New 335 runs poorly, need help.

[brncreeper]

I recently purchased a 335 for trimming and tree marking. The saw is my third Husqvarna, the other two are a 350 and 3120 which work excellent! I did the muffler mod on the 350, and left the 3120 stock.

My problem with the 335 is poor acceleration, and poor idle. It is so bad that sometimes it dies when the throttle is opened.
I have tried adjusting the idle screw up and it helped a little, but it still wants to die.

I’m not looking so much for more power (ie muffler mod), just a responsive saw and good idle.

The saw is new, on its second tank of fuel (32:1). It has never run right.

Any thoughts?

 

[treeclimber165]

Take it back and let your dealer set it up properly.

 

[brncreeper]

huh?

 

[Lawrence Martin]

335xpt

bud right , cary it back to your dealer , and 32:1 sounds a bit rich it must just smoke like crazy i understand that you want to break it in with a little on the rich side but????. 50:1 is what you should be using.

Lawrence
play safe

 

[oakman]

sounds like a carb problem, if you can't adjust the mixture screws to clean it up. got to madsens website and read the sawtuning part. if it won't tune up, there is a problem in the carb/impulse line/fuel pickup somewhere. 50:1 is not enough oil in my opinion. not for a hard working everyday saw. that is to satisfy epa emissions. they don't care how long your saw lasts. there can be so many different conditions a saw gets operated in. i like a bit more safety margin. i don't think carbon build up is all that much of an issue with the modern oils we use today. run a good name brand performance oil at 32:1. it may save your saw if it happens to go lean on you when you got it wide open and don't realize it has a problem.

 

[brncreeper]

I printed the tuning procedure at Madsens website. Will have to digest it a bit. It’s very similar to the tuning procedure in the book that came with the saw. I didn’t have much luck with that either.

The LOW SPEED and HIGH SPEED jet screws are limited to 180 degrees clockwise and counterclockwise, why? Should their limit be defeated to tune it in?

 

[oakman]

the limiter caps are there due to epa regs, and also to prevent joe homeowner from running the saw lean and toasting it. the first thing i do with any new saw is remove the limiter caps. however, if you are not experienced with tuning a saw by ear, i.e. recognizing lean-rich running conditions it's probably best you don't. also that will void the saws warranty. i think in this case you should take the saw back and make 'em fix it to run right. it's possible the limiter caps were installed incorrectly at the factory. it's a simple fix, but you can't hardly get the caps off without breakin 'em, but the dealer sould be able to adjust it, and install new caps. after you gain experience, you should take 'em back off, cause i don't think they give enough range of motion to properly tune the saw to different conditions. temperature, humidity, air density, barometric pressure, all have an effect on how these little engines run. a lot of guys will tweak the carb once or twice through out the day for peak performance. i know i do. but i can't leave anything alone. always looking for that "edge". i do have several saws though, that never seem to need any adjustments at all. one saw is this strange lime green color, with some purple..............................................................

 

[mikey]

Treeclimber is giving good advise,some saws die young because someone leans them out just a bit too much.besides,if you tune wrong and it seizes guess what you dealer will say about the warrenty.

 

[brncreeper]

Oakman.
Yep, that fixed it. I removed both of the plastic limits on the H and L jets and was able to set it.

I cleaned the air filter ,changed the spark plug and filled the tank (with 32:1) first before messing with the H and L screws. Still had the same problem: Poor acceleration and would die when the throttle was blipped open.

I expected the plug to be black and wet. However it was just the opposite, tan colored and dry as a bone. I replaced it anyway.

What finally fixed it was the L jet screw. The factory setting was one turn out, and now it is 2 ½ turns out. I’m at 800 feet ASL.

I left the H screw jet at the factory setting of 2 ½ turns out.

Thanks for the tuning tips!

 

[glens]

I'm thinking that didn't <i>fix</i> it, but that it masked a very bad symptom.&nbsp; You really need to get the saw to your dealer and have him check it out.&nbsp; If you bought online to save a couple bucks then you'll just have to wait a few days while it ships back and forth, I guess.

Glen

 

[Crofter]

2 1/2 turns out to get low speed performance seems a bit far. You may have an air leak there which you are compensating for by opening out the low speed jet. If you are getting air in someplace it shouldn't, it is then bypassing the filtre ect.. I think I would not be happy till I eliminated this possibility.

Frank

 

[brncreeper]

glens.
That’s possible I guess. I have no problem taking it to a dealer and paying to have him check it.

I did purchase the saw online if that’s what your getting at.

I’ve re jetted a dirt bike with similar carburetor features: slow jet, Main jet, idle adjustment, and had good results. I simply felt I could tackle tuning a chain saw.

 

[treeclimber165]

Several years ago, many people were having carb problems with those lil Huskies. Supposedly the last couple years' models run better but I'm sure there are still a few gremlins running around on the 335XP assembly line.
Check out the air leak possibility, but don't believe it blindly. I was informed that my 026Pro had an air leak by several members here who refused to believe the poorly designed carb was at fault. Replaced the carb with a $35 used one and the saw runs like a scalded dawg now.

