mixing ratios for 2 stroke chainsaws

[JRM]

The US OEM's have been using galvanized and coated steels for decades.

I've heard this before and don't doubt you. All I can say is, there was obviously different methods used at the time. Or perhaps better surface prep from one manufacturer to the next. I've read of Porsche experimenting with hot dipping in the 1970's but wasn't common practice until sometime later.

 

[camel2019]

Steel can be galvanized easy enough to withstand decades of corrosion. It's just not cost efficient. (Most) people would rather spend $20k for a "luxury" package, so that's what the masses get instead of a vehicle that will actually last. Planned obsolescence.

Volkswagen actually tried to get it right more so than anyone here in N.A. did. Double sided zinc plated panels. Copper Nickel brake lines. I've seen many 20 year old VW/Audis around here with original brake lines looking much better than other manufacturers half their age.
BUT they get failing marks on so many of the mechanicals and is understandable why people that don't live in the land of cancer overlook them.

It's all a trade off.

For a better perception of my environment, Fluid Film performed a 5 year study at my counties ODOT garage. We're a perfect storm of heavy Lake Effect snow (100"+ per year avg), high year round humidity, and winter temps that are conducive to accelerated corrosion.

I'd gladly give up most all of the amenities in modern vehicles for something that could just hold up for 25 years with minimal structural maintenance. But that's not what most people want .

As it is, I easily spend 10-12 hours and $100 per vehicle annually on rust prevention.....all to eventually lose anyhow. That might not sound like alot....multiply by 4 (vehicles) and one maybe starts to appreciate the effort. Most won't put this effort into one let alone 4. It's a real investment both physically and financially in long term ownership here. There's no alternatives unless one wishes to have a car payment for life.

OK! Today's crying session complete!

Fox body mustangs were actually galvanized and still rusted out. Road salt mixed into slush and brine puddles don’t help.

 

[JRM]

Again, it's all in the process. Galvanized (structural) steel can look good with minimal corrosion for decades if done properly. I see it all the time living on the Great Lakes.
If welds aren't properly treated that will be the first place to rust. If the back sides of panels or the insides of rockers weren't thoroughly coated they'll rot from the inside out. From my experiences dealing with American cars made in the 80's and 90's if they were galvanized it was either in limited capacity or their practices were poor.

 

[bwalker]

Again, it's all in the process. Galvanized (structural) steel can look good with minimal corrosion for decades if done properly. I see it all the time living on the Great Lakes.
If welds aren't properly treated that will be the first place to rust. If the back sides of panels or the insides of rockers weren't thoroughly coated they'll rot from the inside out. From my experiences dealing with American cars made in the 80's and 90's if they were galvanized it was either in limited capacity or their practices were poor.

Galvanizing doesn't stand up to salt exposure very well.
And where I use to live sometimes had 8 months of salt use. Not to mention the salt that come south of the road when it rains in the spring.
US -41 in Marquette County, MI is one of the most heavily salted roads in the country and during the winter it looks like Bonneville when the sun pops out and drys the road. No coating will help with that amount of exposure.

 

[bwalker]

I once serviced an old Homelite XL-1 for a friend who bought it used cheap at an estate sale. The saw would literally not run fast enough to spin up the chain, not even high idle. I found out why when I pulled apart the muffler, it was choked up with so much carbon it only had a few pinholes left to pass the exhaust gas. It was a muffler like this.

View attachment 1034072

Almost every one of those vents were plugged solid. To this day I have never seen this amount of carbon build up in a muffler, I can only speculate as to how it got in that condition as it was impossible for the saw to cut wood. My best guess is that someone let it idle through a complete or even several tanks of gas with a rich mixture, wrong oil, bad gas or a combination of them.
I have several of these saws, and have never had any significant carbon buildup in any of their mufflers. I run Castrol 2t for the most part, I don't think it's anything special as oils go, but it has never plugged up a screen or baffle.
I suppose proper tuning is the key with any oil/mix ratio, personally it bugs me when a saw doesn't sound right, and the mix adjustment screwdriver is always close by during any cutting secession.

I have seen exhaust ports so plugged that the exhaust path was no bigger than the diameter of a #2 pencil. The old bright stock base oils and certainly automotive oils will do this readily under the right circumstances. It doesn't happen fast, but builds up over time.

 

[Hermio]

You're assuming that your suppositions and assumptions are as valid a form of evidence as the actual lived experience of the guys who run these saws day in and day out, and the experience of those who work on those saws which are run day in and day out.

This is not correct.

No, I am not. I am assuming that thew engineers who design equipment for a living, and the oil company engineers, know more about the subject than the end users do.

