mixing ratios for 2 stroke chainsaws

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"Mix oil is a higher BTU/gallon than gasoline, so having more of it in your mixture is going to mean your mixture has more potential energy.
This is always going to mean that for the same volume of mixture consumed, there is more potential heat in said mixture."

I took this quote from another thread. So, on one hand, my thinking about oil=heat was correct but I was incorrect in thinking that it noticebly affected running temperature. Thanks to all for your input and I hope everyone's winter will be mild!
ps. feel free to agree or disagree with my conclusion!!
The nice thing about adjustable jets….as soon as that added heat starts to raise/eliminate the 4 stroking sound out of the wood, a quick adjustment of the H jet brings it back down to where it was before
 
"Mix oil is a higher BTU/gallon than gasoline, so having more of it in your mixture is going to mean your mixture has more potential energy.
This is always going to mean that for the same volume of mixture consumed, there is more potential heat in said mixture."

I took this quote from another thread. So, on one hand, my thinking about oil=heat was correct but I was incorrect in thinking that it noticebly affected running temperature. Thanks to all for your input and I hope everyone's winter will be mild!
ps. feel free to agree or disagree with my conclusion!!
All depends on the surface vaporization point and the flash point of said oil. Plus ten other things going on inside your combustion chamber during the initial ignition point and it's time.
Plus fuel eddies and their location within the combustion chamber. You can create or nullify detonation with varying ratios or oil.
Go read a spec sheet and draw your own conclusions.
 
The nice thing about adjustable jets….as soon as that added heat starts to raise/eliminate the 4 stroking sound out of the wood, a quick adjustment of the H jet brings it back down to where it was before
....until you mill and that goes lean in about a minute.

Most miss that point Kevin so I thought it best to include that bit in your spot on post.

Fourteen minutes is a long time to run WOT. The saw is blubbering fat after it cools and the RPM swing can be as great as 2K from cool snowy mornings till the third tank goes in during "hot lapping" back to back runs on my mill.

This IS good stuff for others to learn.

Ymmv
 
The nice thing about adjustable jets….as soon as that added heat starts to raise/eliminate the 4 stroking sound out of the wood, a quick adjustment of the H jet brings it back down to where it was before
I edited the end of my last statement to read..."if you adjust the carb to compensate for the leaner condition":drinkingcoffee:
 
Yet here you are, coincidence, not
Just spreading my charm, like the rest of the folks here on these endless oil threads. Run what you like, ain't no one gonna change no ones mind . Please do try though, if you're inclined. 😂
 
Who here ran MX2T? It had no dye in it. More than once, I wasn't sure if I'd dosed my two stroke gas can with oil, or not. Preferring to run 16:1 than 128:0, I added another dose, and could only tell I was running 16:1 afterwards by the smell.

Ran fine, no smoke, no carbon build up.

With modern synthetics, you can run VERY rich ratios without any problems.
 
Absolutely zero point running 25:1 with a good quality synthetic mix oil. 32:1 is the heaviest I would go and only for a milling application. 40:1 is what I prefer for general use.
In general I agree. However, if you are milling or cutting big wood with a small saw there is nothing wrong with running something like 20:1.
 
Depends on the weather I'd say.
Humidity and ambient temps matter.
32-1 burns in my big saws on the mills in weather that is dry and above 80*F
32-1 pours out the exhaust around 50* with high humidity.
32-1 ain't worth a spit in the winter here because it won't burn.
I've run 55-1 in weather below 25* with zero adverse affects, same oil.
Same goes for the boat outboard motors. They are very temp sensitive compared to air cooled tools.
Tuning fat on the mill is a GIANT waste of power, fuel and oil, period imho.


Yet here you are, coincidence, not.


But it tastes so good 😱😂

When you actually start to spec the motor before the build, after break in and then again a good ways into your testing like maybe 2 or 300 hundred tanks later on the same oil mixed at a specific ratio on the same fuel, and that ain't easy, then you'll see a pattern of wear or not most don't.

25-1 certainly makes more power but you will taste it with a quality full synthetic brew.

One point to note that no one covers.
Detergents make or break an oil.
Thinner is better for mixed fuel. They did head in this direction for no reason. It's self explanatory if you understand fluid flow dynamics passing an orifice.
Extra oil not burned of the proper type will clean stuff you haven't even thought of yet.

Now remember I'm just some dumb piney over here who knows nothing. You'll want to ask an eggspert 😀 Plenty of them here and there with zero laboratory time in controlled tests so they really know what's up 😐

Nuff said.
I've. Ever had an issue with 32:1 pouring oil out the exhaust at 32:1 or any other ratio. I might have cut a but in cold temps too...
 
All depends on the surface vaporization point and the flash point of said oil. Plus ten other things going on inside your combustion chamber during the initial ignition point and it's time.
Plus fuel eddies and their location within the combustion chamber. You can create or nullify detonation with varying ratios or oil.
Go read a spec sheet and draw your own conclusions.
Flash point has zero to do with anything going inside your engine. End point does, but that value isn't normally provided.
 

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