If I was going to post content on YouTube I would be sure I knew what the hell I was talking about before I did.But isnt that the whole idea of youtube?
If I was going to post content on YouTube I would be sure I knew what the hell I was talking about before I did.But isnt that the whole idea of youtube?
I think I detect a little sarcasm!But isnt that the whole idea of youtube?
You must be new to the internet.If I was going to post content on YouTube I would be sure I knew what the hell I was talking about before I did.
Well in this case it’s not an opinion as the video speaks for Itself. I’m not interested in having an online pissing match or throwing insults around, instead what I’d appreciate is the opportunity to learn.If I was going to post content on YouTube I would be sure I knew what the hell I was talking about before I did.
If I was going to post content on YouTube I would be sure I knew what the hell I was talking about before I did.
You don't realise what's causing what you are seeing. As a result your conclusions are off.Well in this case it’s not an opinion as the video speaks for Itself. I’m not interested in having an online pissing match or throwing insults around, instead what I’d appreciate is the opportunity to learn.
If you or others are willing to share your advice, what way would you suggest I do the test differently to have a different outcome and prove myself / first video wrong? I’ll happily upload it and admit so if it’s the case.
Thanks for the reply. In my case, the only variable was the oil mix ratio changing.You don't realise what's causing what you are seeing. As a result your conclusions are off.
What I suggest you do is start thing about the variables.
I've said it before, snd I will saybit again. The vast majority ofbthese YouTube tests are co plate garbage.
What about the temperature of the engine? What about the type of oils used(some oils inhibit combustion)? What about the accuracy of the tach?Thanks for the reply. In my case, the only variable was the oil mix ratio changing.
The load on the engine was the same, the unleaded petrol the same, air temperature the same, run times the same, the time of day was even the same within a few minutes.
Rpm swing from 50:1 to 32:1 was 80 rpm.
I used it for years and actually was the guy who mentioned it to this site around 20 years ago.Who here ran MX2T? It had no dye in it. More than once, I wasn't sure if I'd dosed my two stroke gas can with oil, or not. Preferring to run 16:1 than 128:0, I added another dose, and could only tell I was running 16:1 afterwards by the smell.
Ran fine, no smoke, no carbon build up.
With modern synthetics, you can run VERY rich ratios without any problems.
The tach I used is one of, if not the most accurate digital tachs on the market, oil was Amsoil Sabee which people suggest is thicker than many which should show more affect. The engines were ran up to full operating temps before reading rpms. Have you got a link to that video you mention?What about the temperature of the engine? What about the type of oils used(some oils inhibit combustion)? What about the accuracy of the tach?
Then there is the fact your trying to draw conclusions from a sample of 1 with a result variability of 80rpm, which is less than peanuts.
There are others as well...
Regardless an honest to god sae test was done on this subject and the conclusions where the opposite of yours.
Ok, so what's the margin of error?The tach I used is one of, if not the most accurate digital tachs on the market, oil was Amsoil Sabee which people suggest is thicker than many which should show more affect. The engines were ran up to full operating temps before reading rpms. Have you got a link to that video you mention?
Yep.. and when bottom end bearings go in a bike you often don't catch it before the whole motor tears itself up.Im a former dirt bike guy who had 2 strokes.
If you run 32-1 in them the bottom end bearings last forever, if you run 50 or 60-1 your bearings go after 200 or so hours. It takes a long time for this to show up. Engine builders would do tear down and inspections to see how much oil was left in the crank case, with 50-1 the crank was pretty dry, with 32-1 it was oily.
I run 32-1 in my china saws to keep the bearings lubed up, the piston doesnt care what ratio you run.
You could also lunch bottom end bearings as a result.You could always do something bizarre like follow the owner's manual.
Yeah, and I'm sure the mix ratio or type of oil was the reason why. Yeah, I believe that.You could also lunch bottom end bearings as a result.
I think he meant launch, not lunch, but I could be wrong. Kinda makes a difference.Yeah, and I'm sure the mix ratio or type of oil was the reason why. Yeah, I believe that.
The Japanese bikes were all 32:1 except for Yamaha which speced 30:1.And every owner's manual I've seen from at least the last 30 years has stated to use a ratio of 40:1 at most. My 1996 KTM 300 EXC dirtbike manual says either 50 or 60:1, but it's less than 40:1.
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