls! :laugh:
There was a beekeeper on here a little while back, Aleooper, or something there abouts, recently passed away. Loved reading his posts. RIP Al! ♥
 
Bought the 4 jug deal on Red Armor seen on the site here. I have been using it since the summer when I ran out of the Stihl orange I had previously used forever. The 4 jugs at that price is a steal.

I have run all of my 2 cycle equipment at 50:1 for many years in business and haven’t had any issues with worn out engines. Saws, trimmers, edgers and blowers all get the same mix.

I have a FS55R that I wouldn’t begin to guess how many hours are on it. It’s 15 years old.

Tuning is key I believe.

New dude but have lurked a long time. I’ve been helped many instances by you folks and have enjoyed countless discussions from the shadows.

Glad to be among you 👍🏻
 
Running more oil will displace a small amount of fuel. 3 ingredients are pushed into your engine by atmospheric pressure, air, fuel and oil. If you put more oil in the mix you will displace air causing a leaner condition in the combustion chamber. So many variables (Jet size, oil type barometric pressure temperature of the saw, octane of the fuel all play into the factoring of the optimal fuel oil ratio). From my experience it is best to use qualty oil mixed at the ratio determined by the factory engineers. FWIW
I was with you until you mentioned factory engineers !
 
Yay for you and I can rebuild the top end on most pro saws in about 20 min as long as the piston clips cooperate. You wouldn’t have to work on so much equipment if the company yu support so much would design things better stop producing in China and find a better oil company to supply them.
Sorry C , just laughing at the cir clip remark , I got a visual brother ! :laughing:
 
Im a former dirt bike guy who had 2 strokes.
If you run 32-1 in them the bottom end bearings last forever, if you run 50 or 60-1 your bearings go after 200 or so hours. It takes a long time for this to show up. Engine builders would do tear down and inspections to see how much oil was left in the crank case, with 50-1 the crank was pretty dry, with 32-1 it was oily.
I run 32-1 in my china saws to keep the bearings lubed up, the piston doesnt care what ratio you run.
This might all be well and good if your not running heavy doses of castor oil. That builds up on the piston in an overheated condition. It will lockup the engine and save it from metal to metal contact.
Flash point and ignition points matter.

I'm done here
Carry on.
 
I believe Kevin mentioned that way back in post #101 of this thread- keep up with the play! :laugh:

Look at post 99 of this thread. If you think that 20% or 30% of oil that was going out the exhaust with the raw fuel pre strato was doing anything
Of course I do... but it also leads to less oil moving through the motor. You do understand that now, right?

I actually never thought about it. I figured that whatever oil was mixed with the wasted gas was wasted right along with it. You think not and may very well be right.
 
I remember it being 25:1.
18:1 was the cut off on mx within performance . It dropped 2% @ 32:1 & 6% @ 40:1 . They also mention 20:1 was routinely recommended in the higher rpm 125 class bikes & that 60:1 could be utilized within the 500 class due to lower rpm & better oil migration & puddling within the crankcase as residual evidence !
 
I don't doubt you. There were complaints with larger displacement Husqvarnas going back at least a decade that I am pretty sure were single intake. And, guys were saying that 32 to 1 helped.

I still have some questions. Of that percentage of oil wasted out the exhaust, how much could have been stacked on bearings anyway? I don't know. How much oil can be attached to the surface of a bearing ? I don't know. At some point it is like pouring water on the hood of your car./

I was told that the reason why older saws had a heavier mix in addition to the oil not being as good was that the tolerances were sloppier. I don't know.

My thinking is simply that the engineers who blend the oil and design the saws do.

But, it would be foolish to think nothing slips through the cracks as well.

I have one tree service customer that has three of the non Mtronic 362's that have that dual intake carb. He works them hard. Only problem he has had is his men manage to get that stupid piece of linkage out of the slot somehow. You couldn't do it trying. And, I took some 1708 fiberglass and epoxy and repaired a broken rear handle, Probably 5 years ago and still holding fine. I have no idea what oil he runs, but he just gets regular ethanol at the gas station every day. Hell, he's still using an 044 that has who knows how many hours on it. Think I replaced the carb, fuel line, and tank vent once.

Anyhow, I work on a lot of MS201T's for some reason. Big saws are rare. I rebuilt a MS462C that hung a skirt a few weeks ago. But, mostly home owner saws. And, blowers, weedeaters, trimmers, and pole saws forever.

If there is a logger in the bunch I don't know them.
The myth of newer engines having tighter tolerances where did it even come from people just make **** up lol
 

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