MS250 vs MS261..not the kind of thread you think

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I appreciate your reasoning. I just find it easier to take apart the plastic and rebuild the clamshell than to split the case and reseat bearings, seals, and case gasket. I'm just weird that way I guess.
Same here, the average man without special tools can replace crank bearings and seals on a
Clam Shell, the so called pro saws with the split case will stop anyone without the special
tools in their tracks.
I can see the day when the Clam She’ll will take over, it’s easier to produce and every bit as reliable,
Only needs the frames to be beefed up a bit, if the same effort and light materials and frames were toughened
up to withstand pro use, what more would you want.
Modders might not be happy, but my take is buy a bigger saw if you need more power.
 
I wouldn't say say clamshell saws are just as reliable. A bigger saw = more weight, a ported saw can give you the power of a larger saw without the weight. They're other benefits to a mag case that can never be had with a clamshell. You can't even have proper case volume or proper transfer design with a clamshell.
 
I wouldn't say say clamshell saws are just as reliable. A bigger saw = more weight, a ported saw can give you the power of a larger saw without the weight. They're other benefits to a mag case that can never be had with a clamshell. You can't even have proper case volume or proper transfer design with a clamshell.

And there's no such thing as a gasket delete. Don't get me wrong, I do both pro saws and clamshells. I'm not pushing either one; they both have their place. I just don't have the usual aversion to working on clamshells.
 
I bought an MS250 about 6 years ago. It’s my first saw. The first one I had ever run and still the only one to this day that I have ran. I had to figure out how to run it on my own. So needless to say it’s somewhat “ragged” out. I can honestly say the only problems I have had from it were from operator error. As long as I don’t leave gas in it for long I can give it 2 pulls on full choke and it will cough and then start with 1 pull from half choke. I can’t really complain about it but then again I have nothing to compare it to.


Joseph Huckabaa
 
It's a decent saw.

But when you buy your next one, buy a pro saw. There is a (big) difference.

I was quite fortunate in that I bought a Jonsered 590 for my first saw. I had only run bigger pro saws like a 266xp, a 262xp, a 181, a 272 (borrowed for little jobs) before that one. Something like that, anyway?! The little 590 ran like a saw ran, to me.

I thought all saws ran like raped apes..

But no.
 
I've agree running pro saws are great, but my MS361 refuses to start anymore and has just been a thorn in my side since I got it as the more I fix on it the less it works. Even the greatest saw ever made, my 346xp, I ended up trading off as it felt heavier than a 372. It was a great cutter, but it felt so darned heavy I'd always reach for my MS250 instead.
 
My 2152 feel light as a feather..almost.??

It's the Jonsered equivalent of the 353, which is largely the same as your 346.

Yes, the MS250 is a decent feeling saw, I agree.:clap:

PS, the greatest saw ever made (50cc anyway) is a Jonsered 590

:chainsaw: :laugh:
 
W
I wouldn't say say clamshell saws are just as reliable. A bigger saw = more weight, a ported saw can give you the power of a larger saw without the weight. They're other benefits to a mag case that can never be had with a clamshell. You can't even have proper case volume or proper transfer design with a clamshell.
Whats to stop the designer getting proper port locations and sizing or volume in a Clam Shell,
sure some saws have stuffers that take up volume, and Magnesium is used in Clam Shells too.
 
W

Whats to stop the designer getting proper port locations and sizing or volume in a Clam Shell,
sure some saws have stuffers that take up volume, and Magnesium is used in Clam Shells too.
The transfers can't be feed from the case, because there is none.[emoji111] Husky had a different design at one point with a little block the bolted into a case, so you could have a regular bolt on cylinder. It was kind of a hybrid plastic case saw.
 
I think the main reason for the ms250 being what it is is cost, it and other saws
in the non pro category are made as well as they can be without encroaching
into the more pro orientated saw territory, there has to be pro grade for the
week in week out saw guys, and then there is the cheaper line that serve a completely
different purpose.
If a lot of cutting is expected then the more expensive pro grade MS261 would be
better in every way to the MS250, big power difference, and a stronger more durable
platform too. Like everything else it depends on the work you need to do, and how
quickly you need it done, I use the lightest saw possible when am at my own work,
it saves my back for when I need to use larger saws to get through paid jobs and make a few dollars.
 
I've agree running pro saws are great, but my MS361 refuses to start anymore and has just been a thorn in my side since I got it as the more I fix on it the less it works. Even the greatest saw ever made, my 346xp, I ended up trading off as it felt heavier than a 372. It was a great cutter, but it felt so darned heavy I'd always reach for my MS250 instead.
Sorry to hear your 361 is not so good, nothing as annoying as paying your money
and not getting a decent product. Unfortunately a lot of the recent saws have had their
issues, for whatever reason the older stuff was more dependable.
 
There's a lot to be said for the "feel" of a tool.

Powersaws are one of the tools that for me, "feel" matters. A lot.

The homeowner or "farm" saws I have run just don't do it for me. My Echo CS590 is the "farmiest" saw I own. It just barely makes the grade. Just. Barely. So I enjoy using it as a reliable tool. If I want to grin, I run something else.

I would buy an MS250. Used. Cheap. It would satisfy me like the Echo does. Like a decent tool, not a fun toy.
 