 

[Hermio]

Boy, you sure danced around that... I think your full of it. But I will give you another chance. What engineering discipline is your degree in?
And this isn't English class, bud. I refuse to proof read a post on a internet forum.
And to be clear.. we aren't talking about a hypothetical point where there is too much oil. What we are talking aboutbis the fact that a bit more oil is beneficial for most saws.
As for your test. Its about as valid as Project farms garbage. You need alot more than 2-5 data points to achieve any sort of statistical validity. You should be aware of this given your allegedly an engineer.
You also absolutely made several blanket statements..

All you have is ad-hominem attacks. It sounds to me as though you are jealous of engineers. Your later posts reinforce that. And while I agree that more data points would be better, I stated that the suggested tests would be a MINIMUM. What part of that don't you understand? I have no need to tell you which discipline my degree is in, as it is irrelevant. All engineers know how to conduct experiments and analyze data. You used the term "allegedly" about my engineering degree as though you doubt I have one. I would bet you serious money that I could prove it except I would get kicked off the forum. Your ad-hominem attacks on people that conduct real tests and show real data makes you just like the liberal censors at FaceBook, TikTok, CNN, etc., who suppress views contrary to theirs.

 

[OM617YOTA]

No, I am not. I am assuming that thew engineers who design equipment for a living, and the oil company engineers, know more about the subject than the end users do.

That may be a valid nuance.

It still doesn't apply. As I've said, the engineer's and company's goals will be different than the end user's goals.

 

[Lawless]

I once serviced an old Homelite XL-1 for a friend who bought it used cheap at an estate sale. The saw would literally not run fast enough to spin up the chain, not even high idle. I found out why when I pulled apart the muffler, it was choked up with so much carbon it only had a few pinholes left to pass the exhaust gas. It was a muffler like this.

View attachment 1034072

Almost every one of those vents were plugged solid. To this day I have never seen this amount of carbon build up in a muffler, I can only speculate as to how it got in that condition as it was impossible for the saw to cut wood. My best guess is that someone let it idle through a complete or even several tanks of gas with a rich mixture, wrong oil, bad gas or a combination of them.
I have several of these saws, and have never had any significant carbon buildup in any of their mufflers. I run Castrol 2t for the most part, I don't think it's anything special as oils go, but it has never plugged up a screen or baffle.
I suppose proper tuning is the key with any oil/mix ratio, personally it bugs me when a saw doesn't sound right, and the mix adjustment screwdriver is always close by during any cutting secession.

And the dead guy probably went to his grave thinking “that piece of junk won’t even turn the chain”

 

[Hermio]

That may be a valid nuance.

It still doesn't apply. As I've said, the engineer's and company's goals will be different than the end user's goals.

That MAY be true. However, at least for pro saws, it is in the manufacturers' best interest to make a product with high reliability, and that includes the oil recommendation, because pro users share their experiences, this forum being one example of where they do so. If a lot of people complained that their saws were wearing out quickly, that would hurt sales. Planned obsolescence may be the goal for consumer saws, but I doubt that would work for pro saws.

 

[Lawless]

Galvanizing doesn't stand up to salt exposure very well.

True.

Look at any hurricane flooded coastal building with metal studs after the drywall is taken down for insulation replacement.

 

[camel2019]

Again, it's all in the process. Galvanized (structural) steel can look good with minimal corrosion for decades if done properly. I see it all the time living on the Great Lakes.
If welds aren't properly treated that will be the first place to rust. If the back sides of panels or the insides of rockers weren't thoroughly coated they'll rot from the inside out. From my experiences dealing with American cars made in the 80's and 90's if they were galvanized it was either in limited capacity or their practices were poor.

I’m pretty sure ford dipped them after the shells were together. But galvanized not galvanized road salt don’t care I oil spray my vehicles.

 

[bwalker]

That MAY be true. However, at least for pro saws, it is in the manufacturers' best interest to make a product with high reliability, and that includes the oil recommendation, because pro users share their experiences, this forum being one example of where they do so. If a lot of people complained that their saws were wearing out quickly, that would hurt sales. Planned obsolescence may be the goal for consumer saws, but I doubt that would work for pro saws.

You have clearly never worked in Manufacturing... this just isn't how it works.

 

[bwalker]

That may be a valid nuance.



It still doesn't apply. As I've said, the engineer's and company's goals will be different than the end user's goals.

There is very often a disconnect between engineering, corporate and finance.

 

[bwalker]

Hermio, yes I do have doubts you are an engineer. If only because what you have said and and the logic you are using.

 

[JRM]

But galvanized not galvanized road salt don’t care

True to a point, especially in the auto sector - but for no other reason than cost. Not the case elsewhere if the coating is properly specd' for the environment. Galvanized coatings are sacrificial in nature when subjected to chlorides. The more corrosive the environment the heavier the coating requirement. ASTM has performed extensive testing and concluded galv coatings can reasonably last several decades when applied properly and at the correct thickness.
The other problem with the auto industry is the end user. Most aren't willing to maintain their finish to the necessary degree. A stone chip or a scratch requires immediate attention. The grey/white coating underneath (zinc) may not rust right away but will when it wears down (again, a sacrificial barrier) and then you are fighting a losing battle.
Then there are the chips/poorly applied coating that you don't see and are screwed anyhow. BWalker is right in the aspect that galvanized coatings aren't the best solution for auto, but until they start producing vehicles out of materials that won't oxidise regardless it is the most cost efficient means available.