 

[glens]

I was only hinting at the possibility of what crofter suggested.&nbsp; <i>If</i> you're getting air into the equation from somewhere after the carburetor it would almost of a necessity be a source which would allow variable amounts under different conditions.&nbsp; That is a very unwanted situation and can toast your engine in short order.

I was indeed "getting at" the possibility that you'd bought online since you didn't immediately take it to the dealer to have him look at it.&nbsp; I'm not a fan of online sales of that nature.&nbsp; I'd think that it would either be someone who didn't have the overhead of a showroom and/or shop, so they could sell for less; or that it was a very large outfit that can sell for less because of the volume they buy.&nbsp; Either way it creates an unnatural imbalance against the local guy who can't compete because he's got the overhead or suffers a larger multiplier on the price sheet because of low volume.&nbsp; The etailer who doesn't maintain a brick and mortar presence in his own neighborhood should, and the large outfit should be happy with their own personal sales/service area.&nbsp; Just my opinion, of course.

Glen

 

[brncreeper]

An air leak is the farthest thing I would think would be the problem, especially on a new unit. I have read how air leaks in a two-stroke engine can be fatal.

Tomorrow I’ll bring the saw in to get checked.

Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[oakman]

well i don't have anything against dealers, although i think the service you can expect from one to another is as variable as the weather. i'm a yankee, so my motto is if your gonna do something, learn to do it right. if your gonna run chainsaws for a living, learn to tune and repair them. you can only learn by doing. yes you will make mistakes. learn from them.there is enough info on this forum alone to take you through the steps to leak test a crankcase. it ain't that hard. you don't need a slew of expensive tools to do it. make test plates out of plexiglass, aluminum, even wood. 1/4 inch aircraft ply from any hobby shop works great. block off the exhaust and intake ports, put piston at bdc. apply 8-10 psi compressed air. spray soapy water all over the thing and look for bubbles. yes you may have to pull flywheel and clutch. thats easy also. same procedure for a vacuum check. use a cheap automotive vacuum pump. pump up to 15- 20 inches, listen for leaks/apply soapy water. it's easy. use the gaskets for a template to make the block off plates. you can drill a small hole in one of the plates, or you can use the spark plug hole to apply air/vacuum. you can have it done in less time than it takes to pack the thing up. brncreeper i know your not afraid to tear something apart, else you wouldn't have touched the limiter caps. again, i ain't knockin you dealers, i'd be lost without parts, i just don't have time or patience to take a tool back everytime some little problem comes up. never did, never will. peace

 

[geofore]

how new

It may be new or was it built before 2002 and sat on the shelf till you bought it? If it didn't run right I'd check to see when it was built. They were troubled prior to 2003 with little quirks. Next if the gas and oil did not have a moisture problem, I'd take it to the local guy and see if he could get it to run through a tank of fuel and run right. You'll need to run about ten tanks to break it in but if you can't get it through the first two it needs to go to a dealer for a check up. You have a one year warranty, use it now. Send it back and ask for one that runs, not too many questions asked they replace it. I'd include a note to tell them what is wrong. Try the local dealer first, if he can't tweak it back to health he may replace it with one he has in stock, if he does he is your kind of dealer and you'll have to become his kind of customer. He might even tell you what was wrong. Use the warranty, the 335 is a good little saw. Mine was on the third tank of gas before I burpped it like a four stroker.

 

[glens]

Oak,

I agree that it's not rocket science to do that work, and that it's a good thing for a mechanically inclined person to learn, but the implication is that this is a new saw.&nbsp; That sort of work not only shouldn't <i>need</i> to be done on a new saw; it shouldn't <i>be</i> done apart from an authorized warranty shop IMO.&nbsp; I'd think the limiters being defeated would be bad enough on a saw brought in for warranty work.&nbsp; I know I'd be reluctant to stand behind a warranty claim made on a piece of equipment which has been obviously dicked-with very much, but then I guess I'm not a huge multi-national conglomerate that probably throws more stuff away in a day than I'd ever be able to own.

Glen

 

[oakman]

yea well if it was a new 20,000 truck, i would agree with ya ,take it back. but a couple hundred dollar saw, it ain't worth the trouble. but then again, i'm the stubbornest guy on the planet. i take all the warranty paperwork and toss it in the trash. i only keep the parts and exploded views. but it's gettin so manufacturers don't even give you those anymore. thats cause they don't want you to fix it yourself. just like your new car or truck. with the low pay that mechanics get nowadays, and the lack of schools not offering trades type classes, and the lack of interest young people have towards learning a trade or becoming a craftsman, i fear we will evolve into a society of pasty skinned, squinty eyed, button pushers, who, if get a nick on their finger, will instantly bleed to death, or if get some grease on 'em, will die a horrible death from contamination. maybe somethin like this.....................................................................................


http://www.ufocasebook.com/a402.jpg

 

[mikek711]

Tim,
I absolutley,positively agree with you 110%!
Mike.