Clamshell engine design has nothing to do with the chassis - Echo made a clamshell in an alloy case (CS-510/520/530). Clamshell engines are inherently stronger than split case engines, as the crank is far better supported. They can be modded like any engine, with the exceptions being that it's harder to get tools inside due to the cylinder extensions, and reducing squish. Depending on the bearing & seal design that isn't always difficult, and I've done a couple.

The transfers can't be feed from the case, because there is none.[emoji111]
All transfers are fed from the case. Every Poulan clamshell has transfers that run straight up from the case. Many Echos have closed transfers. A clamshell cylinder can be cast with any port configuration that a conventional cylinder can, there is no difference from a manufacturing point of view. The inside shape of the case need not be any different.
 
Clamshell engine design has nothing to do with the chassis - Echo made a clamshell in an alloy case (CS-510/520/530). Clamshell engines are inherently stronger than split case engines, as the crank is far better supported. They can be modded like any engine, with the exceptions being that it's harder to get tools inside due to the cylinder extensions, and reducing squish. Depending on the bearing & seal design that isn't always difficult, and I've done a couple.


All transfers are fed from the case. Every Poulan clamshell has transfers that run straight up from the case. Many Echos have closed transfers. A clamshell cylinder can be cast with any port configuration that a conventional cylinder can, there is no difference from a manufacturing point of view. The inside shape of the case need not be any different.

We are talking how Stihl designs their clamshell saws, not all clamshell like designs, which is why I mentioned the husky. Many older saws like McCulloch used an all metal clamshell/block, totally different story than the little cap Stihl and some others use.[emoji111]
 
So I don't have the ms261 but I do have the ms261c. My father bought a ms250 to replace perhaps a 026 or a 028 (I can't remember which)

Anyway so my father asked me to come cut some rather large dead hardwoods down.

He says here use this. I asked where the other saw is. He said it stopped working and couldn't be fixed engine ceased.

So I fire it up no real issues. Maybe more effort than the old 026 but it fired. I got to cutting. I quickly realized it lacked the power that I felt was safe for the size tree I was cutting down. Really I needed a 20 inch bar vs the 18 he had and more power to knaw away at the wood.

I stopped mid cutting the tree and immediately went to a Stihl dealer and bought a ms261c with a 20 inch bar and a few new chains to go with.

I feel like I was told to not get yourself killed dropping wood, make sure you have a sharp chain and the power behind it to drop the tree.

Needless to say it is night and day difference. Super easy to start and had the power i needed to cut down the tree in a manner I wasn't questioning is this safe.

Considering the ms261c was more than double the cost of dad's saw I can see why. More performance with pretty much the exact same weight. Yes the 261 is a few oz heavier.

Is the 250 a capable saw sure for the occasional use. If your going to be clearing or cutting often the 261 is hands down better and worth every penny.

But if you are only cutting the occasional storm damaged limbs or trees of a diameter of 6 inches the 250 will be all that you ever need.

If your clearing land or cut alot for burning purposes. You may want to consider having the 261 at your side instead.

I dont know if the 250 would have been able to been put back together with some new parts after the wife drove over it 2x with the Subruban by accident.

Anywho happy safe cutting.
 
Used a 025 for 19 years, only saw I had for 17. Most of the firewood I cut is less than 12" and the biggest things were a muff mod and a 14" 3/8 lo-pro bar. 10 to 15 cords of wood and 10+ miles of riding trails kept clear every year. Never had any issues with it until recently other than its getting hard to start. Probably needs a new set of rings, compression is barely 100 but the cylinder is clean. Light and quick in small wood and a lot easier to carry clearing trails than the 372XP. Love the 372, but just to grab a saw for a job where I have to walk very far or a quick light job it is definitely my go to saw.
 
Reviving this thread I guess. I have a ms250 had it for 5 or 6 years it may not be a pro level saw but it is lightweight very mobile and has decent power. My ms250 has cut a lot of firewood I also use it to cut trees for other people. It doesn't wear me out like my ms362 does. A good sharp chain and its quite capable no it can't cut a 20inch red oak as fast as my ms362 but it's not that far behind maybe 3 seconds In 20inch wood. My biggest gripe with the 250 is it doesn't oil enough. I also bought a pl3314 poulan for a back up saw and it has cut almost as much firewood as the 250 and it's a only 4 or 5 years old. But I can tell the poulan has lost some power and compression.
 
Reviving this thread I guess. I have a ms250 had it for 5 or 6 years it may not be a pro level saw but it is lightweight very mobile and has decent power. My ms250 has cut a lot of firewood I also use it to cut trees for other people. It doesn't wear me out like my ms362 does. A good sharp chain and its quite capable no it can't cut a 20inch red oak as fast as my ms362 but it's not that far behind maybe 3 seconds In 20inch wood. My biggest gripe with the 250 is it doesn't oil enough. I also bought a pl3314 poulan for a back up saw and it has cut almost as much firewood as the 250 and it's a only 4 or 5 years old. But I can tell the poulan has lost some power and compression.
I believe that there is a high-volume pump available for it. They are easy to replace. I have not done mine yet, as I may be getting rid of it.
 
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