I oil spray my vehicles.

I've been using Wool wax on my vehicles for probably 15 years. Plus a good healthy wash using a mixture of baking soda /water solution through my pressure washer in the spring to neutralize the under carriage.

 

[camel2019]

True to a point, especially in the auto sector - but for no other reason than cost. Not the case elsewhere if the coating is properly specd' for the environment. Galvanized coatings are sacrificial in nature when subjected to chlorides. The more corrosive the environment the heavier the coating requirement. ASTM has performed extensive testing and concluded galv coatings can reasonably last several decades when applied properly and at the correct thickness.
The other problem with the auto industry is the end user. Most aren't willing to maintain their finish to the necessary degree. A stone chip or a scratch requires immediate attention. The grey/white coating underneath (zinc) may not rust right away but will when it wears down (again, a sacrificial barrier) and then you are fighting a losing battle.
Then there are the chips/poorly applied coating that you don't see and are screwed anyhow. BWalker is right in the aspect that galvanized coatings aren't the best solution for auto, but until they start producing vehicles out of materials that won't oxidise regardless it is the most cost efficient means available.



I've been using Wool wax on my vehicles for probably 15 years. Plus a good healthy wash using a mixture of baking soda /water solution through my pressure washer in the spring to neutralize the under carriage.

My mustang goes in and gets drip less put on the under side and standard in the doors,rockers,quarter panels and other internal spaces not that I drive it in the winter. My trucks I do my self with a mix of bar oil and motor oil works well and doesn’t break the bank. I’m also a huge advocate of deep floor mats in the winter.

 

[rogue60]

That MAY be true. However, at least for pro saws, it is in the manufacturers' best interest to make a product with high reliability, and that includes the oil recommendation, because pro users share their experiences, this forum being one example of where they do so. If a lot of people complained that their saws were wearing out quickly, that would hurt sales. Planned obsolescence may be the goal for consumer saws, but I doubt that would work for pro saws.

Must be why husky out of nowhere now recommends 32:1 in it's bigger cc pro saws I wonder why? is it due to so many premature failures? Husky recommending more oil is beneficial for a saws longevity has officially blown the minds of the 50:1 crowd lol

 

[ZeroJunk]

Personally, my suggestion was do what the manufacturer recommends . LOL

 

[bwalker]

True to a point, especially in the auto sector - but for no other reason than cost. Not the case elsewhere if the coating is properly specd' for the environment. Galvanized coatings are sacrificial in nature when subjected to chlorides. The more corrosive the environment the heavier the coating requirement. ASTM has performed extensive testing and concluded galv coatings can reasonably last several decades when applied properly and at the correct thickness.

The other problem with the auto industry is the end user. Most aren't willing to maintain their finish to the necessary degree. A stone chip or a scratch requires immediate attention. The grey/white coating underneath (zinc) may not rust right away but will when it wears down (again, a sacrificial barrier) and then you are fighting a losing battle.

Then there are the chips/poorly applied coating that you don't see and are screwed anyhow. BWalker is right in the aspect that galvanized coatings aren't the best solution for auto, but until they start producing vehicles out of materials that won't oxidise regardless it is the most cost efficient means available.







I've been using Wool wax on my vehicles for probably 15 years. Plus a good healthy wash using a mixture of baking soda /water solution through my pressure washer in the spring to neutralize the under carriage.

True to a point, especially in the auto sector - but for no other reason than cost. Not the case elsewhere if the coating is properly specd' for the environment. Galvanized coatings are sacrificial in nature when subjected to chlorides. The more corrosive the environment the heavier the coating requirement. ASTM has performed extensive testing and concluded galv coatings can reasonably last several decades when applied properly and at the correct thickness.
The other problem with the auto industry is the end user. Most aren't willing to maintain their finish to the necessary degree. A stone chip or a scratch requires immediate attention. The grey/white coating underneath (zinc) may not rust right away but will when it wears down (again, a sacrificial barrier) and then you are fighting a losing battle.
Then there are the chips/poorly applied coating that you don't see and are screwed anyhow. BWalker is right in the aspect that galvanized coatings aren't the best solution for auto, but until they start producing vehicles out of materials that won't oxidise regardless it is the most cost efficient means available.



I've been using Wool wax on my vehicles for probably 15 years. Plus a good healthy wash using a mixture of baking soda /water solution through my pressure washer in the spring to neutralize the under carriage.

One of the problems with auto steel is the coating has to be thin enough and flexible enough to not be disturbed by the stamping process.
The coatings used no are well beyond simple galvanized steel.